Sloop "Via Così" (Fabrizio Prudenziati)

Ah yes, I think mine is also cyanoacrylate. I think it's always that in fast glues/ super glues,right?

But I have to be careful with the paper. Where the glue was applied to the paper, it got soaked really fast and left darker marks. So I'm going to apply it to the threads and search for a spray varnish for the whole boat. Luckily the people I gave the sloop as a present are still traveling with me


You could just paint them with clear paint. You would get the same protection. :)
 
You could just paint them with clear paint. You would get the same protection. :)
You are right. Did not thought about that.
I actually tried varnish, not spray but "paint" varnish for brushes. I wrote that somewhere else here. Did not work out very well on my first viper (siriusreplicas model), probably because I am used to thin out the paint when applying to figurines. Was too thin, soaked the paper. Now the viper has undulated wings:headbange::rolllaughing:

Will probably be too thick if not thinned. I will search for spray varnish.
 
I would use clear spray paint, spray the paint into a small paper cup, then stick your brush into the little that accumulates at the bottom of the cup. Don't add or thin it out, just paint the target surface, and you should be all set. As far as the Viper model, you could always print the needed parts, disassemble the model, and put on the new parts. That's the great thing about paper models. Use "Dope" that is used for "paper tissue" covered models, as that gets brittle and gives the tissue paper it's strength. I would apply it on the inside of any part.
:)
 
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Ah yes, I think mine is also cyanoacrylate. I think it's always that in fast glues/ super glues,right?

But I have to be careful with the paper. Where the glue was applied to the paper, it got soaked really fast and left darker marks. So I'm going to apply it to the threads and search for a spray varnish for the whole boat. Luckily the people I gave the sloop as a present are still traveling with me

Yes, super glue/fast glue/crazy glue/ etc can have that effect, but, depending on the manufacturer and quality of the product this can vary. The viscosity of these types of glues are diverse.
Liquid, super fine, gel and instant - (with activator,) etc..
Be aware that these glues are not really good for your health, especially sticking bits of yourself to yourself!!!!

For strengthening joints, you just need the tip of a toothpick to apply the glue and let capillary action do the rest!

I would recommend acrylic spray varnish for protection, applied in very thin coats at first, and building it up to the final coat.
Varnishes can destroy inks/prints and make them run badly, hence the need for very light, or 'dusting coats,' applied to the model first.
 
Yes, super glue/fast glue/crazy glue/ etc can have that effect, but, depending on the manufacturer and quality of the product this can vary. The viscosity of these types of glues are diverse.
Liquid, super fine, gel and instant - (with activator,) etc..
Be aware that these glues are not really good for your health, especially sticking bits of yourself to yourself!!!!

For strengthening joints, you just need the tip of a toothpick to apply the glue and let capillary action do the rest!

I would recommend acrylic spray varnish for protection, applied in very thin coats at first, and building it up to the final coat.
Varnishes can destroy inks/prints and make them run badly, hence the need for very light, or 'dusting coats,' applied to the model first.
Thanks, yes a few moments ago I treated the rigging with super glue and now I know next time I better where some safety goggles, for it caused tears in my eye:bulgeeye: Probably applied to much
 
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I would use clear spray paint, spray the paint into a small paper cup, then stick your brush into the little that accumulates at the bottom of the cup. Don't add or thin it out, just paint the target surface, and you should be all set. As far as the Viper model, you could always print the needed parts, disassemble the model, and put on the new parts. That's the great thing about paper models. Use "Dope" that is used for "paper tissue" covered models, as that gets brittle and gives the tissue paper it's strength. I would apply it on the inside of any part.
:)
Thanks. Sounds like a good method.
I started building some small simple models to try out different techniques.
But I don't know what you mean with that "dope". I just know one specific kind of the same name

:lolsign::smoker:


But I am not native english so I don't know what that word can also mean...
 
Balsa Wood framed Paper Airplanes are covered with tissue paper (a special kind) and when they are glued to the Balsa Wood frame of the aircraft and wings, they are pulled a tight as possible without tearing the tissue. Once dried, the tissue is "doped" ( Nitrocellulose Lacquer) which is a chemical that turns the tissue very hard and allows the plane to fly, and gives structural integrity to the Balsa Wood frame. I used to make lots of these when I was much younger. :)


Dope from AMAZON.jpg
 
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