B5 - Project Centauri Vorchan

When you work with Rhino, accept it's limitations, concerning other programs, you will find you can do most of the model, if not the whole model in Rhino. Texturing can be done in Photoshop, just export the files as .PSD files. There's may be wrong ways of doing it in Rhino, but no absolutely right way, there are many different ways however, some involve more steps, some less. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: bigpetr
bigpetr said:
Great work on your plugin Gandolfo. It gives very usable result compared to smash. But to cut this from paper would be dificult to me. And cuts seem to randome so I am not sure how smooth it will look when assembled. From this standpoint, I would probably prefer Zathros strips solution.

I would personaly do it as plane and boat designers do it (Zathros already demonstrated on a boat hull few post earlier) - I would remodel it: cut it perpendiculary and connect by stright sections, so it unfolds easily:
View attachment 159623

I understand that you are trying to avoid remodeling the part and work with souce mesh directly.

I am looking forward to see some test build of your unfold part. I hope you proove me wrong.
Click to expand...

That' another miss-understanding, it can also be cut into strips! If I had the time I would do a step by step. It is actually exactly the same thing as post#193 and #195 .. but it is NOT a poly mesh but triangulated mesh that can be textured and manipulated outside of Rhino! Think of it as Beta -.001 in a new Beta progression. When I say Textured, I am looking for a Photo-Realistic approach ! I love what other people do and I am not knocking anyone's work but most models are NOT textured just color filled!
ie:
coloredHydrantColor.jpg textured!Hydrant.jpg 90+% of Models are only color filled with a bit of gradation and few lines and such, and that is JUST FINE ! but it is not what I WANT! I WANT QUALITY! or it's not worth doing! ( I MY OPINION)

Now saying that, doesn't mean I will succeed! I am only trying to obtain that level, with programs that do NOT want to cooperate and are not designed to function in that capacity! I still have the model, cut up and flattened and at any point when it seems that all avenues are dead-ends, I can revert to the what the rest of the fine model makers do and just color in this thing with some fills and gradation and let the builder paint it.

It's like almost all aircraft models, why have a flat color and a few lines and rivets when with a little work you can actually make the model look like it just flew in from a sorte,
Hotmetal.jpg Rant done! Got tons to work on...

PS. I think that if you go with the thinner strips it will be a mistake. Strips OK but not hairline, if it is to be ONLY for a few of us , fine, but for the community, NO WAY!
Even the last pix from post #191 is on an A4 sheet and scales out to about 6" just for the top of the head piece! (And it alone will be extremely difficult to build, it needs WORK!!! ) That would make the rest about 1 meter long at a rough guess, and cutting to fit on A4 sheets would push pages upwards to the 30's, again at a rough guess. The head is going to determine the overall size of this, therefore it has to be as large as feasible and as small as build-able and there is a VERY fine line there . The rest can be interconnected between sheets if necessary but that needs to be as limited as much as possible as it leads to problems with alignment and printer error and all manner of headaches! There is going to be a GREAT deal of COMPROMISE and SACRIFICE, in size and smoothness, to make this a model that the community at large can build! If it was just for the 4 of us that have shown an interest, I would have gone with Zathros's idea and just built the thing already!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sky Seeker and bigpetr
Another beta test..I think a solid chunk that can be cut and molded to the formers will be a better bet (?) have to give it a try, far easier to cut, butt edges together and add typing paper to the back as solid tabing/ laminate, ( Just in case I forgot to mention it I DON'T DO TABS!!! ) so don't expect any!

Top2.png again .png on an a4 sheet
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sky Seeker, spaceagent-9 and zathros
I'd expect you to be the last person to ever use a Tab. I wish I could do the texturing you mention, but that is far from my abilities. I would need to be taught. I seem to be getting more dense though. My method would more suited to someone who was going to paint the model afterwards, and not rely on printing color. Something I wish more people would do. Painted models seem to look more real, to me anyways. ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sky Seeker and Gandolf50
I am 100% with you on this, Gandolf. I also love model looks being used vs "brand new color filled". Textured model is definitely quality step up from color filled, but it is still texture printed on paper. From my point of view top quality in terms of best possible reality depiction can be achieved only by painting and weathering it (As you show us on your beautiful Scammell:)).
 
  • Like
Reactions: zathros and Gandolf50
bigpetr said:
I am 100% with you on this, Gandolf. I also love model looks being used vs "brand new color filled". Textured model is definitely quality step up from color filled, but it is still texture printed on paper. From my point of view top quality in terms of best possible reality depiction can be achieved only by painting and weathering it (As you show us on your beautiful Scammell:)).
Click to expand...

Thank You Bunches!!
Yep I would rather paint a model than rely on others to mess it up with false colors, I would rather they leave it alone and just give me a b/w like Renova does! Perhaps that is why they do it, have you looked at there color versions of their models...acckkkk !!! Most of them are almost impossible to build for me the colors are so bad, like GPM's, they HAVE to be painted over to cover up that mess! Granted this will still be a printed texture, but it won't be GPM's thats for sure, but it may end up Renova B/W before all things are said and done! ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: bigpetr
It is amazing to see so many models that are so well built, but with white edges like gleaming out with the models screaming, "I'm made out of paper!!". :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sky Seeker
zathros said:
It is amazing to see so many models that are so well built, but with white edges like gleaming out with the models screaming, "I'm made out of paper!!". :)
Click to expand...

Ah yes the old "edge problem" somewhat cured with air brushing or magic marker BEFORE assembly. Still painting looks better.

Sky Seeker
:tank:
 
  • Like
Reactions: zathros and spaceagent-9
I have to agree. I think the advent of home printers combined with computers brought a lot of people back into or into the hobby. The next step is now to make a paper model, but to make a miniature of the subject, no matter what it takes. That does take some of the fun out of it for the majority, who just wish to have a 3D representation they can hold, to get the feel of what they are looking at. I also think that those who make models, that are thrown, likes gliders, or equipped with R/C/ may put more effort into the electronics, that's understandable. I would not expect DORIS, of model ship building fame, to throw one of Real Gold Flake plated tall ships into the sea to watch it sink. For each their own way. The wide range of interests brings it's rewards to everyone , those that do, and to those an applaud. What a community. :)

Sovereign of the Seas by DORIS: http://i-am-modelist.com/2012/01/09/sovereign-of-the-seas-1637/

Sovereign_9.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: spaceagent-9, Sky Seeker and bigpetr
As far as Rhino and strips, it would have to be for a larger ship. I think this part would be best water formed, making the plug would be some work, 2 part epoxy would be the way I go, sanding to finish shape. The water forming the paper. This would require the use of pigment Ink, and the least amount of water that you need, and then more than likely, you would have to paint the part. I don't think everyone has airbrush tools, I don't, I could paint a car with what I have, but that is the scale I usually work in these days, (though it's been a while). Still, careful use of Spray Paint and a fine brush can yield wonderful results. :)
 
zathros said:
I have to agree. I think the advent of home printers combined with computers brought a lot of people back into or into the hobby. The next step is now to make a paper model, but to make a miniature of the subject, no matter what it takes. That does take some of the fun out of it for the majority, who just wish to have a 3D representation they can hold, to get the feel of what they are looking at. I also think that those who make models, that are thrown, likes gliders, or equipped with R/C/ may put more effort into the electronics, that's understandable. I would not expect DORIS, of model ship building fame, to throw one of Real Gold Flake plated tall ships into the sea to watch it sink. For each their own way. The wide range of interests brings it's rewards to everyone , those that do, and to those an applaud. What a community. :)

Sovereign of the Seas by DORIS: http://i-am-modelist.com/2012/01/09/sovereign-of-the-seas-1637/

View attachment 160517
Click to expand...

Wow to think that it took 2 years to build that ship it's amazing!:surprise::surprise: What a work of art!:bowdown: It's a wonder that such ships were actually made at one time.

Thanks for sharing Z!:Drinks:

Sky Seeker
:tank:
 
DORIS and I have corresponded personally. She is/was a High School teacher. I have no idea how she had to to make the fleet of ships she has. They are going to museums,, and that is real Gold leaf on the sculpting she did. She is so very nice, beautiful, and quite the Master Ship Builder/Painter/Fabricator, Teacher, the list goes on and on...................... :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: spaceagent-9
She should be famous world round. She is brilliant! Some people get famous, and they are a drain on and of society! :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sky Seeker
Last edited:
Just adjust the back edge to a gentle curve on top and pop the back out slightly to give the rear a bit of a curved rear instead of a flat back as shown.

upload_2017-11-5_20-48-14.jpeg

The right rear side needs to bowed towards the viewer. A square should be made around the rear rectangular opening, scored, and bent to give the rear an outwardly bowed appearance.
upload_2017-11-5_20-48-43.jpeg

Sky Seeker
:tank:
 
Have not done much, but have not stopped still working from time to time..on my version..Conclusion...Going BIG! Going Black and White! You want color ..paint it! ( just the way it is going to be !)
Went back to original concept and in the process of re-working the entire mesh! Head object is just about there, except for the arrangement of the parts and the details. Work has started on the important part, which is the skeleton of the beast, which will allow the skin to be formed over it ( ship building 101 ), will make things easier, stronger and allow the sections to go together!
Options ..Yes! You wand gribbles they are there ..you don't you don't!
Lines are smoother and simpler but with the same over-all feeling of original.
Proto-BetaVer4.jpg with gribbles

2Proto-BetaVer4.jpg without

L8ers...
 
  • Like
Reactions: bigpetr, Sky Seeker, Rhaven Blaack and 1 other person
Either going big, or solid, is the only way to do this piece. Going big gives you the option of water forming pieces, or forming the with your thumb, dowel, etc. Going small would be better done with a frame work, and maybe two part epoxy sanded to shape.

Looks good both way, though I like the "gribbles " better. ;)
 
Gandolf50 said:
Have not done much, but have not stopped still working from time to time..on my version..Conclusion...Going BIG! Going Black and White! You want color ..paint it! ( just the way it is going to be !)
Went back to original concept and in the process of re-working the entire mesh! Head object is just about there, except for the arrangement of the parts and the details. Work has started on the important part, which is the skeleton of the beast, which will allow the skin to be formed over it ( ship building 101 ), will make things easier, stronger and allow the sections to go together!
Options ..Yes! You wand gribbles they are there ..you don't you don't!
Lines are smoother and simpler but with the same over-all feeling of original.
View attachment 161670 with gribbles

View attachment 161671 without

L8ers...
Click to expand...

Looking forward to seeing the paper build of your version. I prefer the version without the gribbles, it's closer to the shown in the show. Still both versions look pretty good.

Sky Seeker
:tank:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom