BSG Defender

[Rhaven Blaack]

I use one of these:

It's for leather, but it works on paper, thin cardboard, and plastic as well. What I like is that it's got several different sizes of holes.

I recently got one of these as well. I will be having fun with it when I start making 40K models.

 

[Sky Seeker]

I use one of these:


It's for leather, but it works on paper, thin cardboard, and plastic as well. What I like is that it's got several different sizes of holes.

Kjev,

Thanks for letting me know about the hole puncher! I completely forgot that I still had a hole puncher for leather.

Now if I can only find the right size.. ...

The one I've got "sort of" punches a hole through the paper. If you laminate the paper before you punch it it is quite hard to punch. Punch your features first then laminate. Although I did get it to work the other way.

Thanks again for the advice.

Sky Seeker
:tank:

 

[Sky Seeker]

The best way to get rid of white lines on parts that are greebled on is to sand the parts at an angle so that when placed onto the surface, only the painted/printed, surface shows, the "white' edge having been sanded back, and also providing a much better surface for glue to adhere too. Even if you color them in, you get a part that looks added on. You put the piece on the model, and whatever is white gets sanded off. If you sands it real thin, it will look like there is no line at all.

Have emory board will travel. Thanks for the advice Z.

Sky Seeker
:tank:

 

[Sky Seeker]

I (myself) use watercolour paints and a "dry brush" technique. (*NOTE* They have to be TRUE water colour paints for this particular technique to work properly)
I start out with mixing the colours that I need. I then allow the paint to dry into a "cake". Once I have the dry paint "cakes", I will dip the paint brush in water and re-activate the paint. I will only get a very small amount of paint on the brush. Then I very lightly paint the edges (BEFORE I glue the parts together).
Once properly mastered, this technique will give you excellent results (even with very thin paper, like printer paper).

Rhaven,

I'm going to have to try your technique some time. That's a really good idea.

Thanks master builder!

Sky Seeker
:tank:

 

[zathros]

The tabs are good as a visual aid to show how the parts line up. Even of the first models I purchased, I cut them off. I had designed my own models before I even knew people sold such things and understood that for parts to be flush, they must be on the same plane. As you say, everyone learns a different way, but in this hobby, it is better for all the time and effort, to get it right the first time. There is nothing worse than seeing a model where all except for covered white unpainted edges, it looks great. The same goes for ships. I have seen so many that had the skins pulled too right, and nothing over the former edges to spread the tension from the former edge, so the hull ends up like a ship that needs a few meals, the skeleton effect.

Right technique or wrong, they take a lot of time to make, mine as well go for the right way.

 

[Kjev]

Kjev,

Thanks for letting me know about the hole puncher! I completely forgot that I still had a hole puncher for leather.

Now if I can only find the right size.. ...

The one I've got "sort of" punches a hole through the paper. If you laminate the paper before you punch it it is quite hard to punch. Punch your features first then laminate. Although I did get it to work the other way.

Thanks again for the advice.

Sky Seeker
:tank:

I recently got one of these as well. I will be having fun with it when I start making 40K models.

I have found that if I put a second sheet of paper underneath the one I am punching, my hole puncher will go completely through the first layer, and I get nice clean rivets. I imagine if one was careful enough (and I ain't!) you could get rivets as well as a nice piece with a lot of neatly lined up round holes to use for screen of some sort.

It does tend to make cardstock (like cereal boxes) flake apart, however.

As for the 40K rivets, I saw a suggestion (either in their Imperial Armour Modeling Masterclass book for using the resin beads from a water softener for rivets. The process is:

1. Mark where you want to place the rivets. Be neat, make sure they line up, blah blah blah.
2. With your CITADEL brand pin vice (because apparently no one else makes them in merry old England), drill a slight indent at each rivet site.
3. Glue the beads into place with superglue.

But before anyone tears apart their water softener, I used to work for Culligan, and our office/workshop had a bucket in back full of used resin. I got it for free. Now if I could just remember what I did with it...

 

[Sky Seeker]

Hey everyone here's another post. I've started adding some more features to the engine nacelles.

The parts that are added are for the top left side of the left engine. It features a lot of little circles and square sections with a lot of rectangular little cut outs. I was thinking that some of the little square cut outs (see below the circles) could be made into port holes for a future project, but they didn't turn out as expected and were very flimsy.

Thanks Kjev for the hole puncher idea!rinks: As you can see I've put it to good use.


Square sections separated and trimmed.


Sections mounted to the model.
When textured the circles seem to be more off center than I originally thought, :robot3:but then looking at the original printed texture that's just how it looks.:robot2: Texturing sometimes enhances some features that weren't readily apparent before.

In the mid section of this model is a little mini nacelle section that is slightly off center near the front. :frak: If there is a way to remove or change it without damaging the model any guidance would be welcome.

Have a great day and thanks for stopping by!

Sky Seeker
:tank:

 

[Rhaven Blaack]

This is coming together beautiful!!!
I really like the detail!!!

 

[Sky Seeker]

This is coming together beautiful!!!
I really like the detail!!!

Hey thanks master builder! Do you have any ideas about what I can do with that center small nacelle portion that's not aligned right in the front?

Sky Seeker
:tank:

 

[Rhaven Blaack]

I would suggest working all sides together (inch be inch). I know that it is a bit more difficult, but it is worth the effort.

 

[zathros]

Your greebled parts do not look like add-0ns. They look like part of the ship sticking out!! Excellent!!

 

[Kjev]

You're welcome for the hole punch idea. I'm glad it helps. This is one incredible model!

 

[Revell-Fan]

In the mid section of this model is a little mini nacelle section that is slightly off center near the front. :frak: If there is a way to remove or change it without damaging the model any guidance would be welcome.

I would simply cut the part off (as close to the surface as possible), cover the scar up by glueing a second print of the area in question over it and attach a new version of the corrected part.

 

[Sky Seeker]

You're welcome for the hole punch idea. I'm glad it helps. This is one incredible model!

Hey Thanks Kjev! Looking forward to seeing some more of your Genet Models.

Sky Seeker
:tank:

 

[Sky Seeker]

I would simply cut the part off (as close to the surface as possible), cover the scar up by glueing a second print of the area in question over it and attach a new version of the corrected part.

RF,

I'll try to implement that. This particular part gave me fits before and this was actually my second attempt at it. I thought that I had it was straight until it was glued in place. It's really just one part that needs to be corrected to make it straight across. It addition to cutting it out, I could wet it down, get it to collapse a bit on one side, cut that out, and laminate the top with a new printed section.

Another option could be that messed up section could have "battle damage" I could rough it up a bit.

Sky Seeker
:tank:

 

[Sky Seeker]

Your greebled parts do not look like add-0ns. They look like part of the ship sticking out!! Excellent!!

Z - Hey thanks master builder! I still have a lot to do and some of the sections need to be penciled in a little bit more to remove some glare.

There's some raised laminated sections to build on the sides yet, but most of the parts (on this side) have been cut out.

It's not over yet.

Sky Seeker
:tank:

 

[zathros]

When removing added on parts, always treat the "Hull" as untouchable. You can always make the replacement slightly larger, covering any flubs. Do all the cutting with a very sharp Ex-Acto blade, working your way towards the glue, If you have a heat gun, heat will soften must glues, just don't get it too hot or "POOF!".

 

[spaceagent-9]

thats very hard work, im glad to see you doing such demanding work, very good!!

 

[Sky Seeker]

When removing added on parts, always treat the "Hull" as untouchable. You can always make the replacement slightly larger, covering any flubs. Do all the cutting with a very sharp Ex-Acto blade, working your way towards the glue, If you have a heat gun, heat will soften must glues, just don't get it too hot or "POOF!".

Z - Hmmm heat gun eh? You're right about the POOF part. Don't know if my skills with a heat gun are that good and this is such a SMALL piece. But, Dr. Seeker knows what to do with the patient. :exterminate: A minor surgery is in order. Time to slice & dice - oh so nice!

Thanks for the advice Z! I'll try not to overcut too much.

Sky Seeker
:tank:

 

[Sky Seeker]

thats very hard work, im glad to see you doing such demanding work, very good!!

Spaceagent,

The demanding part is just coming up. I get to do what I did above another 3 more times!:robot3: I swear I'll be ready for a special jacket with buckles and a room with soft padding when this is over.

Sky Seeker
:tank: