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    My Scenic Ridge so far

    Those Southern "Tuxedos" look great against the green and granite. Nice progess, Jim! Now we need to get together to bug Trainworx to do a Southern caboose kit like their Rio Grande kit. ---jps
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    Show and tell Customs.

    The Rushville Rocket, huh? Well, for better or worse, warts and all, I am a fan too. This particular engine came factory painted and numbered from Atlas. The paint I used to touch up the details and DB blister was Modelflex engine black, and Polly Scale Acrylic reefer white. I normally prefer...
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    Show and tell Customs.

    Hey now... Why are these HO engines popping up on this N-scale thread? No fair! ;) Here is the modified tank with the scratchbuilt parts before painting: I started with a factory painted Atlas unit, and i used a DB blister from an "early GP38" to get the right blister: The short hood...
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    Show and tell Customs.

    Here is one of my custom engines, a Southern GP38. Some of the more unique items about this prototype (which is what I assume you're talking about) that I wanted to replicate are the small fuel tank, the high-hood, the air filter box, the hood vents, and the arrangement of the horns and...
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    Does it exist?

    Hey Brad, To answer your question directly, NO. Unfortunately, there are no commercially available GP10s, or any other rebuilt Geeps in N-scale, for that matter. The problem is that there are numerous different ways that Geeps were rebuilt, and different rebuilders called them different...
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    Brass Wire for Handrails?

    Thanks for the compliments! For the GP16 (unpainted model), the wire on top of the nose is Detail Associates' .006" brass wire (Walthers #229-2501). The wire used for the handrails is Creative Model Associates' .008" Phosphor-Bronze wire (Walthers #363-1100), which is a little "stiffer", less...
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    Brass Wire for Handrails?

    As far as wire width, I haven't seen .005" wire readily available, the smallest I've seen is .006". Take a look at the picture below for an example: The handrails are .008" wire (I found .006 to seem just a little too thin). The drop grab irons on the front and side of nose are BLMA...
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    uncoupling problem

    First, how long of a car is this, and does it have truck or body mounted couplers? Is there a magnet or something nearby that might cause a magnetic uncoupler to unlatch? Does it uncouple from every car, or has it uncoupled from the same car so far? What about your track, does it dip or...
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    painting and detailing

    The BLMA website has some how-to videos on installing their parts, it might give you an idea, anyway. www.blmamodels.com Look under Tips and Tricks, and the videos are on the bottom. ---jps
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    Super Detailed Locomotives

    One thing I forgot to mention: For the Atlas GP7s, 9s, 30s, and 35s, I have found that with the larger coupler box of the 903, you may need to remove one coupler box whenever you want to get the body shell off of the mechanism. Not so with the GP38s/40s. I paint brush with Floquil's acrylics...
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    Super Detailed Locomotives

    For the MT 903s and 905s (a.k.a. "Assembled 903s"), it's not very difficult. For an Atlas GP7 coupler pocket, you shim out the pocket with .020" styrene on the top and bottom, and .010" styrene on the sides. Then using the small drill bit from MT's 00-90 drill and tap set, drill a hole in the...
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    Super Detailed Locomotives

    Trim the grab irons with a wire cutter before you install them. ---jps
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    Super Detailed Locomotives

    I like that paint scheme. The medium green will be a better color than something like engine black for showing off the effort you are putting into the separate details. ---jps
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    laying ballist

    Echoing Will's post, I myself will ballast some 3-4 feet (max) at a time, and while the glue is still wet, I will go back and not only remove ballast from the sides of rails, but also groom it a little to get the shape and effect I want. So as not to gouge the painted rails too much, I use wood...
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    Super Detailed Locomotives

    May I suggest that you then first practice on an older, or secondary engine first? Just like you would want to get an old train-set car to practice painting, decaling, and weathering techniques, you can get practice on an older engine, or even a car. Or, just order a body assembly set from Atlas...
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    Super Detailed Locomotives

    Actually, it seems to me that the majority of N-scalers are appreciative of the work that goes into such projects, but don't see or feel a need to get to that level of detail. These engines certainly are fragile, and you have to keep in mind the fact that you will need to occasionally take the...
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    Super Detailed Locomotives

    Here two in-progress shots, which show the details themselves more clearly: I use GMM's diesel detail set for windshield wipers and cab sunshades, BLMA grab irons and lift rings, JnJ MU hoses, Sunrise Enterprises horns, antennae, bells, and speed recorders, MT Z/Nn3 couplers, and GMM's...
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    Idea in the works

    It is definitely a great layout, a great result, and an inspired design. Like all small layouts, this design does have some compromises. The curves are very sharp (I remember seeing pictures of the layout with cars on it, which really accentuates the tight curves), and some of those grades...
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    How can I build this?

    Are you trying to get a close replica, or something just generally like it to get the "feel" of an area? If you are simply trying to get the "feel" of the area, something close (whether via a kit or using modular pieces) with the right colors goes a looooong way. ---jps
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    GP30 by Atlas?

    For those who don't want to do their own kitbashing, in the past few months, I've noticed that there is one fellow who offered GP30 High Hood cab and noses (one piece) on eBay. And another fellow regularly offers complete GP30 High-Hood bodies. Search under N-scale, then "GP30", and you'll...
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