Weathering Your Card/paper Model

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fluffy jet propulsion

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Apr 20, 2015
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Hi ya guys,
Just need some insight from all of you regarding on how to weather your model,as you would do to any plamo,or other kits,
some say pencil colour work best,but if the model is white,let say a jet fighter,would you still use pencil colour or just normal pencil ?
come share your thoughts and insight about this,

Pondering the posibilities,

Fluffy
 
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Gandolf is the weathering guru around here, there are many others also. I feel pencils add an unreal texture as the sit on top on the paper. I guess it depends how well you pull it off, and if you like the way it comes out. Pictures aren't the same as holding the model in your hand. ;)
 
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Zathros Sir,
Well if that the case,then an experiment is a must !!!,will let you guy know the progress,build snuichi senpai vf-1 minmay guard gerwalk along with booster/supa paks,
 
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OK... I am going to assume that when you refer to colored pencils you are talking about using them to color your edge-seams to match the printed parts. This is a good technique.
But if you want to use them to color your model, bad idea ( Like @zathros said )!

Most of the weathering techniques out there are for plastic/resin models that have been painted first then weathered. In card, you have to ADAPT them to fit the material.
I would advise anyone to first seal the printed sheets before you even start the model, using a matte acrylic from a spray can something like Crystal Clear Matte Acrylic Laquer. Spray BOTH sides with enough that the sheet starts to become TRANSLUCENT, NOT RUNNY! Doesn't take much and will give a nice primed surface and help to resist water base paints from soaking in and warping the sheets. It will also allow you to WORK what-ever material you are weathering with or technique used... say for instance a wash to add depth and to bring out details... you need time to apply the wash and WIPE off where it isn't needed if the sheet isn't sealed it will just soak in.

If it is a white and black model ( no color ), washes are your best bet. Scribe over lines and greebles, then a VERY THIN wash of black to darken recessed areas ( scribed lines ), or used colored washes to paint over white areas. Wash should be barely visible when first applied and layer it till you get the effect you want ( you'd be surprised how the most diluted wash will stand out on pure white)!

Holler if you need help... it's a bit difficult without something to look at...
 
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Gandolf50, this is a neat bit of advice -- I have no idea about washes. Is there a product you have in mind, or would you use black (or insert other color) watercolors super diluted as a wash?
 
snowmanX said:
Gandolf50, this is a neat bit of advice -- I have no idea about washes. Is there a product you have in mind, or would you use black (or insert other color) watercolors super diluted as a wash?
Click to expand...

I don't buy much of anything if I don't have to. I use a Half a DROP of Liquid Acrylic, and a larger drop of Matte Medium along with enough water to make it transparent ( NOT the whole drop, but off to the side I allow my brush to NICK the drop of Acrylic and bring that over to the Medium and then use only water or another NICK to get the transparency I want...then with another brush I paint the area I am weathering and quickly dab the high spots with a soft paper-towel or another larger brush.. if it is too dark, a bit of water to flush it, too light, wait and do over again till right.

When I say Transparent, I mean, when applied you should just see it in the recessed areas, washes are best layered.

Plastic modelers use INK thinned with Alcohol Or Oil Based Colors with thinner and do the same, but I don't recommend that for just starting out!!
 
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As Gandolf50 said: Most weathering solutions are made for plastic models - so is the mentioed "tamiya weathering master".
But as Gandolf50 also said: seal the paper before weathering then also this kind of weathering works.thumbsup
 
Sealing the paper at any point will keep the moisture out of the paper and keep it from warping from many years. :)
 
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