Weathering armor, 4 chipping techniques

Sudsy

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Just watched this on YouTube today at lunch. Now, to apply to the paper armor models...
 
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carlos filipe

carlos filipe
I moderately weather my paper models. During the assembly process, I apply cyano glue (super glue) on the surfaces, especially where the joints are not well done. This way it is possible to sand the model. The same applies to the painting and weathering. Cyano glue kinda "plastifies" the paper. An example, the pantherturm in 1/25 (design by Michal Rafalski). Visible the sanding on the barrel. Dry pigments can be applied. The weathering process, in my opinion has to follow a different approach from plastic.HPIM3373.JPG
 
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carlos filipe

carlos filipe
Another example of paper handling. In this project (blue whale from Canon (reduced 6 times if I remember well...) I applied cyano glue in order to be able to putty and sand the model to hide the joints. In the end, I airbrushed the model. I believe that after so much putty I could even use the wash technique.acrylic_medium_gel-01.jpgadjusting-02.jpgairbrushing-02.jpgairbrushing-03.jpg
 
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Gandolf50

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I use the cyano technique for tires..allows you to "round" over the edges for a nice translation fro tread to side-wall.
Also for any hinge or pivot joints, such as tail-gates and door hinges... "plasticizes" them to stand up to being moved around a lot...
I don't cover the whole thing in it unless it is a petal-type joint, such as a rounded fender or headlight...

Most of all the weathering techniques for plastic will work..if you spray down your pages before cutting with acrylic lacquer...which I have mentioned a ton of times...stops glue from warping and soaking into the parts as well as gives a good "tooth" to give the paint job something to grab to...

The only one I had trouble with was the salt technique..salt just gets blown off during the second airbrush pass using it for the chipping/rust.

For rust...I use actual rust I scrape off of some old iron out on the porch, I have several chunks and they all produce a different reddish color from chocolate brown to reddish-orange ... as well as steel wool in a vinegar base in a small jar ... works really well...
 
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micahrogers

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All are great techniques for weathering, I use dry pigments, and even powdered artist chalks, blend the color you want.
 
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micahrogers

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The only one I had trouble with was the salt technique..salt just gets blown off during the second airbrush pass using it for the chipping/rust.
With the salt technique you have to really turn down the pressure on your airbrush, 5 to 10 psi max, and pull back from the surface a bit.
 

carlos filipe

carlos filipe
I use the cyano technique for tires..allows you to "round" over the edges for a nice translation fro tread to side-wall.
Also for any hinge or pivot joints, such as tail-gates and door hinges... "plasticizes" them to stand up to being moved around a lot...
I don't cover the whole thing in it unless it is a petal-type joint, such as a rounded fender or headlight...

Most of all the weathering techniques for plastic will work..if you spray down your pages before cutting with acrylic lacquer...which I have mentioned a ton of times...stops glue from warping and soaking into the parts as well as gives a good "tooth" to give the paint job something to grab to...

The only one I had trouble with was the salt technique..salt just gets blown off during the second airbrush pass using it for the chipping/rust.

For rust...I use actual rust I scrape off of some old iron out on the porch, I have several chunks and they all produce a different reddish color from chocolate brown to reddish-orange ... as well as steel wool in a vinegar base in a small jar ... works really well...
Gandolf50, what brand of acrylic lacquer?
 

zathros

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I used to make a lot of Tamiya WWII models (God, they are so expensive now!). I had a diorama with a Bren Gun Carrier and a Chebrolet C54 truck, the one the SAS useddd. I had a Tank model that I used hit pins to reproduce high strength penetration bullets. and I scrapped rust (real rust) off of various rusting things, it's amazing how many colors of russt there are, and would mix it with flat paint, I would the spread powered rust over the drying rust, the effect was pretty good. The real tick is choosing where to put the rust, which h I found was around impacts of where fire might have been, as that would have melted off the pain. I don't like using Crazy Glues, though they have have their uses. UV Activated glues give much of the same effect, and layer up well. :)
 

Gandolf50

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Gandolf50, what brand of acrylic lacquer?
I live in the States, the only brand I use is the in-house Walmart Brands, and as you might know, Wally-World will suddenly just stop carrying a brand for no reason, even when it is a best seller...
I really liked the store brand of Crystal-Klear and all the options set bellow.
Rustoleum 2x Ultra-Cover, Clear Satin-fast dry -non-yellowing -UV resistant Acrylic Laquer is a good choice when a cheaper brand can't be found...

honestly, as long as it is Acrylic Laquer UV-resist-Non-yellowing your good to go, and I usually try for the cheapest I can find, a 9$ can of spray paint is absurd!!! ~ yadda-yadda...~ and my Moto: "I look for the cheapest way possible!"!

To use...Take your printed sheets OUTSIDEon a CLEAR-CALM day, as this stuff stinks and is toxic to the old' lungs. You won't be doing this in the middle of Winter!

Line up several sheets face-up, and spray each holding the can about 10" or so away, Spray R>L or L>R and then up and down, till it is covered with ( NO RUNS)! Go to NEXT.
Wait... Takes less than a minute for this to dry, so by the time you get to the 3rd sheet the first will be cold but dry!
Finish all the sheets...
Wait till dry to touch and any over-spray is dry also...Flip them over and do it again...
What your aiming at is for the sheet to turn translucent, which will ensure the Laquer has penetrated front to back... No worries..it will not be translucent when dry!!!

~And to ease fears... I have never had any printing ..RUN or anything...in fact, you will be sealing the printer ink under the Laquer.~

EDIT...If you use PHOTO-PAPER ( why would you?) to print your models...I HAVE NO IDEA what effect this may have on them! I would not suggest this until you made a test run!!!!!
 
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carlos filipe

carlos filipe
I live in the States, the only brand I use is the in-house Walmart Brands, and as you might know, Wally-World will suddenly just stop carrying a brand for no reason, even when it is a best seller...
I really liked the store brand of Crystal-Klear and all the options set bellow.
Rustoleum 2x Ultra-Cover, Clear Satin-fast dry -non-yellowing -UV resistant Acrylic Laquer is a good choice when a cheaper brand can't be found...

honestly, as long as it is Acrylic Laquer UV-resist-Non-yellowing your good to go, and I usually try for the cheapest I can find, a 9$ can of spray paint is absurd!!! ~ yadda-yadda...~ and my Moto: "I look for the cheapest way possible!"!

To use...Take your printed sheets OUTSIDEon a CLEAR-CALM day, as this stuff stinks and is toxic to the old' lungs. You won't be doing this in the middle of Winter!

Line up several sheets face-up, and spray each holding the can about 10" or so away, Spray R>L or L>R and then up and down, till it is covered with ( NO RUNS)! Go to NEXT.
Wait... Takes less than a minute for this to dry, so by the time you get to the 3rd sheet the first will be cold but dry!
Finish all the sheets...
Wait till dry to touch and any over-spray is dry also...Flip them over and do it again...
What your aiming at is for the sheet to turn translucent, which will ensure the Laquer has penetrated front to back... No worries..it will not be translucent when dry!!!

~And to ease fears... I have never had any printing ..RUN or anything...in fact, you will be sealing the printer ink under the Laquer.~

EDIT...If you use PHOTO-PAPER ( why would you?) to print your models...I HAVE NO IDEA what effect this may have on them! I would not suggest this until you made a test run!!!!!
Thank you Gandolf50. I live in Portugal, no Walmart. But your explanation will help me to look for that product. I'll ask around.
 
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