That deck is looking amazing, mouth watering what it's going to look like completed....
U-Don's U-Boot typ VII C
- Thread starter Papa Mashy
- Start date
Thank you all. The support helps push on with these long tedious jobs.
Nearly had a meltdown earlier... Ripped a section I was 70% through. Just caught it with the forceps.
I can save it though, but decided it was time for a break.
Nearly had a meltdown earlier... Ripped a section I was 70% through. Just caught it with the forceps.
I can save it though, but decided it was time for a break.
Yep... when you think you are done and then notice a day later you glued that one thing in backward... I can't tell you how many times I have done that... Break-Time...!!!
- Apr 5, 2013
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It looks very nice. Personally, so nice, I'd try and close the gaps on the saddle tanks a bit tighter, even if that means gooping them, and cutting in a seam. Just my 2 cents worth, either way, it is quite awesome!!
The decking is done. 
Well there is still all the furniture to add like hatches e.t.c but my cottage industry of making micro confetti is over.
Here is a few shots. (must get a better camera)
Onward then with deck detail next..
Well there is still all the furniture to add like hatches e.t.c but my cottage industry of making micro confetti is over.
Here is a few shots. (must get a better camera)
Onward then with deck detail next..
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- Apr 5, 2013
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OK. After a bit of a break, I'm getting back to this.
Added some of the deck features. i.e hatches and capstan.
I decided to put the capstan in the down position. The model instructions allow for "up" but I don't want to also put the bollards in the "up" position either, so I thought it would be odd to have the capstan up and bollards down.
Anyway, hatches on..
The model instructions show deck poles fore and aft, however after further research I was informed that, unless specifically stated on the particular boat being modelled that the forward pole is present, then only the aft pole should be included.
Therefore, as I couldn't find evidence of a forward pole on U552, I've only put one on.
I've done a bit of highlighting of the deck panels with a fine black drawing pen, here and there just to give a bit more definition.
and so, on to the conning tower...
Added some of the deck features. i.e hatches and capstan.
I decided to put the capstan in the down position. The model instructions allow for "up" but I don't want to also put the bollards in the "up" position either, so I thought it would be odd to have the capstan up and bollards down.
Anyway, hatches on..
The model instructions show deck poles fore and aft, however after further research I was informed that, unless specifically stated on the particular boat being modelled that the forward pole is present, then only the aft pole should be included.
Therefore, as I couldn't find evidence of a forward pole on U552, I've only put one on.
I've done a bit of highlighting of the deck panels with a fine black drawing pen, here and there just to give a bit more definition.
and so, on to the conning tower...
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- Apr 5, 2013
- 13,498
- 9,549
- 228
Pictures of bottom as requested.
Unfortunately, I have already glued the stand into position to help protect the aft and fore assembly.
Unfortunately, I have already glued the stand into position to help protect the aft and fore assembly.
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OK. lower half of the conning tower under way.
Usual prep work to create texture before paint - punching holes, burnishing with an empty pen and cutting out extra bits to give depth and not lose detail.
and so the insanity continues...
Usual prep work to create texture before paint - punching holes, burnishing with an empty pen and cutting out extra bits to give depth and not lose detail.
and so the insanity continues...
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Lower half assembled.
I may have made a mistake with the thickness of the card used for the deck plate. The recesses on the top half of the conning tower where the navigation lights sit are are very low down and may interfere with proper seating.
We shall see...
I may have made a mistake with the thickness of the card used for the deck plate. The recesses on the top half of the conning tower where the navigation lights sit are are very low down and may interfere with proper seating.
We shall see...
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- Apr 5, 2013
- 13,498
- 9,549
- 228
I asked, because I wanted to see how you handled the bulge seam problems you had. They came out pretty good. You lost the square edge by allowing it to go in, filler would have worked better, then forming the line while the filler is still pliable. I would not ever constructive criticism like this to just anyone but only those who's who models are magnificent. which yours are, and this one is becoming.
I really like the amount of detail that you are putting into this project.
Thanks for the support and kind words all. I really appreciate them and any constructive criticism, tips & hints.
I don't think it matters how experienced or inexperienced you are, there is always room to learn from others.
@zathros - I agree that those saddle tank joints could do with a bit more work. I may well revisit those again when I start on the final weathering and general touching up once the main building work is done.
I was considering applying some nylon fishing line (super thin hook tie 0.05mm) on to those external tanks to replicate the weld lines, but I'm not sure yet.
This brings me on to another conundrum...
If I create the the railings, steps, hand holds out of appropriate gauge wire then it will ultimately look better than flat paper. However the model is still currently 100% paper.
So, this is my conundrum.
Do I use other materials in the pursuit of eye candy/and ease or..
Do I zealously make the entire thing from paper only, in the pursuit of purity. :-/
Both have their appeal..
I don't think it matters how experienced or inexperienced you are, there is always room to learn from others.
@zathros - I agree that those saddle tank joints could do with a bit more work. I may well revisit those again when I start on the final weathering and general touching up once the main building work is done.
I was considering applying some nylon fishing line (super thin hook tie 0.05mm) on to those external tanks to replicate the weld lines, but I'm not sure yet.
This brings me on to another conundrum...
If I create the the railings, steps, hand holds out of appropriate gauge wire then it will ultimately look better than flat paper. However the model is still currently 100% paper.
So, this is my conundrum.
Do I use other materials in the pursuit of eye candy/and ease or..
Do I zealously make the entire thing from paper only, in the pursuit of purity. :-/
Both have their appeal..