The new IXS Enterprise card model

frontiernx01

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Hi everybody! Has anyone else tried to build the IXS Enterprise card model?? I downloaded the PDF file, but there were a few problems with it. Mostly missing lines or extraneous lines. And there were some parts that just did not have the lines for things like cut-outs and such. Disappointing, as the model shown was wonderful!! Here is the PDF : http://www.insanityunlimited.com/modelplans/IXS_Enterprise-v1.1.pdf
 

Revell-Fan

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Thank you very much for finding this out and for this info! thumbsup
 

zathros

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That's significant. I saw this model posted, and it is quite stunning. You must be the first person building it, as I have seen no pictures anywhere of anyone building it. I would love to see a build thread of this awesome model. Thanks for the info. Please post when the errors have been fixed and the link to corrected model? This will help people who may be interested this ambitious model. Thanks! ;)
 

frontiernx01

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That's significant. I saw this model posted, and it is quite stunning. You must be the first person building it, as I have seen no pictures anywhere of anyone building it. I would love to see a build thread of this awesome model. Thanks for the info. Please post when the errors have been fixed and the link to corrected model? This will help people who may be interested this ambitious model. Thanks! ;)
The model itself was fine. It was the PDF that was messed up. And there are links inside the PDF to a collection of photos for the artist's build. He hasn't put out a corrected PDF yet though.
 
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zathros

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What was messed up with the .pdf, so that others may know, and work with what they have, if you don't mind. :)
 

frontiernx01

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What was messed up with the .pdf, so that others may know, and work with what they have, if you don't mind. :)
There was a bit of ghosting on two pages. One page had the parts listed as "R6" and the other was "R10". Also, the lines for the page listed as "Struts" printed out way way too faint on some of the lines. Faint lines are all through the PDF actually, but they're usable. On another note, for some reason it's really hard to get chipboard in this area!! I had to order some more after I messed up the main torus rings. So yeah, no pictures of anything finished at all at this point. I'm just building the other parts for now.
 
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zathros

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I don't know what "Chipboad" is, I probably call it something else. Extracting the pages from the .pdf and then darkening with the appropriate program would be the best way. Personally, I think having the faintest lines you can work with gives you a better looking mode. I believe that may have been what David Lukens had in mind, looking at the care and effort put into this model. It's quite astonishing actually. I was able to extract the pages, but since it is locked in the .pdf, I will not share these .jpegs, nor tell anyone how to do it, anyone good with software can crack Adobe security. I would sincerely advise doing this only for your own purposes. I could import this into Rhino and create darker lines, if I had time to do anything but fix my house.

Maybe he will offer two versions, one with darker lines, and one with softer. I don't know what program he used to make this model, in some programs that is just a matter of changing the properties of all the lines, and "woomp", there it is. With other programs, not so easy. ;)
 

frontiernx01

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I don't know what "Chipboad" is, I probably call it something else. Extracting the pages from the .pdf and then darkening with the appropriate program would be the best way. Personally, I think having the faintest lines you can work with gives you a better looking mode. I believe that may have been what David Lukens had in mind, looking at the care and effort put into this model. It's quite astonishing actually. I was able to extract the pages, but since it is locked in the .pdf, I will not share these .jpegs, nor tell anyone how to do it, anyone good with software can crack Adobe security. I would sincerely advise doing this only for your own purposes. I could import this into Rhino and create darker lines, if I had time to do anything but fix my house.

Maybe he will offer two versions, one with darker lines, and one with softer. I don't know what program he used to make this model, in some programs that is just a matter of changing the properties of all the lines, and "woomp", there it is. With other programs, not so easy. ;)
Chipboard is just un-corrugated cardboard sheets. Like the stuff you find in hardbound books or the back of a mounted photo. :) I understand about the faint lines. Yes it would make a better looking model. But I can't even get them to show up at all on my printer. *whine whine*
And I've never tried to extract from a PDF, and I don't have a Rhino program. I'm just a lightweight in this area. I have asked David Lukens if he will darken the lines a bit. Hopefully he'll take pity on me. I went through my printed version of the PDF and found several pages that had nearly blank areas.
 

frontiernx01

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I just downloaded a 90 day free rhino 6 program. I think I have a whole lot of learning to do in order to do anything with it. *sigh* I think I'm gonna wait until Mr Lukens darkens the lines. But I'll try to do something with Rhino while I'm waiting.
 

zathros

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I just downloaded a 90 day free rhino 6 program. I think I have a whole lot of learning to do in order to do anything with it. *sigh* I think I'm gonna wait until Mr Lukens darkens the lines. But I'll try to do something with Rhino while I'm waiting.

This may do more with your printer settings. I am rebuilding my printer, so I can't check it right now.
 

Revell-Fan

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I just took a look. Page 29: One of the ring segments at the very left is out of place and is partly covered by other ring segments. The same with the "Pod"parts on page 32. The outlines on all white parts are indeed a tad light. However, white parts are always a bit difficult. You have to balance the outline colour and the base colour so that the outlines do not distract too much on the finished part. No matter how careful you cut them out there will always be a tiny rim that remains visible (except your name is @DanBKing , of course ;) ). Going full black is not an option. Something between 50 and 70 % black (= light grey) works best. :)
 

frontiernx01

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This may do more with your printer settings. I am rebuilding my printer, so I can't check it right now.
I messed with my printer for ages. Tried all kinds of settings. Nothing helped me. It's even got a new print head. Then again, the printer itself is maybe 6 years old....it's a Kodak ESP 3.2!