Super Detailed Locomotives

[2-8-2]

My detail parts from BLMA arrived today!

I'm super detailing an undecorated Atlas GP-7 w/ dynamic brakes, which will eventually be painted to look like this:

The parts I got today are:
- Lift rings (wow, these things are tiny)
- Air hoses
- Cut lever
- 18# drop grab irons w/ drill template
- MU hoses
- #80 drill bit

I thought about going all out, but this will work for now. I already have way too much money wrapped up in this engine.

 

[Shooter]

I like that paint scheme. The medium green will be a better color than something like engine black for showing off the effort you are putting into the separate details.

---jps

 

[SeriousSam]

My detail parts from BLMA arrived today!

I'm super detailing an undecorated Atlas GP-7 w/ dynamic brakes, which will eventually be painted to look like this:

The parts I got today are:
- Lift rings (wow, these things are tiny)
- Air hoses
- Cut lever
- 18# drop grab irons w/ drill template
- MU hoses
- #80 drill bit

I thought about going all out, but this will work for now. I already have way too much money wrapped up in this engine.

Tell me how you install the grab irons on the back of the locomotive. The one locomotive I installed them on, went too deep inside the holes, and when I tried putting back the split frame chassis thingie, it wouldnt go in. And if I leave them out enough so the frame will fit, they are really far away from the locomotive's body and look unreal. I hope im explaining it so you'll understand what im trying to say. Im not sure I understood me myself hehe. Thanks

 

[Shooter]

Trim the grab irons with a wire cutter before you install them.

---jps

 

[SeriousSam]

Here two in-progress shots, which show the details themselves more clearly:

I use GMM's diesel detail set for windshield wipers and cab sunshades, BLMA grab irons and lift rings, JnJ MU hoses, Sunrise Enterprises horns, antennae, bells, and speed recorders, MT Z/Nn3 couplers, and GMM's GP18 detail set for louvres. And I bend .008" wire for handrails, using GMM stanchions.

But unfortunately, N-scalers don't have as many items available to them, so depending on how detailed/accurate you want to get (ESPECIALLY with horns), you have to do some modifying and scratchbuilding of your own. For example, on the GP38, I had to cut down the GMM cab sunshade to match Southern's more closely, I had to cut up and rearrange Atlas horns, and I had to cut up and modify BLMA walkway lights for the Southern on-hood version. On the GP-16, I had to cut up GMM GP18 side skirts. And then I bent some wires for piping, used styrene rod for air reservoirs, and cut and shaped other styrene pieces to represent filters and other under-frame items.

---jps

Z scale couplers? how difficult are they to fit on N Scale? can you pull long trains with those?

 

[Shooter]

Z scale couplers? how difficult are they to fit on N Scale?

For the MT 903s and 905s (a.k.a. "Assembled 903s"), it's not very difficult. For an Atlas GP7 coupler pocket, you shim out the pocket with .020" styrene on the top and bottom, and .010" styrene on the sides. Then using the small drill bit from MT's 00-90 drill and tap set, drill a hole in the top and bottom styrene pieces where the original coupler mounting hole is, then tap it. The couplers fit snugly in the pocket, and the screw acts as a pin to hold the coupler in place, so it works well.

...can you pull long trains with those?

Z/Nn3 couplers are completely compatible with other MT couplers and Accumates and the like. As far as train length, my small layout only allows 20 cars up steep grades, and they do so with no problems. There have been some who have had problems pulling 100 car trains at shows. Several people report 50 is about the limit, while a few have problems with that much. At this point, it seems to depend on the layout, the rolling stock, and the modeler. From what I have been able to gather from people online, those who have had failures have mostly had alignment issues when that much stress is put on the coupler. I don't remember hearing of anyone who have had a coupler face snap or anything. Not yet, anyway.

---jps

 

[SeriousSam]

For the MT 903s and 905s (a.k.a. "Assembled 903s"), it's not very difficult. For an Atlas GP7 coupler pocket, you shim out the pocket with .020" styrene on the top and bottom, and .010" styrene on the sides. Then using the small drill bit from MT's 00-90 drill and tap set, drill a hole in the top and bottom styrene pieces where the original coupler mounting hole is, then tap it. The couplers fit snugly in the pocket, and the screw acts as a pin to hold the coupler in place, so it works well.

Z/Nn3 couplers are completely compatible with other MT couplers and Accumates and the like. As far as train length, my small layout only allows 20 cars up steep grades, and they do so with no problems. There have been some who have had problems pulling 100 car trains at shows. Several people report 50 is about the limit, while a few have problems with that much. At this point, it seems to depend on the layout, the rolling stock, and the modeler. From what I have been able to gather from people online, those who have had failures have mostly had alignment issues when that much stress is put on the coupler. I don't remember hearing of anyone who have had a coupler face snap or anything. Not yet, anyway.

---jps

thanks. I might have to try it out. I'll stop if its a pain though. Another question. What do you use to paint the grab irons and hand rails? The Badger model paint does not stay on the grab irons. The Floquil railroad colors paint stays on for a few days then it slowly breaks off. Should I add a primer first?

 

[Shooter]

thanks. I might have to try it out. I'll stop if its a pain though.

One thing I forgot to mention: For the Atlas GP7s, 9s, 30s, and 35s, I have found that with the larger coupler box of the 903, you may need to remove one coupler box whenever you want to get the body shell off of the mechanism. Not so with the GP38s/40s.

What do you use to paint the grab irons and hand rails? The Badger model paint does not stay on the grab irons. The Floquil railroad colors paint stays on for a few days then it slowly breaks off. Should I add a primer first?

I paint brush with Floquil's acrylics and a nice saber brush. I think the problem is that you need to wash the engine before you paint it. I gently wash the body with standard Ivory dish soap and a worn out toothbrush, rinse it off well, let it air dry for a good day, and then I don't handle it with my bare hands until after I've finished with the dullcote (I use latex gloves to handle the shell when painting).

---jps

 

[ns737]

you can get a lot of parts at sunrise enterprises