Sudsy's Benchtop - BMP inspired Chimera replacement

Gandolf50

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Well, now that you mention it, yeah, its copy paper. I might just leave them warped, and paint them rusty if I get too annoyed... There is always one in evrry platoon right?! We all know whic BMP Carl is driver for now!
:rolllaughing:I get it...oh well...Yep good idea...and I wasn't suggesting a replacement, but turning into some rust/war damage would work GREAT... You could try a bit of CV glue... place a drop or so on wax paper and use a toothpick to spread over the vent parts..and when dry you can coax them back to shape... they will then resist warping when you get some paint on it! and just wanted to say, OVERALL Looking GREAT!!!
Note: COPY PAPER = NOTES/ROLLED INTO TUBES or SOLID ROLLS/PRINTED and USED TO TRANSFER OUTLINES FOR SUB-SKELETONS...etc etc;)
 
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Sudsy

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Track detailing. Using the index card stock instead of cereal box worked like a charm. Little gap in the tracks that was easily hidden with a piece of scrap. It was a good tedious, like stippling or pointillism in drawing (creating a picture with nothing but dots of ink or paint). The effort pays dividends in the detail! Now I wonder if I should prime the tops of the treads now befor continuing construction. Based on previous build, that is a good lesson learned.

31JUL19 EDIT: Added the next series of 20 photos from the "BIMP 2" Build:

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Sudsy

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Started yet another project today, going to build a Rhino MKV with my oldest son (12 y.o.) whom I plan on getting into 40K with (I'm waiting till he's 13 to expose him to the grim dark rules and codex books...). He sees my collection asks me to get them down all the time. Might as well get him started building with more than 'waxie sticks' and oil based model clay (with some polymer clay thrown in the mix...).
 

zathros

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Well, now that you mention it, yeah, its copy paper. I might just leave them warped, and paint them rusty if I get too annoyed... There is always one in evrry platoon right?! We all know whic BMP Carl is driver for now!
You could dope them by brushing on liquid crazy glue. I have a 37 year old row boat I doped up with liquid crazy glue, and people swear it's plastic. I would never do this again, the piece was on a stick, and I did it outside. It stunk so bad, I could not take it into the house, but 4 days outside, and that was gone. I then painted over it, and I have actually sailed this 9" boat down water tanks 100' feet long x 6' wide at a place I used to work at. There was a massive floor fan at one end, and the little boat, after a few trims, sailed smartly, and the water did not effect it. It is the oldest model I own. One of the Balsa side seats fell out, when my wife was cleaning, and I think she swept it up. I should re-do it, and make a new mast and sail. My sister has the first one, with a wooden deck, made out of Popsicle sticks. That one is around the same age, but is a Catboat. My sister treasures it, and has taken much better care of it than I ever would.


Your damned right those models are expensive, and yes, they look it! If you think how much a mold costs to make a plastic one, with all the modern machinery, about that same amount of time, but mold is probably in the million dollar range. Of course, it will pop out a million models, but it won't pop out something like what you made. Something always get lost. It takes a fine plastic modeler a lot of sanding and greebling to bring a plastic models to life, and you're already there!! :)
 
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Sudsy

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You could dope them by brushing on liquid crazy glue. I have a 37 year old row boat I doped up with liquid crazy glue, and people swear it's plastic. I would never do this again, the piece was on a stick, and I did it outside. It stunk so bad, I could not take it into the house, but 4 days outside, and that was gone. I then pained over it, and I have actually sailed this 9" boat down water tanks 100' feet long x 6' wide at a place I used to work at. There was a massive floor fan at one end, and the little boat, after a few trims, sailed smartly, and the water did not effect it. It is the oldest model I own. One of the Balsa side seats fell out, when my wife was cleaning, and I think she swept it up. I should re-do it, and make a new mast and sail. My sister has the first one, with a wooden deck, made out of Popsicle sticks. That one is around the same age, but is a Catboat. My sister treasures it, and has taken much better care of it than I ever would.


You damned right those models are expensive, and yes, they look it! If you think how much a mold costs to make a plastic one, with all the modern machinery, about that same amount of time, but mold is probably in the million dollar range. Of course, it will pop out a million models, but it won't pop out something like what you made. Something always get lost. It takes a fine plastic modeler a lot of sanding and greebling to bring a plastic models to life, and you're already there!! :)

Good dope for tissue paper is very hard to find these days, ever since Comet went under and drones took their toll on both RC and freeflight ruber powered planes...
 

subnuke

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Nitrate and butyrate dope are still available. Aircraft Spruce and Specialty sells them with their appropriate thinners. Of course, you won't find them in tiny bottles, but they have the real stuff to use on the real airplanes. From what I hear they are a good company and aren't going anywhere.
 
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zathros

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If "Aircraft Spruce and Specialty" goes down, this country is really in trouble!! :)
 
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subnuke

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Tell me about it. Where else can you get a free catalog the size of a dictionary? You can do a whole lot of wishing with their catalog, even if you don't own a plane.
 
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Sudsy

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Got some more work done on the new turret, old turret for reference. I must say, it is nice to have a complete model to reference... Second go has a lot less headaches and head scratching; all the problems were found and worked through with the first one!
 

Sudsy

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I'm definately going to print the main weapons parts for the first BMP given these results. I rolled the barrel around a knitting needle that was about 3mm'ish in diameter after wetting it. Followed the same process with the smoke grenade launchers. Certainly enjoyed the results! Now it is on to final painting for this one. Can't say my tan covered it fully, but since it is a paper model and not plastic or resin, that doesn't concern me near as much since I'll be painting with acrylics anyway!