Hey, all.
I am now getting around to installing the switch machines, and seeing how they work with the turnouts. Right away, I can see a problem. Oh - and for background, these are the nice Walthers Shinohara code 83 Ni-Ag turnouts that look great. But they need work...
Nearly all of them (I have some #4s, #6s, some curved #8s and a #6 double crossover) are a bit sticky. When I examine them, I see two types of problems:
1) The cross-connector that holds the ends of the free rails together (this is the the part that the switch machine is supposed to move back and forth) is rubbing against a neighboring crosstie. The rubbing is just a bit too much friction for the switch machine to overcome. My proposed solution is to cut the plastic on the back of the rails (the plastic layer that consists of the ties and plastic hidden under the rails to hold all the ties in place) and move the last few ties down just enough to give room to the turnout crossmember. The only down side is that now the free rails are looser in the end where it joins to the other rails, but, well, it has to be looser in order to work. I think this will work as a solution for problem 1.
2) The free rails tend to drag (in some cases) on the ties below. As I look closely at the collection of turnouts, I see a surprisingly wide variety in how they are finished. The manufacturer must look at each one individually, and make adjustments by trimming the tops of the ties to get the rails to clear. But in some cases, it's not enough, and there is still drag. And it's tough to compensate.
So -- any ideas on how to rework these turnouts would be appreciated. I had not expected to have to do this.
But it's all part of the hobby. 
I am now getting around to installing the switch machines, and seeing how they work with the turnouts. Right away, I can see a problem. Oh - and for background, these are the nice Walthers Shinohara code 83 Ni-Ag turnouts that look great. But they need work...
Nearly all of them (I have some #4s, #6s, some curved #8s and a #6 double crossover) are a bit sticky. When I examine them, I see two types of problems:
1) The cross-connector that holds the ends of the free rails together (this is the the part that the switch machine is supposed to move back and forth) is rubbing against a neighboring crosstie. The rubbing is just a bit too much friction for the switch machine to overcome. My proposed solution is to cut the plastic on the back of the rails (the plastic layer that consists of the ties and plastic hidden under the rails to hold all the ties in place) and move the last few ties down just enough to give room to the turnout crossmember. The only down side is that now the free rails are looser in the end where it joins to the other rails, but, well, it has to be looser in order to work. I think this will work as a solution for problem 1.
2) The free rails tend to drag (in some cases) on the ties below. As I look closely at the collection of turnouts, I see a surprisingly wide variety in how they are finished. The manufacturer must look at each one individually, and make adjustments by trimming the tops of the ties to get the rails to clear. But in some cases, it's not enough, and there is still drag. And it's tough to compensate.
So -- any ideas on how to rework these turnouts would be appreciated. I had not expected to have to do this.
But it's all part of the hobby. 