Sr-71B 1:45 build thread

Revell-Fan said:
That looks VERY good! :)

When you add the skeleton: Try NOT to glue the skeleton to the skin parts. I made the experience that if you glue the skeleton to the skin you might end up with visible stress lines or "push and pull marks". If your skeleton parts are precise enough they will do their job even if they are inserted loose.
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But what about the curves of the body, at the bend point how will it "conform" to the skeleton if its just pulled on like a sock?
 
Yes, it should. I stopped glueing an internal skeleton to the skin many years ago when I found that out.
 
The trick is not to apply stress to the skin. Any stress will result in bulging or warping. So it is very important to pre-shape the skin, too, so that it holds its position quite nicely. The skeleton is there to prevent the pre-shaped skin from losing that shape.
 
Revell-Fan said:
The trick is not to apply stress to the skin. Any stress will result in bulging or warping. So it is very important to pre-shape the skin, too, so that it holds its position quite nicely. The skeleton is there to prevent the pre-shaped skin from losing that shape.
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I see Or maybe I could use a very thin layer of slow drying "super" glue (super glue does not warp paper.)
 
Revell-Fan said:
The trick is not to apply stress to the skin. Any stress will result in bulging or warping. So it is very important to pre-shape the skin, too, so that it holds its position quite nicely. The skeleton is there to prevent the pre-shaped skin from losing that shape.
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Ill DEFINETLEY try it without glue or anything, if you say it I GOTTA belive it lol
 
There are different methods for skinning an object. One is the sock method. The other is gluing each section in opposing pairs, so the frame stays straight. You start from the ends, working your way towards the center. It's easier to adjust the separate center pieces than it is to fit end pieces, which give so much definition to a model. This is the method I use when I skin hulls of a ship, skinning is skinning. Your "seams" in the previous pictures look like panel lines, the way they should look, they came out great. IMHO. ;)
 
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abdullahsamir said:
I see Or maybe I could use a very thin layer of slow drying "super" glue (super glue does not warp paper.)
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You have to give it a try. When I use super glue the paper absorbs it and gets transparent. In the end the areas are stained as if they had been touched with greasy fingers so I stay away from that. Maybe I am using the wrong glue though. :)
 
Super Glue builds up in your system and will cause you medical problems as its main ingredient is Cyanide!! Don't ever use "Superglue" for modeling.

"Zip-Dry" works very well, you can stick metal to rubber with it. "UHU" Glue products also work very well. I use it for ship model framing. It's not instant, but does allow for repositioning. If you apply the part to a strip, separate it after a few seconds, you will see the matrix forming, then press back i n, for best results. ;)

ZIP-DRY.jpg
 
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zathros said:
Super Glue builds up in your system and will cause you medical problems as its main ingredient is Cyanide!! Don't ever use "Superglue" for modeling.

"Zip-Dry" works very well, you can stick metal to rubber with it. "UHU" Glue products also work very well. I use it for ship model framing. It's not instant, but does allow for repositioning. If you apply the part to a strip, separate it after a few seconds, you will see the matrix forming, then press back i n, for best results. ;)

View attachment 219199
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Yes! I dont' mean super glue as in litarel super glue, but im talking like tamya glue, etc
 
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Hello all...
So this model is really nice in person but the camera picks up the pure black paper rather badly and I think it would look better with gray or white paper. any way I have an issue intersecting faces with shapes! :headbange:.... H E L P
 
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