Paper Trade - Fokker/Fairchild F-27 "Friendship"

[Ponytail2]

1. Model Subject: Fokker/Fairchild F-27 "Friendship"
2. Scale : 1:50
3. Publisher : Paper Trade, kit no. 40.
4. Designer : C. van Haasteren
5. Distributor : Paper Trade at www.zeistbouwplaten.nl

01 - Intro.​

Paper Trade, a Dutch Publisher (

​

​

​

​

website) has lately published a new papermodel of one of the most beautiful civil airplanes of the World:​

Fokker/Fairchild F-27 "Friendship"​

The model comes in 2 liveries and is scaled in 1:50. Special in this publishing is that it can be obtained professionally printed on paper , but people outside Europe also can get it as a download.,and so saving the sometimes huge packaging- and mailing-costs… The 2 liveries are from the Nederlandse Luchtvaart Maatschappij, NLM, and Hughes Air West.​

The covers:​

NLM:​

​

HAW:​

​

The modelkit has: 1 Cover, 11 pages with the parts, 6 pages constructiondrawings and 5 pages of manualtext in dutch and english. ​

The printmodel is printed on 3 kinds of paper: the parts are on 160 gr/m2 (8 pages) and 120 gr/m2 (3 pages). The manual is on normal 80 gr/m2-paper. For the download-model one should choose for the same kinds of paper. On the pages is indicated when it should be 120 gr/m2. ​

In this review I have chosen to use the Hughes Air West F-27.​

The main question is now: how different is the printed model compared to the Downloadmodel? First a look at all pages. For homeprinting I used my Canon Pixma Inkjet-printer.​

NLM - printed model:​

​

HAW – download and homeprinted model:​

​

Sofar no big differences in these pictures so we’d have a closer look:​

NLM :

​

​

​

HAW :​

Big diffences dit not appear. Only the lines in the parts are when homeprinted somewhat fatter, thicker and mor black. Also the grey colors are a bit weaker in the home-print. The professional printed model has some shine where the inkjetprint has none. A bit but still….​

From now the NLM-printed modelkit is back into the envelop: the HAW-model is on!​

​

:thumb:​

　​

 

[Zathros]

That's a nice comparison and review of the model. Some would argue as to if it was one of "the most beautiful civil airplanes of the World", but I view that as an insight into an individual, so there can be no argument, that is the subjective beauty, of beauty!. She is a beautiful bird isn't she! Thanks for the review!!:thumb:

 

[Ponytail2]

Fokker/Fairchild F-27 "Friendship" - Build and review

Due to some technical problems the first start of this thread got lost.
*******************************************************


The subject:

1. Model Subject: Fokker/Fairchild F-27 "Friendship"
2. Scale : 1:50
3. Publisher : Paper Trade, kit no. 40.
4. Designer : C. van Gaasteren
5. Distributor : Paper Trade at www.zeistbouwplaten.nl
　
01 - Intro.
　
Paper Trade, a Dutch Publisher (website) has lately published a new papermodel of one of the most beautiful civil airplanes of the World:
　
The Fokker/Fairchild F-27 "Friendship"
　
The model comes in 2 liveries and is scaled in 1:50. Special in this publishing is that it can be obtained professionally printed on paper , but people outside Europe also can get it as a download, and so saving the sometimes huge packaging- and mailing-costs… The 2 liveries are from the Nederlandse Luchtvaart Maatschappij, NLM, and Hughes Air West.
　
The covers:
　
NLM:
　

　
HAW:
　

　
The modelkit has: 1 Cover, 11 pages with the parts, 6 pages constructiondrawings and 5 pages of manualtext in dutch and english.
　
The printmodel is printed on 3 kinds of paper: the parts are on 160 gr/m2 (8 pages) and 120 gr/m2 (3 pages). The manual is on normal 80 gr/m2-paper. For the download-model one should choose for the same kinds of paper. On the pages is indicated when it should be 120 gr/m2.
　
In this review I have chosen to use the Hughes Air West F-27.
　
The main question is now: how different is the printed model compared to the Downloadmodel? First a look at all pages. For homeprinting I used my Canon Pixma Inkjet-printer.
　
NLM - printed model:

　
HAW – download and homeprinted model:

　　
Sofar no big differences in these pictures so we’d have a closer look:
　
NLM :

　
HAW :

　　
Big differences dit not appear. Only the lines in the parts are when homeprinted somewhat fatter, thicker and mor black. Also the grey colors are a bit weaker in the home-print. The professional printed model has some shine where the inkjetprint has none. A bit but still….
　
From now the NLM-printed modelkit is back into the envelop: the HAW-model is on!
　
to be continued...　

 

[Ponytail2]

Fokker/Fairchild F-27 "Friendship" - Review part 2

Starting a new kit always mean: study the manualtext and construction-drawings.
Or as they say: RTFM!
As we all always do, right?

The manualtext starts with a brief story about the development of the real Friendship. Followed by some technical data.
After this ‘lesson’ the constructionmanual starts with a warning: again RTFM…

Next is to choose which variation of the model you want to build.
The options:
1-No landinggear,
2-Moving flaps.
3-Simple landinggear.
4-Turning propellers.
5-Detailed landinggear.
Pick what you like!
This report being a testbuild my choice has to be the most detailed landinggear, turning propellers and moving flaps.
Who says a modelers life is easy?

Now the first cutting and glueing must be done. Page 10 has all the bulkheads/formers and should be glued on 1 mm greybeard or similar. Watch for parts FL and FR, these are not to be glued on greybeard.
To help you: the parts that should be stiffened are indicated with a * next to the partsnumber.
Here we are now:

to be continued...

 

[ekuth]

Great review! Looking forward to seeing more.

 

[Ponytail2]

Fokker/Fairchild F-27 "Friendship" - review part 3.

03 - THE BODY, part 1.
The construction of the model is the known tubes&cones-system.
Also:
Rounding the skinpart with a rod on a foamsurface.

Closing it and glueing the tabs.

Finally the bulkheads are put in place.

Special attention needs the fold over the lenght of the body. To keep it smooth it's better not to score.
I used a sharp corner/edge on my ruler and rub with a finger.

This gives:

And for the best result you always should do edge-coloring. For this I use a simple kids' waterpaint-set. Where needed the standard colors are mixed to adjust to the printed colors.
Like this:

When the maintube of the body (kit-parts 1) is completed the first forward-cone (kit-parts 2) can be made. And this goes on with the rest of the kit: building-order is by following the partsnumbers with sub-indication a-b-c- and so on.
Sofar I can only say this is an well designed kit. As already stated it came out of my printer very well.
An advantage of the homeprinted kits is when a part gets destroyed it is easy to get a new part by reprinting it. And it will be just the same as the destroyed one, which certainly cannot be obtained when using a scanned copy of a ready printed model.

to be continued...

 

[Zathros]

This edge coloring is one of the most overlooked steps in paper modeling. It seems that some of the most incredible models end up suffering from this flaw, or oversight. It is a must.

 

[Zathros]

I don't know if you can appreciate how much info you have posted here, and I hope anyone new to paper modeling realizes this. A picture speaks a thousand words, and the techniques you are showing are excellent, and would take volumes to explain!!

 

[Ponytail2]

The BODY 2

03 - THE BODY, part 2.
The first 2 parts-sets gave no problem being just simple a tube and a cone. Part-sets 3 and 4 are the first challenge in this kit. These parts are to construct the cockpit of hte Friendsip. Why do airplane-designers not take in count the papermodel-problems: these shapes are hard to do! Why is nog every cockpit like the Caravelle or the in-flight Concorde...?
sign1

Ah well, here we go:
The cutting is done as, is the edgepaint.

The sharp viewer notices I left some extra paper at the glue-tabs. This is bad habit of mine... Not necessairy but makes the parts easier to handle and gives some extra sturdiness to the construction.
I used this order to complete things:
1-tabs on both sides of the little parts 3a and 3b. See the dot-markings: on top!
2-roll and form part 3 into aan ring/cone and close it with the tab.
3-glue parts 3a first, then part 3b. From each one side at a time.

4-close the cockpit with the middle-tab. Dot-marking again!
5-IMPORTANT: do not close and fixate the seams in the roof yet. And don't place the bulkhead.

6-fix the gluetabs in place.
7-part-set 4 is on. Nothing difficult here... just another cone.
8-Part 3 and 4 now can be joined together. Do not fix the underside of the windows.Set some time aside to let dry. Not too long to keep some elasticity as long as the glue is not totally hardened.
9-Put bulkhead 4 in place now.
10-Now you can glue the windows-under to the nose-top. Being a butt-joint you have take your time for it.
11-Finally close the seams in the roof. I used the tissue-method: smear some glue on the spot, in the seam and push the part in plance and shape. Cover the glu with little parts of a tissue.
12-Bulkhead 3 will be the last thing to do.
This what I made of it:
Inside:

Outside:

to be continued...

 

[Zathros]

How big is this model, it looks huge!

 

[legion]

It's 1/50 scale

 

[Zathros]

It's 1/50 scale

I mean actual length. I figure it should be around 19.5" maybe a wee bit bigger? That's a big model!!

 

[Ponytail2]

Lengt of the body is around 48 centimeters, which will be approximately 18-19 inch, right?
Wingspan is around 58 centimeters, say 21 inch?
Not a real small one, but there are bigger paperkit-planes.

Greetings,
PT

 

[Zathros]

It's a nice and impressive size. Big enough to hold and appreciate. Certainly big enough to feel the air affects it's wings as you (me anyways) run around the living room making engine sounds!

 

[Ponytail2]

The body 3

04 - THE BODY, part 3.

This story continues with parts-sets 5 - 8, completing the nose.
Unfortunatly I forgot to make a few pictures during the build.... Where needed I will use words instead. ops:
Basically the nose is build-up with again a number of cones: 4 to be precise. When one chooses to use the simple or none landinggear-options there's nothing to say extra: just close the parts to make the coneshape, add the frontal gluetabs and the bulkheads. Now glue one on top of the next and after 4 you're done.
But it is my job to show the most difficult version: the detailed landinggear and opened wheelbays....
Now there's another challenge ahead. This is how I did this job.
First by making the cones with part-sets 5 and 6 but not yet setting the bulkeads in. After these 2 cones were glued together and the glue had mostly hardenend I cut-out the wheelbay-doors. Very useful for these jobs is a true medical scalpel. Very sharp! Try not to do this in one cut: you wil deform and distort the part. When the door is removed, don't forget the slits, the edges of the 'hole' are sanded smoothly and given some edgecoloring.
Finally the wheelbay, part NWK, is glued in place, alined with the slits. Last is the bulkhead.
I used this order because in my experience the shape is the least distorted. Providing one takes the time for it and good equipment!
Sofar with words, time for some pictures.
This is my result:

In the manual designer Cor van Haasteren uses another method/order: first add the closing gluetab, let dry. Cut out the doors and slits at both ends and close to a cone with the remains of the gluetab. Set bulkheads in place and wheelbay NWK in cone 6. Aligned with the slits! Now glue these 2 together.
My fear for this order of making is the due to the thin closingtab the wheelbay will not stay in straight square shape. But on the other hand: this way can easier be done without a scalpel. So take your pick!
Partsets 7 - 8 close the nose. The tiny part 8 I did using the tissue-trick again.

All together now:

How does it look when on it's final place at the body?
Like this:

Isn't she loveley?
But there's an old saying (in Holland): Who damages his/her nose is damaging his/her overall looks!
Therefore the nose-set is not glued in place. First of all there has to be weight added to keep the nose down, later. But more important: when the body during the build drops from the table, it happens to me all the time, it certainly will fall nose-down and destroy her... Think of the weight inside and one can figure how much damage will be done.
For the rest of this you will not see the nose until at the end, as the final stage.


To be continued...

 

[Zathros]

Re-enforcing the nose certainly is a must. The wheel well came out really nice. Making multiple cuts is always better than trying to "Hog" out everything all at once. She come along nicely very nicely.

 

[Ponytail2]

Fokker/Fairchild F-27 "Friendship" - review part 3-4

04 - THE BODY, part4.

Now the nose is done it's time "to grab the beast by the tail". In
fact this an easy job for the average papermodeler: a bunch of cones
glued upon eachother. Let us see:
Parts-sets 9 and 10 can be done the easy way: just cones. But not for
me! It happened to be so there will be a visible seam in the doors at
both sides of the body. Unavoidable at papermodels, but the designer
gives a way-around by replacing the 'original' doors by a new part in
one piece, without a seam.
To use this option one has to make the 2 parts-sets into cones with
the original doors cutted off. When glued together there is a door-
opening which has to be closed from the inside:

For closing a blank tab-part and the colored door are supplied. When
done right there door will be smoothly closed. To avoid a possible
shining through of the white tab I gave it a blue color like the
doors-edge. No mentioning needed that edgecoloring of the door-part
also is necessairy.
Finally the bulkheads in place and these 2 are done.
The following parts-sets 11 - 15 are for completing the tail. All
cones. Here they are:

A striking part on the body is the airscoop at the leftside.
Here I did not follow the designers' idea: the visible inside would
become all white.
Instead I seperated the bottom from the the 2 forwardparts. With the
triangular part I doubled it on greyboard, creating a complete bottom.
Covered it with the 2 forwards and the rear. Done!

Finally all cones are glued together and onto the forwardpart of the
body. Like this:

Some remarks:
As you can see there is a little coloring-mistake on top, part 9. Not
important, but this is a review, right?
Also there appeared a little misfit between parts 11 and 12. This
could easily be corrected at the top, which area later will be covered
and be invisible inside the tailfin. I have no clue were the mistake
came from in my cutting and glueing. So it has to be something in the
design....

To be continued...

 

[Zathros]

Those look like location lines for the rudder. If would try and cover those black lines as the piece that fits between the rudder and the main wing should cover those lines. It can't be a panel line as there are no other panel lines on the plane. Looks like you're still safe!