New member coming from the RPF

Skyler101

New Member
Aug 31, 2021
11
14
0
47
Hi Guys,

Recently I was over at the RPF and I discovered the amazing Battlestar Galactica colonial viper model that led me to this amazing forum.

I used to play around with paper models but since seeing the amazing work that you guys have been doing here to decide to jump straight back in using a diode laser that I have at home to cut up the models. If you're interested I'll share some of the results that I have had using this technique.

Looking forward to seeing what you guys create here it's pretty much amazing as far as I am concerned and I hope to show you some of my finished products.

Thank you

- Skyler101

P.S. I am a huge Battlestar Galactica fan. Can anyone point me in the direction of that amazing Viper model?
 
  • Love
Reactions: Revell-Fan

Revell-Fan

Co-Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Aug 1, 2009
9,598
8,783
183
Vreden
Hello and welcome to the forum! Great to see another fellow warrior join us. :)

That laser technique sounds very interesting. I'd love to see how it is done.

If you have any pics of your previous builds please feel free to show them here. We love pictures! We even have a special place for plastic and mixed media models, so you are not limited to showcase only paper models here.

Sorry for the short reply but I'll have to go to work now. CU again later! :)

Have fun and enjoy!

Revell-Fan (aka GALACTICAN) ;)

P.S. I am a huge Battlestar Galactica fan. Can anyone point me in the direction of that amazing Viper model?
Small tip: Follow me and @Rhaven Blaack ..! ;)
 
  • Love
Reactions: Skyler101

Skyler101

New Member
Aug 31, 2021
11
14
0
47
That laser technique sounds very interesting. I'd love to see how it is done.
No problem. I am putting together a video showing what I do, but basically I get my diode laser to cut and score the parts, so once the job is done, its like the old "punch out" books you used to buy int the 70's and 80's.

Saves ma a lot of time cutting out, and is repeatable so its a fun process. (Setting it up does take some time though).

I'll post some of my other media models here. My paper craft skills need some sharpening.. and the last one I made used a glue stick! :(

Thanks for the welcome!

-Skyler101
 
  • Like
Reactions: Revell-Fan

Skyler101

New Member
Aug 31, 2021
11
14
0
47
Viper Pilot helmet is a holy grail item for me (since I was a child watching the show on its first run) and is 3D printed with fiberglass jacket. Took me some time to learn how to do that, but it was worth the climb.

Han Solo blaster and Clip Gun from Blake's 7 along with the Cosmogun are 3D printed, along with my favourite tape deck!

-Skyler101
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: zathros

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Jun 12, 2009
10,616
6,756
228
Oregon
Hello and welcome you to Zealot!

You have come to the right place for all things paper/cardstock, and to build and hone your skills. The members here are very helpful.

I am a member of the RPF as well, and use the same screen name and have posted many paper/cardstock models (including the Colonial Viper). So, the Colonial Viper that you saw at the RPF was (more than likely) mine.

By all means, please post tutorials on how to add lasers/lights & sound to models. I (for one) am very interested in learning new techniques!

The 3D printed Viper pilot helmet, blasters and tape deck look GREAT! Thank you for sharing the photos with us!

So, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, need help or advice. Please feel free to ask and we will do what we can to help you (or at least point you in the right direction).

When you start a new project, please post a build thread. Build threads are a great way of show off your work and skills. Not only that, but if you run into an issue with a model you can highlight the area that you are having problems with and we can offer you some suggestions on how to deal with them.

Once again, welcome aboard. I hope that you enjoy yourself here. I look forward to seeing your work.
 

zathros

*****SENIOR ADMINISTRATOR*****
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Apr 6, 2013
12,251
7,629
228
Did you write the program files for the 3D printer? Most impressive work you have displayed. 3D printers involve so much more than just running a program. Welcome to Zealot!! Your knowledge of 3D printing is well appreciated and we have a section for it. I do a lot of CAD, which is why I asked about the files. I wondered what programs and formats file extensions you can work with, i.e. .stl, .dwx, etc., you use. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Skyler101

Skyler101

New Member
Aug 31, 2021
11
14
0
47
Thank you for the welcome Rhaven Blaack,

I have seen your work on the RPF and am inspire by what you all create. This has to be one of the most welcoming forums I have joined in some time

By all means, please post tutorials on how to add lasers/lights & sound to models. I (for one) am very interested in learning new techniques!
I want to clarify....

I use a diode laser to cut out the parts that are printed onto paper, and even use the laser to score or perforate some of the lines that need folding. This saves me time if I want to make multiple models.

I'm playing around with lights and sounds, and if I cannot something gaining, I'll share that as well.

And since you asked, (and I am a total noob)has anyone tried strengthening paper models? I was thinking superglue, but that would become expernsivequickly and might stain paper. Im sure people have thought of this before, so if there is a thread about making these models stronger for handling, moving, ect... please let me know.

I look forward to sharing what I know with you all.

-Skyler101
 

Skyler101

New Member
Aug 31, 2021
11
14
0
47
Did you write the program files for the 3D printer? Most impressive work you have displayed. 3D printers involve so much more than just running a program. Welcome to Zealot!! Your knowledge of 3D printing is well appreciated and we have a section for it. I do a lot of CAD, which is why I asked about the files. I wondered what programs and formats file extensions you can work with, i.e. .stl, .dwx, etc., you use. :)
I have done a little modelling for 3D printing, and your right, there is so much to learn on that subject.

All the models you see were found online and modified before I printed them. I use Meshmixer to change orientation, fix problems and do what I need. I seem to save everything out to .STL

I use a lot of Tinkercad, but have been playing with Fusion360. I would love to design more models, and in fact, thats one of the reasons I started making paper models again. To start thinking in parts.

I believe those who are making these amazing models know more that I! :)

But what I know, I am more than happy to share.

Thanks for the welcome.
 

Skyler101

New Member
Aug 31, 2021
11
14
0
47
Welcome skyler, nice to have your here Im looking forward to see the diode laser cutter.
Wanted to show you my first test.

This was a paper model I received a few years ago, from a Micronauts toy fan.

You can see half the model built (I gave up using a glue stick!) but you can definitely see what remains from the template.

-Skyler101
 

Attachments

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Jun 12, 2009
10,616
6,756
228
Oregon
And since you asked, (and I am a total noob)has anyone tried strengthening paper models? I was thinking superglue, but that would become expernsivequickly and might stain paper. Im sure people have thought of this before, so if there is a thread about making these models stronger for handling, moving, ect... please let me know.
-Skyler101
That is a very good question. There are a few ways to "harden" a model. It all depends upon what the use of that model will be (i.e. static model, child's toy, cosplay, etc.).
Let's go through some of them.
  1. For the proposes of a "static" model (i.e. it is just going to sit on your for display purposes ONLY). I would either spray the template (before cut and assembly) with a clear coat spray (like Krylon Clear coat) then assemble or spray the finished model with the Krylon clear coat (You can (and some have with great results) both spray the template and once the model is finished, spray it again). You can use super glue on really small parts that may delaminate (i.e. landing gear, antennas, control lever/joysticks for aircraft and other just components).
  2. With a child's toy, just use thicker cardstock. Once it is destroyed (which will happen), build them another one (or teach them how to build the model for themselves).
  3. For cosplay, you will want to (not only use thicker cardstock, but) you will want to laminate the former and reinforce the the parts by laminating them to where they are rigid and can hold up to a certain level of continued usage.
  4. For lights and sound, you will want to reinforce the formers and outer structure (depending on the weight of the sound-board and where it is placed in the model).
I hope that this helps and gives you a good starting point to work from.
 

mijob

Tie designer
Jul 5, 2020
1,003
1,687
95
52
Netherlands
My wife is painting stones she uses "Mod podge" to get a protective transparent layer over the paint. She made it herself with wood glue and water. Depending on the thucknes of the glue you have to figure out the muxture.
She tested with 2 ml gleu on 1 ml water. It looks verry good. Maybe this is useable to on papermodels.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rhaven Blaack

Revell-Fan

Co-Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Aug 1, 2009
9,598
8,783
183
Vreden
Sometimes I use left-over paper and laminate it to the back side of the part. The more layers the stronger it becomes. This is also a great way to recycle cardboard boxes, advertising letters and so on.

(I gave up using a glue stick!)
:toast::toast::toast:

A very wise decision!

Well, glue sticks may be handy for laminations, but not for attaching flaps. ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rhaven Blaack

micahrogers

Moderator "Where am I, and how did I get here?"
Staff member
Moderator
Jul 12, 2012
2,630
2,706
113
Shannon GA
Sometimes I use left-over paper and laminate it to the back side of the part. The more layers the stronger it becomes. This is also a great way to recycle cardboard boxes, advertising letters and so on.


:toast::toast::toast:

A very wise decision!

Well, glue sticks may be handy for laminations, but not for attaching flaps. ;)
The project I'm doing now, with the floor textures and foam board, are laminated using glue sticks.
 
  • Wow
Reactions: mijob

zathros

*****SENIOR ADMINISTRATOR*****
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Apr 6, 2013
12,251
7,629
228
Think of making small box structures for the inside of the model to strengthen them. Acois Crazy Glue or any cyanoacrolates at all cost, they contain cyanide and that builds up in your system. A better alternative, is U.V. activated glue for eyes, headlights, and other glass like features. ZIP DRY and just about any glue made by UHU , available at Micheal's Craft Stores, are excellent. You can glue a metal pin to leather with ZIP DRY, and it's completely non toxic, and is Lignen free, which means it will not yellow. I use Popsicle Sticks, and Balsa wood too. One of the main reasons models warp is because of moisture. I am particular about printers and only use printers that use Pigment Ink because it will not run, as Dye based inks will, and lasts 100's of years, is not susceptible to Sunlight, which will make most Dye based Inks disappear. That being said, starting with light layers of clear or satin pain, you can build this up on your model and seal it for moisture. I gave a Lotus Europa model to my fight instructor's son, 20 years later, he is no longer a little boy. He still has this model. A little worn for wear, after all he did play with it, but all the printed details are still on it. :)

The Europa is available here, as are the Instructions: http://www8.wind.ne.jp/takumi/s0711.html


lotus1.JPGlotus2.JPGlotus3.JPG
 

Skyler101

New Member
Aug 31, 2021
11
14
0
47
Think of making small box structures for the inside of the model to strengthen them. Acois Crazy Glue or any cyanoacrolates at all cost, they contain cyanide and that builds up in your system. A better alternative, is U.V. activated glue for eyes, headlights, and other glass like features. ZIP DRY and just about any glue made by UHU , available at Micheal's Craft Stores, are excellent. You can glue a metal pin to leather with ZIP DRY, and it's completely non toxic, and is Lignen free, which means it will not yellow. I use Popsicle Sticks, and Balsa wood too. One of the main reasons models warp is because of moisture. I am particular about printers and only use printers that use Pigment Ink because it will not run, as Dye based inks will, and lasts 100's of years, is not susceptible to Sunlight, which will make most Dye based Inks disappear. That being said, starting with light layers of clear or satin pain, you can build this up on your model and seal it for moisture. I gave a Lotus Europa model to my fight instructor's son, 20 years later, he is no longer a little boy. He still has this model. A little worn for wear, after all he did play with it, but all the printed details are still on it. :)

The Europa is available here, as are the Instructions: http://www8.wind.ne.jp/takumi/s0711.html


View attachment 196788View attachment 196789View attachment 196790
Wow... that is an amazing piece of work!
Some people might think that paper models are for kids, but that is truly a piece of art!

:)

-Skyler101