MK-I (armed) Land Rover from "BUCK ROGER in the 25th CENTURY" (MEGO livery) in 1:50 scale

Rhaven Blaack

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As we all know, @Revell-Fan created the templates for the Land Rovers from "Buck Roger in the 25th Century" in both 1:32 & 1:50 scale (all three can be found in the resource section).
@Revell-Fan also repainted the MK-I (armed) Land Rover to look like the toy that was made by the MEGO toy company.
LandRover2.jpg

So, at 1:50 scale all of the parts fit on just four pages. However, I have printed the parts sheet out three times (so that I have enough parts to add details and greebles) and split the sheets in half.
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On the roof, there is a (recessed) compartment that has two tanks and to (what appear to be) first-aid kits. Here are the parts.
(*NOTE* You have the option to either build the tanks and boxes or laminated them.)
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I layered clear plastic over the edging for the recessed box. I also built the boxes and tanks.
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The recessed compartment and the components are assembled.
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The "glass" top is attached. The compartment is ready to be attached to the main body shell.
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Here is the main body shell of the Land Rover. I recessed the side control panels, layered clear plastic over top of it and raised some of the components on each of the panels. I have also raised a few other panels.
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The recessed compartment is attached.
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I started to form the outer shell.
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There is more to come! So please say tune to your local Earth Directorate broadcasting channels for more updates.
 

Revell-Fan

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Great start, pal! :)

Folks, please click on the pictures to fully appreciate what's going on here! ;)

RB and I had some indepth discussions on those additions. At first I was not sure if a fully fleshed out version was buildable at this scale, so I added a number of flat pieces for laminating - just in case.

The first version of the model did not feature the decal between the spotlights on the roof. I simply forgot to add it and revised the plans a few days ago when RB brought it to my attention.

When RB told me that he was about to greeble this version out we were thinking of the most logical position of the new components. If they had been put on top of the roof it would have been an easy target for the enemy (no-one puts a gas tank on an armoured vehicle without protection ;) ). Moreover, the pack would interfere with the swivleing spotlights. The next logical conclusion was to put it below the roof. Since the components were indicated by a sticker on the roof of the MEGO toy everything had to be visible on the model just like it was on the toy. So I decided to put it under a glass screen right below the roof itself. That way the parts were protected and would be out of the way for the spotlights. This had a neat side-effect: If the vehicle was real and had an accident you would be able to grab the first aid kits either from within the vehicle or through the pane from the top, whatever would be more feasible. :)
 
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Rhaven Blaack

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It is time for an update.

I decided to attempt to make the spotlights on the roof swivel.

Here are the parts for the spotlight.
20210820_151909.jpg

I assembled the spotlights. I recessed the field for the lenses and raised the lenses. Then raised the band that is on the shroud.
I also cut two circles that are (roughly) 3mm in diameter. I also cut two pieces of toothpicks that are a little longer than the spotlight mount. I attached the toothpick pieces to the discs.
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I pushed the toothpicks through the holes for the spotlights and put a dab of glue on the tip of the toothpick piece, then place the spotlight mount on it.
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The spotlights can now swivel.
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Please say tune to your local Earth Directorate broadcasting channels for more updates.
 

Rhaven Blaack

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I am now moving on to the underside.

Here is the front underside panel with the lights. I have recessed the light panel, raised the lenses and the grill.
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The front underside panel is attached.
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These are the internal formers. I laminated them to 1 mm thick.
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The formers are assembled.
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The formers are in place.
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Here is the bottom plate.
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The bottom place is in place.
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Here is the undercarriage/drive box.
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The undercarriage/drive box is assembled.
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The undercarriage/drive box is in place.
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Here is the lower bumper.
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Here is the lower bumper.
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The lower bumper is in place.
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Please say tune to your local Earth Directorate broadcasting channels for more updates.
 

Rhaven Blaack

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It is time for another update. This time, it is the track system.

Here are the parts for the tracks, track pads, wheel mounts and wheels.
20210821_151805.jpg

I assembled the wheels, laminated the track pads to 0.5mm and assembled the track belts.
(*NOTE*Yes, one track belt does look longer than the other. However, it is a matter of how I assembled them I did not give one set as much of an attachment tag as I did with the other one. With that being said, you will see that I did not have any problems or issues with wrapping the tracks.
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The tracks are wrapped and the track pads are attached.
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The tracks are in place.
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Revell-Fan

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Great work, pal! You are knocking this one out of the park. :)
(*NOTE*Yes, one track belt does look longer than the other. However, it is a matter of how I assembled them I did not give one set as much of an attachment tag as I did with the other one. With that being said, you will see that I did not have any problems or issues with wrapping the tracks.
As long as the (textured) chain pieces are the same length you shouldn't be in trouble! ;)
 

micahrogers

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Great work. How do you get a smooth curve around the sprocket and idlers? I have trouble making smooth curves with laminated paper.
 
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Rhaven Blaack

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Great work. How do you get a smooth curve around the sprocket and idlers? I have trouble making smooth curves with laminated paper.
That is a very good question. There are a few factors that have to be taken into consideration.
  1. The thickness of the paper that is used and how thick you laminate the parts.
  2. The type of glue that you us for laminating.
  3. What you use to roll the parts (i.e. what kind of dowel(s) for rolling and what type of pad that the parts are on when you roll your parts).
  4. How you start initially rolling the parts.
  5. How tight the roll is.
I (generally) use paper/cardstock that is 0.22 mm thick.. The track belts are laminated to (roughly) 0.44 mm thick.
I (generally) use Aleen's Tacky glue for (most) everything.
I use different sized dowels and a thick mouse pad for rolling the parts.
When I start rolling the part, I will start off with a dowel that is larger than the size that I need. Then gradually use smaller dowels until I use one that is just (slightly) smaller then size I need. *NOTE* While going through this process, I check for delamination and fix what ever needs to be fixed on the spot.
 

Revell-Fan

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Great work. How do you get a smooth curve around the sprocket and idlers? I have trouble making smooth curves with laminated paper.
I pre-shape the single layers first so that they already have a nice curve. Then I laminate them and roll them further while they are still "wet". As Rhaven said, start with larger dowels and carefully work yourself toward the desired shape. I found it very difficult to roll laminated pieces when the glue has already cured. The piece will become hard and brittle, the rolling will cause wrinkles and cracks. ;)
 

micahrogers

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I am currently stuck in San Diego, with no printer or paper, and just the tools that I've bought to build the Gundam I'm working on... But I'm gonna get something printed out at Office Depot and try to build it.
 

Rhaven Blaack

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I am currently stuck in San Diego, with no printer or paper, and just the tools that I've bought to build the Gundam I'm working on... But I'm gonna get something printed out at Office Depot and try to build it.
The Gundam is turning out nicely!!!
I fully understand. If you are able to print out a template at Office Depot, I look forward to seeing how it turns out!!!
 
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