the tail is one part. i formed the shape of the tail boom with thin paper around a sanded toothpick. this core part i used to form the part into a cone. then i opend the cone a little bit and filled id with UHU(yellow). now a short break for a few seconds to let the surface of the glue to dry. i inserted the core into the cone - the glue came out of the part, but no panik - with a gentle move of my fingertips i removed the surmounting glue. the first try (sorry no picture for documentation) was successfull 8)
i will try to make some macro/macro picture of the tail
About the tail: unlike Raimund, I added a small strip of paper/glueing tab from the inside. A lot of PVA glue, and I pressed the tab from the inside with a toothpick.
Btw, everybody dislikes PVA glue - I find it great! It has no color, you can easily remove the excess (with fingertip or with a piece of card). And it is great when the fit is not perfect: put a lot of glue and the part turns to 'papier mache', so that you can 'fill' the seams.
Reading the post about the canopy being clear and test forming it, I was taken back to some remedies I have used in the past when working with clear plastic.
As we all know, CA or cyno acrylate glue will "fog" clear plastic really fast, so will testors "dull coat" spray on matte finish (used for knocking off glares and toning down gloss enamal).
One way to repair this fogging, or even scratches in clear plastic is to use a very small amount of clear enamal fingernail polish over the affected area. BUT...... not all plastic is the same, so test it on a small area of scrap clear plastic first, once it dries, the plastic should be just as clear as it can be, although, in some cases I have noticed it will give a "magnifying" quality to the plastic.
I dont know if this will help with the libelle, but it is a neat and useful tip to know. Clear nail polish is also great for making realistic looking landing and navigation lights. paint the light the proper color on the model
first and then once dry, cover with clear polish to give it a "lens" adding depth to the light. You will be amazed at the results. Another tip is to use the wire from bread tie twist for antenna, and monofiliment fishing line painted black or colored with a black marker for guy wires. You can apply the heat of a cig from a distance of a few inches to tighten the monofiliment once the glue has set it in place. ( the fishing line shrinks in heat, thereby tightening).