k.u.k. Marine Wien
- Thread starter Corporal_Trim
- Start date
Now I wish I had an amusing story to back that up; I don't - it was just one of those six-pack innovations that would never work in real life.
Was trying to think of a way to motorize the rotating light on a relatively small-scale lighthouse model I was preparing to build. Saw someone's post about a small motor that probably would have had the beacon spinning so fast the whole blighted thing would likely lift off the ground.
Josh
Was trying to think of a way to motorize the rotating light on a relatively small-scale lighthouse model I was preparing to build. Saw someone's post about a small motor that probably would have had the beacon spinning so fast the whole blighted thing would likely lift off the ground.
Josh
One word...gears! :lol:
Not sure how that would work, you would have to experiment, but there are gear sets that would slow it down a bit....I can see a cream of wheat bulb, set up so the electric connection is maintained despite the spinning lamp, and a small gear driven engine turning it...or perhaps use a shadow box that will allow the light to shine out of a hole in a set up resembling the lens set up, the bulb hanging down from the top but not tied into the spinning shadow box; the shadow box/lens can then be made to spin (in the right direction, of course, which I believe is clockwise looking down) to give the impression of the spinning light.
Just some random thoughts...I hate it when I digress! :lol:
Jim
Not sure how that would work, you would have to experiment, but there are gear sets that would slow it down a bit....I can see a cream of wheat bulb, set up so the electric connection is maintained despite the spinning lamp, and a small gear driven engine turning it...or perhaps use a shadow box that will allow the light to shine out of a hole in a set up resembling the lens set up, the bulb hanging down from the top but not tied into the spinning shadow box; the shadow box/lens can then be made to spin (in the right direction, of course, which I believe is clockwise looking down) to give the impression of the spinning light.
Just some random thoughts...I hate it when I digress! :lol:
Jim
The shadow box and gears crossed my mind! In the end, I just crammed a penlight up there, it's a neat enough effect. Was anxious to move on to the next model. Maybe someday...
I've seen some small 6 and 12 volt stepper motors down at the local
electronics surplus store. They're kind of like the motors that slowly spin
them aweful disco balls but on a smaller scale. Geared down pager motors
and those new bright white LED's would work well too. The whole thing could then work well with 1.5 volts
electronics surplus store. They're kind of like the motors that slowly spin
them aweful disco balls but on a smaller scale. Geared down pager motors
and those new bright white LED's would work well too. The whole thing could then work well with 1.5 volts
Jimkrauzlis said:Superb model, Corporal Trim!! I have some models of German ships from this era and look forward to trying them in the near future...I seriously doubt it will come out as well as yours, but guess that's part of the learning curve.
Jim
Thanks for the kind words, Jim.
I'm sure your German ships will come out fine, as your freighter is certainly looking good. Finished mounting the four aft boats, installed the torpedo net booms, making good progress on the main mast. I'll post a few more pics in a couple of days.
Hello All,
ZAP Cars is Radio Shacks micro RC Car line. They're powered by small pager motors, hence ZAP motors. They are way to fast for a light house application. The best application I've seen for lighthouse lighting is a product sold by Micro Mark. It varies the voltage to a light bulb by a slowly varying sinusoid. The effect is very similar to a rotating lighthouse beacon. This has, however, given me an idea for a great hobby product...,
Best regard, Gil
ZAP Cars is Radio Shacks micro RC Car line. They're powered by small pager motors, hence ZAP motors. They are way to fast for a light house application. The best application I've seen for lighthouse lighting is a product sold by Micro Mark. It varies the voltage to a light bulb by a slowly varying sinusoid. The effect is very similar to a rotating lighthouse beacon. This has, however, given me an idea for a great hobby product...,
Best regard, Gil
Steve-
Looking forward to the new pics and your work with the masts and rigging. For my Ambrose project, I built a jig to create the rope ladders (sorry, I have ZIP ship vocabulary
ops: ) that connect to the masts and deck. I intend to just attach them with CA (super glue). After that is the rigging and I'll be curious to see how you do this step.
Boy, this topic really generated a lot of good discussion, huh? In Alvar Hansens Card Modelling Basic and Advanced Techniques, he builds a lighthouse as an example and VERY BRIEFLY described using a "fibre-glass"(?) optics assembly, a 60mm tube with reflecting tape the runs the full height of the lighthouse tower, with a mirror at the top. Perhaps it would be easier to rotate this reflecting tube instead of the lighsource in the top of the structure? Just throwing it out there.
By the way, it's a great book.
Looking forward to the new pics and your work with the masts and rigging. For my Ambrose project, I built a jig to create the rope ladders (sorry, I have ZIP ship vocabulary
ops: ) that connect to the masts and deck. I intend to just attach them with CA (super glue). After that is the rigging and I'll be curious to see how you do this step.Boy, this topic really generated a lot of good discussion, huh? In Alvar Hansens Card Modelling Basic and Advanced Techniques, he builds a lighthouse as an example and VERY BRIEFLY described using a "fibre-glass"(?) optics assembly, a 60mm tube with reflecting tape the runs the full height of the lighthouse tower, with a mirror at the top. Perhaps it would be easier to rotate this reflecting tube instead of the lighsource in the top of the structure? Just throwing it out there.
By the way, it's a great book.
Alas, poor Steve, I feel I have hijack'd his thread. Gil, I think you might have recommended that bit of ingenuity back at the time - I recall viewing the chap's website, it is a neat bit of electronics. Sadly, the price tag was a little hefty; I'd have had to ask the boss for an advance on the allowance.
More importantly - What a nice looking ship!!
Josh
More importantly - What a nice looking ship!!
Josh
Corporal_Trim said:
Thanks, Steve. I've been using an x-acto knife for most of the cutting I've been doing as my scissors are too thick to give me a clear view of the line. I just odered a pair of those Fiskars scissors Ron displays in his "Tools of the Trade" article. Hopefully, they'll work a lot better!
A.J.
Cutting curves
Fly fishing shops usually carry really nice small scissors, perfect for cutting out small bits and rigging. They also sell circular punches (for salt water fly bodies) that work good for our purposes.
For long curves I prefer a fresh scapel blade and make the cut on a glass surface. I don't have much luck cutting freehand on a cutting board as the resistence is too high. On the glass the blade just glides through the paper.
Bugbrains
Fly fishing shops usually carry really nice small scissors, perfect for cutting out small bits and rigging. They also sell circular punches (for salt water fly bodies) that work good for our purposes.
For long curves I prefer a fresh scapel blade and make the cut on a glass surface. I don't have much luck cutting freehand on a cutting board as the resistence is too high. On the glass the blade just glides through the paper.
Bugbrains
Main Mast
Here goes with a couple of quick-and-dirty webcam shots. First up. the main mast. The rigging appears too prominent in this solo shot, but I think it won't be too noticeable once I glue it to the model.
Here goes with a couple of quick-and-dirty webcam shots. First up. the main mast. The rigging appears too prominent in this solo shot, but I think it won't be too noticeable once I glue it to the model.
Wien
Hi
Looking great Steve. What size thread are you using ?
I don't really like WW1 battleships but that colour scheme is so in your face, you have to be impressed.
barry
Hi
Looking great Steve. What size thread are you using ?
I don't really like WW1 battleships but that colour scheme is so in your face, you have to be impressed.
barry
LOL, barry. I don't even know. I'm using some thread which was included with an order of Langton 1:1200 sailing ships, even the standing rigging thread is fairly thin. The running rigging thread is even finer, so I'll likely use that. I plan to use a combo of this thread and thin wire to rig the ship.
Nice job on the mast rigging! Looks great.
I have a few questions about the techniques you use. On the mast rigging, do you tie it to the mast pieces or just glue them? In the photo it looks like they wrap around the crossbar and draping rigging. I like the look.
On the lifeboats, i guess you just glue the rigging to the davits. It would be tough to tie that on.
Thanks for sharing the photos.
I have a few questions about the techniques you use. On the mast rigging, do you tie it to the mast pieces or just glue them? In the photo it looks like they wrap around the crossbar and draping rigging. I like the look.
On the lifeboats, i guess you just glue the rigging to the davits. It would be tough to tie that on.
Thanks for sharing the photos.
Thanks, Bill.
Mostly it's tied on. I think the parts which look draped are the vertical lines down to the foot ropes on the two larger spars. Those are very thin wire bent to a hook shape where they are glued to the spar, and a small spot of glue to secure them to the foot rope on the bottom.
I glued the mast to the ship this morning, and the thicker "standing rigging" thread still appears a little dark and thick to my eyes, but I think this effect will recede once I rig the rest of the ship, and the eye is not particularly drawn to it.
As I said, I plan a minimalist rigging scheme.
Mostly it's tied on. I think the parts which look draped are the vertical lines down to the foot ropes on the two larger spars. Those are very thin wire bent to a hook shape where they are glued to the spar, and a small spot of glue to secure them to the foot rope on the bottom.
I glued the mast to the ship this morning, and the thicker "standing rigging" thread still appears a little dark and thick to my eyes, but I think this effect will recede once I rig the rest of the ship, and the eye is not particularly drawn to it.
As I said, I plan a minimalist rigging scheme.