I am so tired of wrecking things with cynoacrylate glue. I have ruined my train station. IT got all stained with CA and now the Un Cure left white residue all over. TIme to switch to Testors..Ugh.
Clark
Clark
I'm done with CA glue
- Thread starter Clark A.
- Start date
I remember glue that came in a small orange bottle with a syringe looking tip that worked the best for detailed gluing. I forget the name of it but I hope the description of the bottle helps. I just use testers glue and apply it with a tooth pick.
sorry odnt recognise it. CA is fabulous if its getting painted on. not when it ruins buildings that you spent 25 valuble dollars on
Hey Clark, don't throw it out yet. If it can't be repaired cover it up. If it's in a corner or such cover it with vines, If it is a large glob put it in the freezer, it then becomes brittle and you can pick it off. Just relax and think a little first. Old saying, "Where there is a will, there is a way. :thumb: JimAmbroid "ProWeld" styrene cement and LocTite Super Glue Gel Control are my right and left arm in all my modeling work. I use liquid CA on diesel loco handrail stantions only. When I was 13 CA was $7 a .5 oz. tube 
. I used 29 cent Testor's Plastic Cement glippity glop in a tube back then...ya live and learn 
. I used 29 cent Testor's Plastic Cement glippity glop in a tube back then...ya live and learn I can't recall the name of the company, but there is a CA glue out there that comes in a syringe-like tube that is dispensed by turning a screw at the back of the bottle that pushes a plunger into the glue, only dispensing a little bit--it's a lot nicer way to control the amount of glue one is dispensing.
When building a plastic building, model cement (MEK or something like that) is a lot better than super-glue--since it melts the plastic, it creates a much more permanent bond. CA is nice for gluing wood or metal, though, in places where Walthers Goo is not called for.
Paint can also cover a multitude of glue-inflicted sins.
When building a plastic building, model cement (MEK or something like that) is a lot better than super-glue--since it melts the plastic, it creates a much more permanent bond. CA is nice for gluing wood or metal, though, in places where Walthers Goo is not called for.
Paint can also cover a multitude of glue-inflicted sins.
Hi Clark, I don't use any type of "super"glue never have and never will.I use testors model cement that comes in the bottle or Walther's GOO for tougher jobs. :thumb:
I don't use any type of "super"glue never have and never will.I use testors model cement that comes in the bottle or Walther's GOO for tougher jobs. :thumb:My one prayer I think is to try to match the color and spray paint it. I'll try, and if that fails I'm out 25 bucks. There are worse things
Well its only the roof thats wrecked. i like the color of it so I want to match that. Its more of an asthetic thing.
Good luck Clark. If that doesn't work you can always shingle it by hand using fine grit wet/dry sandpaper. It looks great!
I'm with Shaygetz on this one - Ambroid Pro Weld, liquid glue is the best. It works through capillary action and dries in 10 seconds.
Val
I'm with Shaygetz on this one - Ambroid Pro Weld, liquid glue is the best. It works through capillary action and dries in 10 seconds.
Val
I never apply CA from the bottle to the project unless it is in an area that won't be seen, interior bracing for example. I put a drop on the plastic package detail parts come in or the top of a small yogurt container and use a piece of wire to apply the glue. At work we use a box, 24 bottles, every couple months or so.