How do you "paint" the edges of your parts?

How do you "paint" the edges of your parts?


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Rhaven Blaack

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Any advanced model builder will tell you that when making a model, you have to paint the edges.
As we all know, there are a few ways to do such. Here is a poll for all to share their tip & techniques in painting the edges of parts.

I am looking forward to seeing how everyone here does this simple task and what techniques they use for such.

Personally, I use watercolour paints (to match the colour of the parts as close as possible) and a "dry" brush to lightly paint the edges.
 
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mysteroid

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I've been using Sharpies mostly. I would like to start using paint to get closer color matches, however I'm just too lazy (which is why I use Sharpies)

In fact lately I haven't been edge coloring at all!

Steve
 

clif52

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I've used permanent markers but they sometimes bleed over into the print. Colored pencils work pretty well but sometimes bend the edge of the paper. I bought some pastel pencils to try.
Clif
 

Revell-Fan

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For me water colours are a must; with them I am able to match the colour I need perfectly.
 

Ron Caudillo

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I use felt tip markers only because the subjects I build (so far) have mostly grey or black edges. I have some metallic markers for a Dalek project in the works.

I'd like to try using watercolors, but would really like to see a nice tutorial (LOTS of pictures) on this before I attempt this.

Best Regards,
 

Revell-Fan

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Oh, using water colours is not that difficult, Ron. Just mix the desired tone and apply the colour to the edges with a fine brush. You can adjust the intensity the colour is applied by using more or less water and / or by harder / lighter pressing the brush onto the edge. Dry-brushing gives you the best control; even shadings are possible.
 

Isarmann

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I wonder if you'd tell me--- it's been years since I've touched a watercolor... When you talk about dry-brushing I'm not sure what exactly that is... I mean, is the watercolor also dry? Or is it that you mix the watercolors with water, but then allow very little to be on the brush when you paint? I don't quite understand the technique, just going by the name.
 

Rhaven Blaack

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The "dry brush" technique is where you have as little paint on your brush as possible, but still have enough to add colour to what you are wanting to paint. This allows you to control how much paint you apply to any given surface.
People who paint gaming figurines (strongly) use this technique. It is also used in weathering as well.

If you are using water colour paints, it is best if once you mix the colour that you want, allow the paint to dry out. Then dip the brush in water and "reactivate" the paint with the wet brush. You will only get a very small amount of paint and you can control how much you use at any given time.

GOOD LUCK with it!!!
 
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Isarmann

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Ahh, I see... Thanks for getting back on that, Rhaven. Now that I've heard the explanation, I do seem to have a dim memory rattling around of this--- I'm sure I heard it described a long time ago. I have never tried it myself, though. I have been interested in getting starting doing some added final textures/weathering, with dry chalks and such, so I do believe I will get myself a good watercolor set and see where this takes me. Thanks, guys... it's always gratifying to unexpectedly pick up a new direction to go in; new things to work with.
 

Rhaven Blaack

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You are more than welcome.
Helping others, posting ideas, information, tip & techniques, and learning new things is what this forum is all about!!!
 

starbuck

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The "dry brush" technique is where you have as little paint on your brush as possible, but still have enough to add colour to what you are wanting to paint. This allows you to control how much paint you apply to any given surface.
People who paint gaming figurines (strongly) use this technique. It is also used in weathering as well.

If you are using water colour paints, it is best if once you mix the colour that you want, allow the paint to dry out. Then dip the brush in water and "reactivate" the paint with the wet brush. You will only get a very small amount of paint and you can control how much you use at any given time.

GOOD LUCK with it!!!
By now I used Acryl colours, but my range is very small. Therefore I consider trying water colours especially after this very helpful explanation. THX
 

Rhaven Blaack

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There is nothing wrong with using acrylics. I have seen some REALLY FANTASTIC work that was done with acrylics.
The only thing is, once the acrylic paint dries out, you can not use it again.

GOOD LUCK!!!
 

Revell-Fan

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There are also water colour pencils. The tip is dipped in a bowl of water and the colour is applied. I haven't tried them yet because I'm fine with the brush technique. :)
 

subnuke

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When I first tried watercolors in the past year I was really impressed with how well they worked. I don't dry-brush them, neither do I use them as wet as artists. One thing to remember about using acrylics, they do darken when they dry. This makes it extremely difficult to exactly match during use.
 

Isarmann

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I recently started using paint brushes for glue... I had heard someone mention the precision and control they had using white glue diluted with water, and a brush--- not just control over amount and application, but they referred to a kind of constant control over the amount of water in the glue, and therefore the thickness and dry time. Well, I found a small device that I suppose is for painters to clip on to whatever they hold in their lap--- for me, a clipboard with a cutting mat on it is what I hold in my lap, and I found this doo-dad clips onto it perfectly... it has two metal cups on it, and I put some glue in one, and water in the other... to add water to the glue, I just dip the brush in the water and wipe it off on the edge of the glue cup, as you would with excess paint.

Lo and behold, I found that the modeler I heard discuss these things was right on the money--- there is that kind of constant control and choice going on... so like you, Revell-fan, mein freund, I would prefer to use traditional watercolors because I'm already into the brush thing, and I can see the same choice-and-control bit really applying to the watercolors; even more than it does with the glue.

I can see why some would like the pencil versions, and I have noticed those before... but some innovations like that strike me as offering a solution for a problem I have not yet seen. Some of the glue pens kind of strike me that way--- it's like they're saying, "Finally, precision and control with glue application," and I'm thinking, "What, did we not have that before?" I sometimes apply glue directly from the bottle, and I don't think it's that imprecise.

One innovative take on a familiar product that I do think is a great improvement is a particular CA glue. Krazy-glue offers CA glue in a form that is liquid, with a brush in the cap--- similar to a nail-polish brush, I suppose. They also slightly tint the glue purple--- but the tint disappears on curing, so the glue still dries clear! For me, these two features have really helped with the two things I sometimes had trouble with using CA glues--- controlling how much I applied, and (related problem) seeing it well enough to know it was on there, or how much was. The tinting is so light it's still not obvious where I put it, but I can see it a little, at least--- before the only way I could see it at all was to look for the shine of wetness on the paper.
 
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paper hollywood

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I've tried all the mentioned methods and prefer dry brushing paint with a small #1 Robert Simmons white synthetic watercolor brush. Instead of regular watercolors I've got a set of Talons Opaque Watercolors, which comes in dry pans on one of those long metal hinged lid sets.
 

zathros

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Edges, wha edges, I no see no stinkin' edges!