glue for large parts

arkon

Member
Aug 23, 2011
190
0
16
texas
trying to do star destroyer, and having problems laminating the printed sheet(110#carddstock ) onto posterboard,, it comes out all wavy and rippled. I could try n glue ribs to straiten it but would rather not if I don't have to. I have always used tite bond wood glue for most of my needs( I know not the best but I get it for free from work), but trying to glue the base triangle up and its wavy mess. I have placed flat weights on it and it still comes out crap. the model is star destroyer II by milliniumfalshood (sorry if I misspelled that).
I just want nice flat clean line on my big white dorrito. any suggestions or tips would be great. I know glue questions coe up all the time but have not found a solution yet.

thanks in advance for any help

Mike
 

Revell-Fan

Co-Administrator
Administrator
Moderator
Aug 1, 2009
7,747
5,658
113
Vreden
RULE #1: Do not use water-based glue when laminating such large parts.

Use "traditional" glue with solvents like UHU glue. Work in a well-ventilated area.

RULE #2: Use the glue sparingly. You may put some books on the parts while glue is curing to keep them straight, too.

:)
 
  • Like
Reactions: d5j4vu

zathros

-----SENIOR----
Administrator
Moderator
Apr 6, 2013
10,737
5,912
83
Spray adhesives tend to dry out over time, and the models fall apart. I used them often once, and would find models a year later with parts, or major seams come apart. I use ZIP DRY for stuff that's difficult to bond together, and UHU for everything else. Tite-Bond (Yellow stuff) is Elmer's Glue on Steroids, good for formers and the like, and when it cures, it is indestructible. If you use Tite-Bond, or have trouble with warping, you need to put the parts under have books to keep them flat, the cut the seams, or even separate and re-glue without any folds, use Saran Wrap to prevent damage to the books and prevent the parts from sticking to the books, as the glue will ooze out the edges, use the wrap on top and bottom, a sheet the size of the book! Reduce the part so there are no folds, this means cutting any part that bends into separate parts, a good practice anyways. This will allow for a better fit, sand the edges at a 45 degree angle so they fit and do not show a seam. The dry by book laminated parts will be strong as possible. The glues will not stick to the Saran-Wrap. :)
 

arkon

Member
Aug 23, 2011
190
0
16
texas
thanks to ll who replied
revel-fan, I know not to use water based glues, but its free so......
zathros. thanks for the tip about saran wrap, cuase it sticking no matter what glue I use was a real concern. and on this one I am getting rid of fold lines(hopefully)
just have to find me some uhu glue .
michaels or where?
 

zathros

-----SENIOR----
Administrator
Moderator
Apr 6, 2013
10,737
5,912
83
Michael's Craft Stores has UHU Glue and some have ZIP DRY also. You can glue leather to glass with ZIP DRY, which is non toxic, lignen free, it will not yellow. Also, I have asked (offered0 to pay for scraps of the poster board left offer from the frame work they do. Do it when no one else is there. I was given 20 lbs. of 40 mm card stock, the smallest piece 12" by 12", the biggest 3' x 2', for free!! The new manager will not let me buy it or give it to me, the a_s__h__le. I would have gladly paid for it, but they throw it away otherwise. I need to find their recycle bin/dumpster!! ;)
 

nero-on-fire

New Member
Apr 11, 2016
124
145
0
32
To add to this: Remember, when laminating one side with a large piece, this will cause the laminated side to curve a little because of the one-sided "wetness". Either, laminate both sides if possible, or place a weight (books etc.) onto the glued part to let it dry and stay in (flat) shape.
 

arkon

Member
Aug 23, 2011
190
0
16
texas
again thanks to all. I will try to apply my new found knowledge and hopefully have some build pics for all to enjoy.
 

zathros

-----SENIOR----
Administrator
Moderator
Apr 6, 2013
10,737
5,912
83
Questions are invitations to answers which end up helping many. :)