Received my Ceratosaurus skull 3D prints

df8c8jm-799f77a4-ceb1-4dd4-804d-a1686c64cc88.jpg


Also got started on my new PC build. It's a fairlymodest spec, a 6 core AMD Ryzen 5 APU with 16Gb Ram.
The old mechanical hard drive is temporary, got an M2 drive coming this weekend but I want to test this now.

It should mean I can finally move on from Blender 2.79 and onto the newer versions. Might add a proper GPU later.
The case was donated by a friend. I had to replace my previous desk and my old Antec 300 case is too tall for the new one. Might keep the case if the cooling is adequate.

pc_build_2022_01_by_strick67_df8c9zk-fullview.jpg


pc_build_2022_02_by_strick67_df8cb0r-fullview.jpg


pc_build_2022_03_by_strick67_df8cc6w-fullview.jpg
 

Revell-Fan

Co-Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Aug 1, 2009
10,213
9,908
228
Vreden
The results are spectacular! I think it is a big advantage to print fossilised bone models. Any visible print step can be disguised as part of the design.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Strick67
That looks great and verry real. You are doing such a great job on all your designs.
:bowdown:
Thanks.
The results are spectacular! I think it is a big advantage to print fossilised bone models. Any visible print step can be disguised as part of the design.
Thanks, these cheaper SLS and MJF prints from Shapeways are more grainy and the print lines are minimal. More expensive resin prints should be more detailed but might show more prominent lines though I haven't tried this yet. As it is I think it helps to show potential buyers that the cheaper processes produce decent results.

Few more photos, I'd better get painting this week.

df8g49a-2d89344e-c887-4667-954d-0bc3e6b52350.jpg


df8g4ad-e9259006-7caf-4b17-bd86-40f22533c83a.jpg


df8g4bb-653dc70f-5ad2-4b8a-bd63-f63b88b71d8a.jpg


df8g4di-3779ad9e-6439-464e-8943-94603e51a4d0.jpg
 

zathros

*****SENIOR ADMINISTRATOR*****
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Apr 6, 2013
12,614
8,116
228
Just a quick question, you're pulling the cube into shapes with "Control Points'? I saw the video, but a lot is left out. I am in awe of your work, and that you 3D print is Nylon is excellent.


I just finished a Ryzen 9 5800 series, water cooled, MSI MoBo, with around 5 Terabytes of storage. It's water cool, big radiator, never get hot. I have an M2 SSD, incredibly fast, but you can't defrag them, as it puts a great strain on them, so they don't end up being as fast as they were when they were new. I think these SSD hard drives have a definite short life. I only run programs on them and back up everything to the optical drives, I get about 5 years out of them. I also installed an "M" drive, which is considered "Archival" meaning they should last at least 1000 years. The discs were expensive though, but the smaller ones hold 25 Gigs of data. The larger capacity discs can hold 100 Gigs. The prices have come down substantially. They can be read by Blu-Ray, but need a "M" disc writer to write to them. It is write only. They can still suffer everything a regular CD can, but they will not delaminate, so if they are stored securely, much data can be stored away safely. :)

My PC:My PC.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20220703_074441_HDR.jpg
    20220703_074441_HDR.jpg
    642.2 KB · Views: 1
Just a quick question, you're pulling the cube into shapes with "Control Points'? I saw the video, but a lot is left out. I am in awe of your work, and that you 3D print is Nylon is excellent.
Thanks, my current method is a bit convoluted and mult-step-
  • I make a rough 'scaffold' sculpt, I usually approximate the form first but any shape could be used to start this off.
  • When I'm done with that I form a low-poly model over it. After paint sketching a rough layout for the topology I build this poly by poly in an empty object using face snapping to place vertices on the surface of the scaffold. The form can be tweaked by moving the vertices.
  • Once this is done I add a multi-resolution modifier, subdivide it a few times and sculpt the details on it.
Now I've got a spanky new PC I could probably drop the multi-res section and make these things as medium/high poly sculpts but I've always liked the subdivision modeling approach.
I just finished a Ryzen 9 5800 series, water cooled, MSI MoBo, with around 5 Terabytes of storage. It's water cool, big radiator, never get hot. I have an M2 SSD, incredibly fast, but you can't defrag them, as it puts a great strain on them, so they don't end up being as fast as they were when they were new. I think these SSD hard drives have a definite short life. I only run programs on them and back up everything to the optical drives, I get about 5 years out of them. I also installed an "M" drive, which is considered "Archival" meaning they should last at least 1000 years. The discs were expensive though, but the smaller ones hold 25 Gigs of data. The larger capacity discs can hold 100 Gigs. The prices have come down substantially. They can be read by Blu-Ray, but need a "M" disc writer to write to them. It is write only. They can still suffer everything a regular CD can, but they will not delaminate, so if they are stored securely, much data can be stored away safely. :)
Really nice PC, I'm quite envious.

Not too concerned about SSD longevity but I fancied trying one for OS drive, it is faster than I'm used to. I have friends who rave about boot and app startup speeds but these things have never been an issue for me. Having said that with my previous (14yr old) desktop, I used to turn it on then go and make a cup of tea while it was booting :).

pc_build_2022_05_by_strick67_df8px7b-pre.jpg


Assembled and painted these wooden toys with the grandsons

wooden_toys_01_by_strick67_df8px44-pre.jpg


wooden_toys_02_by_strick67_df8px5g-pre.jpg


wooden_toys_03_by_strick67_df8px5y-pre.jpg


wooden_toys_04_by_strick67_df8px6k-fullview.jpg
 

zathros

*****SENIOR ADMINISTRATOR*****
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Apr 6, 2013
12,614
8,116
228
My hats off to you with Blender. I just couldn't figure it out. I found Rhino 3D far more intuitive, and since I make arts for vehicles, boats, etc., I needed something I could use with dimensions. You're models are fantastic, and the 3D printed ones are fantastic. You have Blender all figured out. I would have to go through a step by steep tutorial, I tried that on YouTube, but I guess you can't teach an old dog new tricks. ;)
 
Painted the Ceratosaurus skulls yesterday, still need to make a stand for the big one.
Now I'm rushing to finish the photos. Wouldn't mind putting the model on Shapeways tomorrow, going on a family visit but I might get it done later in the day.
The hot pink background paper worked OK, going to add a bluish vignette round the edges.
 
Thanks to the new PC I'm finally able to move on from Blender 2.79 and have a play with newer versions, in this case Blender 3.2.

Thought I might have to buy a GPU but for the moment the Eevee renderer seems to work OK on my CPUs built-in graphics, these screen-grabs were done with Eevee but the results are similar with Cycles. The first thing I wanted to try to make was planets!

This was the first attempt at a rocky planet material I've tried to put everything into one BDSF shader. The atmosphere is a separate sphere containing clouds and cyan rim glow.

dfan1px-cc35d8f9-1af9-4758-8b5c-bbe0a8479d9f.jpg


The node graph for this is pretty simple (it's my first go). You can see I'm using procedural noise to drive a bunch of colour ramps. I'm using a clamped B&W ramp to make the continent mask. There's a second component to the land part that adds the mountain ranges.

dfan1ss-b2572cfb-e043-4d74-b8e8-9b5c2b931b0a.jpg


It was hard to get a good transition between land and water, more so when zoomed in. The second attempt uses 3 materials in one shader (5 if you count the mixers), a BDSF for the land and a simple diffuse/glossy mix for the water. This time the mask is separating shaders which gives a better specular transition. The land bump is too pronounced but it's less noticeable when the clouds are present. The clouds are a bit stretched, I was trying to get a wind-blown look.

planet_shader_2_atmos_by_strick67_dfan1yv-fullview.jpg


Here's what it looks like without atmosphere. The V2 land has 2 tone (forest & desert?) lowlands with raised grey mountains.

planet_shader_2_no_atmos_by_strick67_dfan2ai-fullview.jpg


The nodes are a bit more convoluted for this one. I'd still prefer to have everything within one shader in the material. probably baking to image textures is the way to go for surface details but I'd still need to use angle based effects for things like atmosphere glow and dark-side city lights.

dfan2e4-43455fb5-4bd9-4b94-afa2-f2632a4f283f.jpg