Combat Engineering Vehicle - IMR-1 'TEST SHOT' & Full Build

Revell-Fan

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Muchas gracias, if I make it too dark no-one will see anything, perhaps that's a good thing! ;) ...er then there's everyone on here who will see, bugger!
If it is too dark, dry-brush it with a light grey. That will bring out the details even more (and make the finished piece look like a briquette ;) ).
 

Revell-Fan

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Perusing the sheets which have turned up from the printers I have noticed the need for certain parts to be be thicker than the cardstock.

Quick calculations from one of my good friends at my model club suggests the sises are calculated a such - original file downloaded at 1/35th - my prints have been blown up to 200%, roughly 1/18th - what do you think, is my colleague correct?

View attachment 209482
I constantly have to do these caculations when I develop a model in different scales to determine the thickness of laminations. The results can drive @Rhaven Blaack crazy which is why I always encourage you to experiment. If you find a part needs to be thicker or thinner, just feel free to do so. :)
 

Chuffy70

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I constantly have to do these caculations when I develop a model in different scales to determine the thickness of laminations. The results can drive @Rhaven Blaack crazy which is why I always encourage you to experiment. If you find a part needs to be thicker or thinner, just feel free to do so. :)
Duly noted, and the 'real rust' is something I may look at...
 

micahrogers

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My mathilator is disabled.... the colors and effects you have picked look great to my Mk 1 Mod E eyeball.
 

zathros

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I scrap real rust into flat clear paint, making it thick, and it looks just like a rusty panel. If you sprinkle powered rust over a wet surface, and blow off the surplus, you get a good surface rust look. :)
 

Chuffy70

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Right, Its time to start on this kit, I'm probably going too deep here, as this will be my first foray into a subject I know little-to-nothing about, other than I thought it looked cool...and the Ukrainian Army are using these to help their fight.

Also the construction method of multi-layering/laminating is still a skill I'm yet to master.


Yet I am looking forward to it...If its not how it's supposed to look, then I'm not going to worry - my model, my rules, but I will try and stick to the instructions as much as possible, just in case any of you may be tempted to construct this model.

First off, get it printed - 21 sheets were collected from the Copy-shop, upscaled 200% from 1/35th, making a roughly 1/18th set of parts - these sheets contained over 1,300 parts for the tank and three for the tracks, that's another 1,274 - better order some more glue! This also does not include other mediums, such as wire and other assorted materials to add extra details.
B1.jpg

Tracks...thousand plus parts to look forward to :eek: For those of you who want to know, this machine was based on the early chassis of a T-55 tank which has 91 track links per side.
B2.jpg

I stuck a notice up to keep an eye my measurements and computations from my fellow model makers.
The asterisk of
* ** *** are my thickness scales to keep to.

B6.jpg

Certain breakfast cereal boxes had been hoarded over the last year for another project, but these have now been employed for the battle ahead.
Lots of UHU glue and a new set of digital calipers kept everything on a even keel.

B3.jpg

It took over a week to prepare the the parts for the first section of the instructions - gluing and putting them under pressure in shifts and giving them a full 24 hrs to cure - tedious and frustrating, but all part of the building process.
B5.jpgB4.jpg

I'm guessing it will take another day for me to cut and dry fit these parts together, running in at about 44 parts to make the main lower hull, with a few doubles, making 70 plus, with another 598 bolts/nuts... should be fun?
See you all in a few days...
 

Rhaven Blaack

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Models like these are extremely detailed and come with a TON of parts. I am looking forward to seeing how your build of this model turns out. I am certain that it will be a great guide for anyone who wishes to build this model in the future.
 

Chuffy70

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Models like these are extremely detailed and come with a TON of parts. I am looking forward to seeing how your build of this model turns out. I am certain that it will be a great guide for anyone who wishes to build this model in the future.
I hope so RB - if not it might turn into 'how not to' its certainly living up to the High Difficulty' level stamped on it. :skull
Holly smokes that are a lot of parts. Im sure you can handle this we will be waiting here to see your updates.
Just about as many parts as one of your Tie Fighters...thanks for tuning in :)
 
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micahrogers

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Good luck and gods speed!
Looks like your calculations are correct, and you are off to a good start.
I'll be watching this build.
:bowdown:
 
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Chuffy70

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Good luck and gods speed!
Looks like your calculations are correct, and you are off to a good start.
I'll be watching this build.
:bowdown:
Cheers. its currently staring me in the face, taunting me!

I can hear it saying... "come and a have a go, if you think you're brave enough!?"

Looking good!
So far, but it's only just about to start
 

Chuffy70

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Right with enough laminations and exhausting my stock of UHU it was time to start with the Hull.
Apologies first and foremost if I go back and fourth here, the nature of this build was tricky, and things were only found out via trial and error, so some of the photos are jumping around.

The Hull, comprising of thirteen parts was the first on the hit-list - I thought this would be fairly easy, famous last words!

Web capture_29-1-2023_16814_.jpg

Trimming the parts was easy, but some of these upscaled panels are nearly 4mm thick, roughly an 8th of an inch thick. Sharp scalpels and a steady hand needed.
20230122_113212.jpg

The main left and right Hull panels are comprised of three parts, the internal wall an inner wall and a upper panel.
The outer wall and inner have to be formed at the bottom first a with a curve - Cut where the scissors indicate 'roughly' Not entirely sure which line to take, I went back and fourth through the instructions and test fitting, so my choice cut was taken by the middle of the scissor graphic.

20230122_113313.jpg

Internal wall on the righthand side, some creasing occurred and a small amount of de-lamination in the process, but no too fussed, it won't be seen.
20230126_144811.jpg

For the forming I used a large piece of wooden dowel slowly easing the part over and along.
20230126_145439.jpg

The curve on the inner skin doesn't really have to be too precise, but the outer part of the Hull has to have a certain sweep - fast forward to the next stage was needed, as the running gear has to attach along some of the curve, so all the mounting points for this were cut and constructed to give me the correct angles.

20230126_145629.jpg

Parts formed to a certain degree, it was time to start attaching parts. NOTE the bottom of the hull (in the middle of the pic and not correctly orientated ) is NOT symmetrical - the left and right are stepped differently. I think this has something to do with the suspension set-up on this particular type, and as others have passed down knowledge to me, most Russian tanks have a odd way of doing things.

20230126_144715.jpg

To assist the internal contours, several templates are included 'dima' Italian translation.
20230126_144936.jpg

Before I added the hull sides, I wanted to get parts 11, 12 & 13 into place. These make up the wall between the engine compartment and the crew station.
20230126_152839.jpg

A dry fit of these earlier concluded these would be helpful in bringing the sides of the hull together, as the parts are wider than the hull bottom, however the parts themselves were less than exact.

20230126_145249.jpg
20230126_145255.jpg

In an effort to curb my thoughts as to whether these parts were correct or not, I fast forwarded to the internal panels and cut them out, thus putting my mind at rest 'all was good' - dry fit successful, the internal walls were glued into place.

20230126_152610.jpg

Wall inspection carried out by a friendly Tech.
20230126_160647.jpg

Side panels 3 & 4, the outers, which need to be flush with the bottom of the underside were added next, only the curved sections had glue, leaving the flat parts until the other had cured. I was going to glue them to parts 1 & 2 first, but decided the curved part would be easier to manipulate than two side panels together.
20230127_194240.jpg

Whilst this was drying, the rear bottom end plate part 8 needed the upper card layer removing, as I had failed to note the instruction to do so. Not that I minded, It was quite enjoyable to chip out.

20230128_154248.jpg


Attention turned to part two, to which I added 9 & 10 to the outer plating.
Web capture_29-1-2023_181557_.jpg

20230128_194651.jpg

The aforementioned running gear mounting points were cut and assembled, quite simple fold and paste items.
DULY NOTE the part numbers scrawled onto every single part - not all of these are the same, and as the parts are all one colour, part numbers are easier to identify rather than the part alone.

20230128_210034.jpg

Well there's the first installment of this vehicle.

First thoughts are yet to be decided, as this build is not quite straightforward at all - lessons are being handed out quicker than I can compute, so a slowly-slowly approach Is being taken.


Thanks for tuning in, we'll see you again next week when episode two makes a grown man cry!
 

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