cnw1961 challenge #1

I’ll get the detail parts for the car tomorrow bounce7 .

I decided against removing the roofwalk before painting the car. I don’t want to glue the roofwalk to the roof when it is already painted. I don’t know how other modelers manage to glue painted parts without spoiling them, I can’t. Even if i carefully apply the glue with a toothpick, I mess it up. The best way for me is to assemble the car and paint it afterwards. Now that the roofwalk will stay on the roof, I added those supports to the ends of the roofwalk.

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Excellent work... :thumb: :thumb:

How long has it taken you to reach this point? For comparison, I read (in MR, I think) about a competition between shops on some railway or other to build a complete outside braced wood boxcar. They had 8-man crews, and a pile of lumber and various metal shapes to start, as well as trucks, couplers, etc. The winning team built theirs in 28 hours, not including painting...!

Did you consider using styrene siding for the car?

Andrew
 
I don’t know how long it has taken me to get to this point, but I don’t think that I have a chance to beat those 28 hours. But hey, it’s not fair, they had an 8-man crew and the small size of my car makes it even more difficult :) . I planned to use styrene for the metal parts and wood for the wooden parts of the car right from the beginning. I think (or hope) the wood will make it look more prototypical even after painting.
 
I got the detail parts today and couldn’wait to go on. I ordered Tichy’s wood box car doors (#3017). They don’t exactly match the doors of the DRGW prototype I try to model, because they need a lower door track. But I found a CP boxcar with these doors. And again, no rivet counting, I’ll mix the style of these two cars.

OK, here we go. First I cut the upper door track that comes with the doors to a length of 2". Then I glue it to the roof of the car.

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Next, I cut .080 x .012 strips and a piece of 1.22 x 1 x .012 styrene for the base of the braces and the door. In the next pic you can see it all glued in place.

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Now I assembled the lower door tracks. To adjust the height of the door tracks, I glued them to .020 styrene before assembling.

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The next step is to add the braces. They are made of .040 x .040 styrene. Only the two braces on the right side of the doors have to be thinner (.040 x .020).

Boxcar25.jpg
 
Before I added the doors, I glued pieces of .020 styrene to the backsides of the doors to make them fit perfectly under the upper door tracks. Et voilá, here it is, with all the braces and the doors in place.

Boxcar26.jpg

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Lynn, thank you for your nice words. I don’t think that all types of cars are suitable for scratch building, but I doubt if I will ever buy a wood boxcar again. Before I started this project, I didn’t know if this car would be good enouh to make it on to my layout, now I like it much more than my accurail cars, although a lot of detail parts are still missing.
 
Well if you decide for some crazy reason what so ever that it doesn't fit into your layout sender on over to me I'd be more than willing to find a home for it on my layout sign1
 
Thank you, guys. Gary, I don’t think it is too difficult to build this car, but it takes a lot of time. It swallows up nearly all of my modeling time at the moment.
Miles, I might consider to make a Gauge boxcar – if I ever do it again.
 
I spent the last two day adding details. I used .012 wire for the grab irons and the coupler cut bars. The ladders and stirrups are from Tichy’s. The next step will be to add the brake parts.

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