I honestly have no idea how y'all make these things look so perfect... No, actually I do know how... Years of practice. 
BSG TOS Viper Mk 1 1/48 by Revell-Fan
- Thread starter micahrogers
- Start date
One thing I do on something like that engine block is to make an inner core out of at least 0.5mm thick stock...then that will get you a nice hard surface to glue the outer skin to, and you can even cut the parts apart and glue individually...just make sure to allow for overlaps on the corners.
I got the Engine cradle thing complete...
It ain't pretty, but it'll do.
and attached to the front half.
And Mr Amazon gave me an unexpected surprise today... The final set of The Army Painter Nolzur's Marvelous Pigments Paints for D&D. 10 unique colors, only available as D&D branded paints. The Underdark set, and it comes with another Gale Force 9 exclusive miniature.
Looks like tomorrow I start on the canopy and underside?
It ain't pretty, but it'll do.
and attached to the front half.
And Mr Amazon gave me an unexpected surprise today... The final set of The Army Painter Nolzur's Marvelous Pigments Paints for D&D. 10 unique colors, only available as D&D branded paints. The Underdark set, and it comes with another Gale Force 9 exclusive miniature.
Looks like tomorrow I start on the canopy and underside?
The engine block is good. It doesn't need to be too precise except for the visible areas (Y-piece and the "shouders" with the wire texture) and the front. The concave bits will later be beefed up with card, so you will be able to adjust any wonkiness pretty well. If you have difficulty holding up the flaps when you attach the canopy don't worry too much about that either and edge-glue it into place.
Basically, yes. The layering gives the edge of the frame the Revellogram is missing. However, if it is too difficult just skip it. The model will look fine.
Okay, I can layer the canopy, it's just not covered in the directions.
I forgot to do piece 12, the rear shelf thingie, so I'm working on it now.
I did piece 12 almost done,
then smooshed it...
reprinted it
and piece 12 take 2...
I was sorely tempted to throw the whole thing on the trash heap and give it a proper burning, but I decided to soldier on.
I forgot to do piece 12, the rear shelf thingie, so I'm working on it now.
I did piece 12 almost done,
then smooshed it...
reprinted it
and piece 12 take 2...
I was sorely tempted to throw the whole thing on the trash heap and give it a proper burning, but I decided to soldier on.
Piece 12, the rear shelf thing is done and installed, how do you cut out those little bitty circles? Hole punch? I just nibbled the part around the edges till it looked round.
This Aleene's Fast Grab Tacky Glue is a Godsend.
All I had to layer with is old model box tops, so I used 1 layer and 2 layers.
The aft end done.
This Aleene's Fast Grab Tacky Glue is a Godsend.
All I had to layer with is old model box tops, so I used 1 layer and 2 layers.
The aft end done.
Got he bottom plate, for the undercarriage laminated to two thicknesses of my model box top, as well as the rails, and it all assembled.
I spent the day driving up to visit my mother in law, 3 hours there and 3 hours back, so not much modeling done today.
I spent the day driving up to visit my mother in law, 3 hours there and 3 hours back, so not much modeling done today.
so my next question, How do you edge color the cardboard? should it be white? grey? or leave it be?
It depends on the colour of the cardboard that you used. If you used cereal boxes (or recycled cardstock that had been printed on), paint the edges either white or a very light grey. If you used white cardstock (that had not been used or printed on), you can either leave it "as-is" (white) or paint it a light grey.
Okay, I can do that, as my wife says "He's got a million colors of grey".
And the skid underside made, with the angled front piece, and attached.
It looks VERY good. Don't worry about the colouring. See it as natural weathering. As long as it is not bright green or yellow or such you are fine with the way it is.
Adding detail to the fuselage, Part 27 is just a lamination add detail the fuselage upper area,
The canopy is made with the Apogee simple part 28A, and part 28 cut to represent the raised frame,
Part 29 is the hump behind the canopy, it was formed, and attached to the rear of the canopy, then glued to the fuselage.
The canopy is made with the Apogee simple part 28A, and part 28 cut to represent the raised frame,
Part 29 is the hump behind the canopy, it was formed, and attached to the rear of the canopy, then glued to the fuselage.
I realized I had the canopy mechanism box mounted too high, so I carefully removed it,
and re attached it in the proper location.
I have the wing calibration parts laminated to 1 mm card, under the board to keep them flat.
And I made me another Zealot cube while I wait for glue to dry on laminations.
and re attached it in the proper location.
I have the wing calibration parts laminated to 1 mm card, under the board to keep them flat.
And I made me another Zealot cube while I wait for glue to dry on laminations.