Best thing to strengthen

[seraphim]

Howdydo all
So im attempting to get back into this monster project and it might be a bit of a late question in the game, but what dyou guys fins best to strengthen joints/seams/surfaces on your builds? Although alot of builds have their own internal 'skeleton' frames, there are ofc those that dont - and looking at certain joints - especially where a larger part joins to a smaller part (that may well be weight bearing) i was wondering the best method to add strength either through or to the surface of (these) parts so that the build doesnt want to collapse under its own weight. Generally ill be laminating/layering certain parts but then what about parts that have a much smaller/finer area? (ie narrow/thin/long/fine detail) Alot of kits tend to have a large part joining a smaller/finer part (a hand to a thin arm/leg/hip joint/ engine nacelle to strut etc) and this always has me scratching my head lol
Any ideas are awesome

 

[ennder]

I use CA glue (super glue). but I have to use a respirator because of the fumes. So use in a WELL ventilated area.
Or you could (after the model is built) spray it with clear (gloss or matt) lacquer. this works well when you apply several coats.

I know there are other ways... but I don't know them.... sorry

oh... also the CA glue "plasticizes" the paper as it soaks in.

 

[Rhaven Blaack]

If you have room to do so, you can layer pieces of cardstock over the seams sto strengthen them. You can also create your own internal formers (based on the shape of the object).

 

[mijob]

For the big parts like cilinder or box shapes I use internal formers. For small boxes I use corner tabs. I also use multi layering for panels. CA glue I use for consructions.

 

[seraphim]

thankyou guys

 

[Revell-Fan]

Push some weights at the gym to -

Oh, sorry. I misread the title.

I use scrap pieces of corrugated card and laminate them to the inside of the parts. They get pretty strong that way as you can see here:

WALL-E!

Just thought I should leave a footprint in this section..! ;) :D One of my colleagues is leaving the company next week. I have made it a habit that colleagues who are leaving will get a paper model from me. Usually it is the Canon Lucky Cat (with or without sweets inside ;) ) but this time...

www.zealot.com

 

[zathros]

I have a 40-year-old model of a sailboat I used to own It was only 16 feet long, (the model was 10" inches long) but the actual boat was around 30 years old, 40 years ago. I used CA, "Crazy Glue" to stiffen the Hull. This was done outside, and I left it there till the smell went away. This was a very long time ago. As my work took my into machining composites, I found out that Cyanide, a major component of "Crazy Glue" builds up in your system and can cause all kinds of problems when you get older. Now I am older and have lung issues. Every thing I did when I was young and dumb and full of .............motivation, is coming back to haunt me. The Hull of that model has never warped. One of the seats came out, but that was glued using a "normal" glue. It's somewhere in my basement, something else to get to. I don't use any type of cyanoacrylate type glue anymore now. There are many viable alternatives. The stuff is amazing though.

I glued a piece of cast iron that broke off of an alternator pulley on my '73 M.G., and 40 years later, and 10s of thousands of miles, it's still holding. I did use an accelerant with the CA Glue. It can be amazing a glue, but I only use it on automobiles, and outside.

 

[spaceagent-9]

I am working on something with this very problem! I will be using cut strips instead of tabs, and then gluing twice on the seam, and Styrofoam inside to help bear the weight. In the past I have also used painting tape to ensure the seam over the cut strips.