Battlestar Galactica Power Sled (Chariot) in 1:50 scale
- Thread starter Rhaven Blaack
- Start date
Now to focus on the details and greebles for the side panels and the back end.
Here are the parts for the side panels and and the back end.
The main side panels are attached.
The lamel panels are attached.
The "D" rings are attached.
Now time for the tail end. I attached the plate that runs the full length of the back end.
*NOTE* At this point the builder can either continue on with all of the greebles (which is what I am doing), or can leave it "as-is".
There are tail lights that go on the back. You have two options. Option one: You can use the flat "bracket piece and put it in place and cut the lens out and put it in place over the bracket. Option two" You can use the parts that that will forge out the light fixture (that have to tope and bottom (trapezoid) shrouds) and fold the parts into shape, then put the lens in place and attach the part accordingly.
As you can see, I chose the second option.
*NOTE* This is 1:50 scale and I am using 0.22mm thick cardstock.
Yes, that is my finger to show the actual size of the light fixture.
The light fixtures are attached.
I attached the rest of the greebles.
Please stay tuned in to your local Colonial Broadcast Network for further updates and they happen.
Here are the parts for the side panels and and the back end.
The main side panels are attached.
The lamel panels are attached.
The "D" rings are attached.
Now time for the tail end. I attached the plate that runs the full length of the back end.
*NOTE* At this point the builder can either continue on with all of the greebles (which is what I am doing), or can leave it "as-is".
There are tail lights that go on the back. You have two options. Option one: You can use the flat "bracket piece and put it in place and cut the lens out and put it in place over the bracket. Option two" You can use the parts that that will forge out the light fixture (that have to tope and bottom (trapezoid) shrouds) and fold the parts into shape, then put the lens in place and attach the part accordingly.
As you can see, I chose the second option.
*NOTE* This is 1:50 scale and I am using 0.22mm thick cardstock.
Yes, that is my finger to show the actual size of the light fixture.
The light fixtures are attached.
I attached the rest of the greebles.
Please stay tuned in to your local Colonial Broadcast Network for further updates and they happen.
The sticks and levers are a little bit bigger than they are supposed to be. But since they are extremely hard to build at this scale this is a compromise we all have to accept. I will port them over to the 1/32 version without re-scaling them which will look more authentic then. The larger versions will get bigger sticks. 
A small preview of the things to come!
Yep, after a long deviation I'm "home" again!
What a bizarre looking thing! I really should shove that boxset in and get to grips with the tv series
nice job though all the same...love the tiny details!
nice job though all the same...love the tiny details!
Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,
It is time that I update this thread (especially since @Revell-Fan has done such a wonderful job on these upgrades for this model!).
I started with the undercarriage and drive box. Here are the parts (and formers).
The undercarriage and drive box are assembled.
The undercarriage and drive box are attached.
Here are the parts for the rear tow hook.
I layered the parts to make it look more "realistic".
The rear tow hook is attacked.
Please stay tuned in to your local Colonial Broadcast Network for further updates and they happen.
It is time that I update this thread (especially since @Revell-Fan has done such a wonderful job on these upgrades for this model!).
I started with the undercarriage and drive box. Here are the parts (and formers).
The undercarriage and drive box are assembled.
The undercarriage and drive box are attached.
Here are the parts for the rear tow hook.
I layered the parts to make it look more "realistic".
The rear tow hook is attacked.
Please stay tuned in to your local Colonial Broadcast Network for further updates and they happen.
Moving on to the drive wheels and bogie wheels.
Here are the parts for the axles, drive wheels and bogie wheels.
(*NOTE* For the axles, you can use cocktail toothpicks, of you want added strength and rigidity.)
The axle and drive wheel parts are assembled.
Even though the previous picture shows the axle, I am using a cocktail toothpick instead.
The drive wheels and axle are attached in place.
Here are the bogie wheels.
Now attaching the bogie wheels and axles in place.
All four sets of bogie wheels are now in place!
Please stay tuned in to your local Colonial Broadcast Network for further updates and they happen.
Here are the parts for the axles, drive wheels and bogie wheels.
(*NOTE* For the axles, you can use cocktail toothpicks, of you want added strength and rigidity.)
The axle and drive wheel parts are assembled.
Even though the previous picture shows the axle, I am using a cocktail toothpick instead.
The drive wheels and axle are attached in place.
Here are the bogie wheels.
Now attaching the bogie wheels and axles in place.
All four sets of bogie wheels are now in place!
Please stay tuned in to your local Colonial Broadcast Network for further updates and they happen.
- Apr 5, 2013
- 13,499
- 9,551
- 228
With the work you put into the wheels, I offer my .02 cents worth. Cut out the boxes in the tracks, and the cross strips should be greebled up by gluing long rectangles on the strips (or stacking strips for the same effect). Those Thiokol tracks were made that way. They actually unbolted for removal and replacement, if they got damaged or dull. That will allow your wheels to b e seen better and give the model a very nice touch. You can see how the wheels were kept on the tracks looking inside and seeing the hard rubber pins that centered the wheels in that grove, and how the "Staar" drive wheel worked by fitting and pushing against the rectangles.
I copied the whole structure with the texture. You can easily beef up those strips by adding additional layers. But please keep in mind that this is 1/50. The whole vehicle will fit inside your palm when it is done, so @Rhaven Blaack is doing a phenomenal job with it!!!With the work you put into the wheels, I offer my .02 cents worth. Cut out the boxes in the tracks, and the cross strips should be greebled up by gluing long rectangles on the strips (or stacking strips for the same effect). Those Thiokol tracks were made that way. They actually unbolted for removal and replacement, if they got damaged or dull. That will allow your wheels to b e seen better and give the model a very nice touch. You can see how the wheels were kept on the tracks looking inside and seeing the hard rubber pins that centered the wheels in that grove, and how the "Staar" drive wheel worked by fitting and pushing against the rectangles.
View attachment 206066
Thank you, all!!!
The actual tracks are next on the agenda.
The actual tracks are next on the agenda.
- Apr 5, 2013
- 13,499
- 9,551
- 228
Even at that small scale, knowing Rhaven's abilities, he can easily do this, thin wooden matches would work. These tracks are still used on many vehicles, as they are easy to repair. In a model that small, with detailed tracks, it would make the model supremely stick out. I'm well aware of the work and effort, but all of that falls to naught on any tracked vehicle if the tracks aren't detailed enough.