1960 Plymouth Valiant build thread.

[Mark Crowel]

I plan to show my whole design process, warts and all. First, I make a raw drawing. I want a scale of about 1/2 inch to the foot, so I draw a one inch diameter circle with a circle gauge, for the wheel. Then, looking at reference pictures such as ad drawings and photos of the real car, I draw a profile in proportion to that wheel.

After the profile drawing is made, on a strip of paper I make tick marks to measure the heights of any features (splash pans, bumpers, grilles, lights, etc.) that will show in the lateral (end) views. The raw drawing is where I am free to make any necessary corrections.

 

[mijob]

Nice I love old school. thumbsup

 

[micahrogers]

Many years ago, I did this kind of technical drawing. I wish I still had all the stuff to do that. I HATE thieves.

 

[Mark Crowel]

Old school drafting tools. (You younger fellows might have seen these in a museum)

 

[Mark Crowel]

A rough sketch to show my design rationale (in other words: why do Mark's cars have such fat sides?). When I was teaching myself to scratch build my own model cars, I needed to redefine the cars' designs in a way that is easy for me to plan and build within my skill limits. Most cars can be divided into a center section and side sections. To avoid complex and hard to form shapes, I divide the car's body into three parallel-sided, profile shaped boxes. The drawing shows the front view of an average car.
On a real car, the sides and center section usually blend together, but, when the car's components are defined in their basic forms, the center section is a box that sits between the two side section boxes. When I look at the ends of a car, I imagine vertical lines drawn from the edges of the roof, straight down to the ground, hence the proportions of the car's sections in relation to each other. Accuracy-wise, it's an over-simplification, but with regard to the raw relationships of the components to each other, it works. Somewhere deep in the archives of this forum are photos of a Studebaker Avanti that I did this way.

 

[micahrogers]

Alas, a lot of the old stuff on here was lost by a data dump when the forum was moved from TapATalk to the current platform. Admins can elaborate more if wanted. Your three box system is actually how cars were designed back in the day.

 

[Revell-Fan]

Your procedure is very interesting. I'm looking forward to seeing more!

And: Welcome back, Mark!

 

[mijob]

Old school drafting tools

That makes me an old timer as wel (1969). Still got those and the ink pens too.

Like Revell im looking forward to see morethumbsup

 

[Revell-Fan]

That makes me an old timer as wel (1969). Still got those and the ink pens too.

Like Revell im looking forward to see morethumbsup

1969 - second best year after 1977 (Apollo / Star Wars)!

 

[micahrogers]

LOL, for me it's 65,

 

[Revell-Fan]

LOL, for me it's 65,

Not bad either ("Flight of the Phoenix").

 

[Mark Crowel]

Thank you, all. I'm still unpacking after a recent move, but if I can dig up any of my photos of my Avanti models, I'll scan and post them.

So, after the raw drawing comes the tracing. I tape tracing paper to the raw drawing and trace, making any needed revisions., I then flip the tracing paper over, and trace the opposite side of the image, to make both sides identical. With the end views, that means folding them over and tracing them, so that when they are unfolded, I have full width end views. My front view looks a little sloppy, because I didn't allow enough tracing paper beyond the tracing for a full fold-over, so I had to tape more tracing paper in place. I can fix this later. As I said, this thread would show all the warts!

 

[Mark Crowel]

Dug up some old photos of two Studebaker Avanti models I built. They show the basic three-section method of design break-down that I use. When I first thought of trying this method on an Avanti, I wasn't sure it would work, because of the way the real car's sides blend up into the sides of the passenger compartment. The first Avanti model I built was just a single profile shaped parallel-sided box, and it totally lacked personality. With a "here-goes-nuthin'" attitude, I tried doing it in three sections, and DANG!, it worked.

 

[Mark Crowel]

Next, I made two photocopies of the profile drawing onto 110 lbs. cardstock, so I could cut out a pattern for the side sections, and for the center section. These were glued to lightweight cardboard, of the type often found on the backs of writing tablets, or legal pads. It's smooth, and about 1/32 of an inch thick. That's all for today. Tomorrow I'll cut those out, and trace the parts pieces around them. As for now, it's Sunday evening. Time for a nap, then later some roasted chicken and wine, and a good movie ("No Time for Sergeants").

 

[Mark Crowel]

The panel parts are traced around the patterns, onto 1/32 inch thick cardboard. The parts are cut to the insides of the lines, because they are, of course, somewhat larger than the patterns around which they were traced.

The panel pieces are cut (these are for the side sections):

 

[Mark Crowel]

It's time to cut and shape the strips that will join the panels together. 1/32 inch thick cardboard, 1/2 inch wide strips for the side sections.

Cardboard has a grain, as does wood. You can find the grain by flexing the cardboard in each direction. Any piece that will have to curve or bend should be cut so that the grain is is compatible with the direction of the curve or bend. Cardboard can be curved by rolling something round along its length, such as a dowel, pencil or pen. It will hold its curve. Bends should be scored to be clean and crisp.


Shown is a side panel with a curved and scored strip waiting to be glued to it.

 

[mijob]

roasted chicken and wine

clean and crisp.

crisp chicken and clean wine. Love this build....

 

[Mark Crowel]

Now to build the side section, or pontoon, as auto stylists call it. The strip is glued edge-to-edge (or "butt-glued" ) to the perimeter of the panel. The cardboard is thick enough to make that fairly easy. Do about an inch at a time. I use Elmer's glue, and I hold each segment in place about 15 seconds to give the glue time to set. At the rear of this pontoon are a couple of small, tedious angles. Rather than use a longer continuous strip through this area, it's easier to maneuver and keep things fitting right if this area is pieced in with small sections (first two photos, this post).

I glued reinforcement braces into the pontoon ( third photo shows these well). The fourth photo shows the completed pontoon.

 

[Mark Crowel]

Dry fit of the completed sections. Now to pick a color. Any suggestions, anyone?

 

[zathros]

Your models, to me, seem like art cubism. It is the car in basic primitives. Many cars start like this, then they are built up with clay. You definitely have a unique style, and I like it.