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chad in your drawing the tail track is not joined to any other track once it leaves the main. if this is the case all you need is a DPDT switch as the loco has to stop to reverse direction and the turnout changed. having an automatic reversing unit in this situation is definitely not necessary.

looks good it is difficult to have everything lined up and then stay in place while you solder. I made a jig of sorts by glueing some balsa strips to a fasttracks template. it is not as precise as their jig would be but i found it a great help to keep things in place

more on my earlier post. I use a DPDT slide switch to manually control the turnout and change polarity when entering the tail track from the left as you line up the turnout it will be the same polarity as the main. upon leaving the tail if you wish to go right the turnout is changed...

gap at A so the turnout and tail track are isolated from the rest. other gaps at frogs as normal then feed the approach tracks past the frogs

on my wye the approach tracks are wired as normal and I use a DPDT switch to change the direction of the tail track when the switch is thrown as the train must stop to reverse direction and the turnout has to be thrown this works very well

whatever you use make sure you leave it lower than the rails makes it much easier to clean the track without taking off any paint etc

welcome to the forum good to see another posting from downunder

thanks nomad a fantastic diorama hard to imagine that the figures would be about 12 inches tall would love to see it in person followed the links to some other similar sites which also are inspirational

have just spent 3 days locating a short. my layout started small and has grown over the years to what would now be classed as medium to large. 2 levels area about 20 x 10 with a 10 x 10 transition area. as I operate alone I didn`t worry about isolating sections [ blocking ] because if a train...

you would need at least 12" clearance from the lower level. to rise 12" would take 25ft at 4% 33ft4" at 3% I operate with a grade of about 3% and don`t have any problems if you have enough room a helix is possible if you have plenty of power and short trains even 4% shouldn`t be a...

try this site www.gregorybraun.com/RRTrains

just googled "scale conversion calculator" and came up with a couple of sites give it a try

when I lay curved track I lay a length of flex leaving about 6" on the end which is left straight. then I solder on the next length of track after removing 2 or 3 ties keeping the track straight as I do so. I then curve the rail and continue in this manner. works for me.

thanks b28 82 I must admit I like to do things as simply as possible. doesn`t always work out but this one did.

just a question for the experts. if the command station was situated in the middle of the layout and went 30 ft in each direction would that be better ?

just realised this post should be in the tips & tricks sub forum. how do I get it shifted?

as can be seen I have to duckunder the upper level to enter the room. as this is the only duckunder and is 51" high it is not a problem.

was having trouble posting photos yesterday so will try again this is the door from both sides

wiring diagram

other side http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb275/hewitttrev/100_0166.jpg