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I'd agree with that. Looks very period. Shouldn't be too hard to paint. Heck you can even brush paint the sills and pilots, since they'd be flat black anyway. So when do you start painting? :-P

I'd run a separate wire to each place you are wanting to feed with power. It's way more foolproof to have a direct wire connection than to rely on rail to carry a charge that far. Interestingly, a club I once belonged to has a separate feeder wire soldered to EVERY independent piece of rail. I...

I use the same rust colors, however, it varies from place to place. Many mainlines have a dull grey-brown mix, or a grimy grey-black. A safe bet is to either mix your rust color with some grimy black, or buy some browns that are a bit darker than your rust.

Tony's has bargain decoders for $15. Jeremie, there is no reason to spend $80 on a non-sound decoder. I've never spent for than $30 per, and that was name brand and list price. Now, SOUND decoders are NOT cheap. Those will likely be up in that $80 range or higher, depending on manufacturer. As...

One Good Engine. There's no point in having tons of junk. And once you get quality, you'll never regret having it.

Well you could make the main body either that NYC grey or black. Or you could paint the sills and pilots black. Either would be easy changes to make it not 100% green yet still retain the green band. I still suggest going all caps on the roadname. It's more typical of that era. Either way...

Great minds think alike? POTB SD9: http://www.nrhs.com/nrhsconv/2005conv/tillamook.jpg

The paint scheme looks a bit too modern. It's also probably not going to be as easy to mask as you may think, with two stripes needing to be aligned parallel and one of them going up over the roofline. How about a simple green stripe the height of the battery boxes, surrounding the entire...

Very impressed, Harold! I like how you got inventive with materials to weather with. I may have to try this on something!

Yes, I buy new equipment. I also buy used. Or to answer it better, I buy the kind of cars and engines I need, regardless of source. Condition is improtant. I will not buy locomotives that do not run or have damage. On cars, I will not buy cars that have parts missing or are damaged, unless it's...

No, not anymore. I used to take trains for running on local clubs, but it became too much of a pain. Some run DC, some run DCC, the DCC ones always used 4 digit programming while I was using two. I got tired of removing shells to swap into and out of DC mode and got tired of reprogramming the...

I used to build only kits, like most people when they were n00bs. Later I started kitbashing. Then, as my track designs became more and more precise to specific locations (or types of locations) I began needing more and more custom buildings. Nowadays I use whatever I can find that fits my...

Jet, the drawing is not 100% to scale accurate as far as the track drawing goes, thanks to it being cobbled togetehr in a cheap graphics program. According to my measuring tape, that tail track measures 13.25 inches from the ends of the points on the switch to the wall. This layout is built...

Jet, are you referring to my plan?

It works. Straight alcohol, wetting it down. Once it's soaked through, very dilluted glue and 12 hours of drying time. Don't rush it! And don't do more than about 1-2 feet at once. It's the best most painless method I've ever used, and it made me stop hating ballasting.

Forgot to post my plan: 15ft x 1ft, HO.

No. You want 2 bay hoppers. Cement is heavier than grain. Atlas makes a PS2 2-bay that is suitable for cement use. There's also some ACF style 2-bays that are on the market, I beleive they are made by Athearn now.

Nice to see someone using JA's Givens and Druthers! There was a layout in Model Railroader in the March 1995 issue called the Arcadia Terminal, I beleive. It sounds much like your description of the turnback-loop style. The issue: http://www.trains.com/mrr/default.aspx?c=i&id=2&iid=124 This...

I've always used matboard, but wow, that shingle technique has me wanting to tear my roads up.

The new Railroads game seems to be actually about the same as RT3. Most reviewers are now suggesting it's *less* flexible than RT3, but simpler to play. For my money, RT2 is still better on gameplay than RT3. Unfortunately, nobody has yet created a railroad game that truly captures all the...