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The first layer of paint has been added. I used RAL 3000 (fire-red) acrylic paint. Make sure that it is not water-based paint or you will ruin your hull.

Here is a closeup of the stern planking. It was a bit tricky to get it on, but I finally managed to get it straight. Before painting, the rudder and the shaft tunnel will be added.

Now the hull planking has been added and already sanded to flatten any protruding seams. I will paint the underwater hull, so I didn't bother coloring any white edges.

After everything has properly dried, paper strips are added to the frames to aid in glueing the hull planking. The red strips were provided in the kit, the white strips are my own additions. Well, they really are Scorpios idea, but they proved to be vital!

It is vital to sand the edges of the frames so that they follow the form of the hull. In the image below you can see how it should look like.

Now the underwater part of the framework is prepared and laid out. Make sure you check all frames for symmetrie during a dry fit. Next, the framework is glued below the waterline plate of the already completed framework.

The next step is adding the upper parts of the framework and the deck. This is shown in the next picture. No big miracles here, everything fitted nicely.

Hello fellow card modelers, I am currently building Digital Navy's Oregon and I want to share some techniques with you that I will use during the build. The methods are greatly influenced by the way Scorpio builds his models and I wanted to check out if "normal" people can put them to use...

Hi Ted, this is a great project. I am planning something like that with another MM model myself. Two obervations though, that may help you: Before glueing the hull sides, the deck should be in place. It is nearly impossible to achieve the correct placement of the hull plating without...

Hi friends, as somebody who has seen Udo's kit in person (the one that is being built on the kartonbau.de site), I can assure you that it surely is an impressive model. The parts are "black and white". Shall mean, there is no coloring or texture on them, just the outlines - which is part...

Jim, on behalf of Christoph, let me answer your questions. The placement of the funnel stays was determined from photos of the original. The stays were made from streched plastic sprue - as was the complete rigging by the way. Also on Rodney and Bismarck I used the same material by the way...

Barry, I am also following your build over on kartonbau.de and I must congratulate you for reaching the top. Good job! I just wonder why this ship didn't topple over and what happened when the elevator was out of order. And just imagine the movements of the topmost bridge in heavy sea...

Yes, an upgrade kit would be nice - or a discount for customers of the older version? Keep up your good work! best regards, Michael

Friends, allow me to post some information on Maly Modelarz kits. These kits are designed for youngsters. They are frequently used in schools in Poland to be constructed during "craftmanship" classes. That explains the sometimes more simple design. It's a totally different category...

I would like to announce the availability of my latest paper model at www.cardinspace.com. It is a detailed model of the Mercury Redstone MR-3 in 1:48 scale. As always, it is a free download. regards, Michael

Tim, may the center mark be with you :lol: It shall be done - I haven't spotted they are missing because I don't have a circle cutter yet... Planning to buy one for a long time now, but somehow I never make it. Michael

Thanks for the nice comments. Well, I indeed have a new model in the works. Following the natural order, it will be a Mercury Redstone... There's also the Apollo LEM in an early design stage, but that one will take a while... Michael

My first shot at designing a card model: Mercury Little Joe, 1:48 Free download at www.cardinspace.com greetings, Michael