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  1. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    And here is the stern with the propellers mounted. As designed, both screws would have turned in the same directions. I changed that to a left-left, right-right scheme as visible on photos of the original. The propellers were painted with Modelmaster Metalizer Copper.
  2. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    Thanks Roman, you are too good to us... Today was "fiddly bit" day. I added all the small parts that go on the port hull side. Here's a view of the bow.
  3. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    Hi Busyguy, I will certainly do that if I can find out if I'm allowed to... Roman? regards, Michael
  4. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    ...different perspective, same good fit. One important thing to remember when fitting the hull sides is that you should only apply glue to the top and bottom edge of the planking parts. Never ever apply glue to the formers. If you would do that, you will most likely get a "wrinkled" planking...
  5. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    Then I tackled the last real obstacle in building a ship - fitting the hull sides. Surprisingly, everything fitted without the slightest problem. Well, it is surprising for my skill in shipbuilding - not for Digital Navy kits. Any problem you might have with Romans designs is most likely...
  6. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    Hello friends, nothing good can't get better. Just when I thought I had a good plan for the 6 inch guns, I found an email from Roman of Digital Navy in my inbox. He sent me a set of guns from the Arizona kit that can also be used on the Oregon. And what guns they are - amazing! Roman...
  7. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    Here is how it looks when assembled. I think this will work.... So far for tonight, more soon. regards, Michael
  8. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    And this is what I came up with. The front opening of the breech is about 2x2.5mm - so I cut two 2.5mm strips from 0.5mm cardboard and four 0.5mm wide stripes. Then I glued those together, with a piece of 1mm wire in the middle. This assembly fits snugly into the breech opening. Will have to...
  9. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    Here you can see how it looks when the shelter deck is (roughly) placed where it will go. The problem with these guns is that you won't be able to fit the shelter deck when the barrels are attached to the guns. So I needed to find a way to mount the stands first, then fit the deck and...
  10. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    This is my current work - preparing the 6'' guns that go below the shelter deck. On the image you can see where they go and how they look when using the parts provided in the kit. It's just the stand and the breech - no barrels, not even a wire template for it.
  11. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    While I had the red color at hand, I also added the propeller shafts and painted them.
  12. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    Next step is the preparation of the hull sides. They have a small red strip at the bottom that overlaps the underwater hull. This had to be painted in the same color. Being shy of ripping off the detail printing when using masking tape, I relied on my steady hand for that.... Went pretty well I...
  13. M

    SD 14 General Cargo Ship anyone got an impression?

    Not quite - he is still working on it. Now he has started the middle segment of the ship. There are lots and lots of similar parts to be cut out and he is right in the middle of it. Talked to him yesterday and he promised new photos late this or early next week or so. regards, Michael
  14. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    Here's the hull after three coats of paint, applied with a roller. Should it get a little warmer in the next days, then I will sand it down another time and spray on the last coat. If not, it will stay as it is. regards, Michael
  15. M

    Need basic anti warpage advise

    Hi, first you should lay down the keel plat on a (really!) flat surface, adjust the parts to lie perfectly in line (check with a ruler, see Oregon thread) and then glue them together. Check again if the plate is straight and weigh down all the parts until the glue is dry (do not! use...
  16. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    Hi Pat, for the strips I have used cardstock - basically the same type that I used for all the other parts. But thin paper will do fine. I just forgot to change the paper in the printer. Thanks for the question about hull plating - it is important and I forgot to mention. You have to...
  17. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    And this is a view from from outside. Note that I had to remove the cardboard stripes from the areas where the openings for the casemat guns are - that's what happens when you glue first and think then... That's it for now folks, shipyard is closed for the night. If you have any...
  18. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    Finished adding all cardboard stripes. The deck was slightly curved, therefore I added some strengthening pieces to the underside of the deck and pressed the assembly flat until dry. Then I added the first bulkhead. To avoid having to fold the piece, I cut it apart at all fold marks and glued...
  19. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    The bulkwards that hold the deck will be glued around the edges of the deck piece later. To have a little more surface to apply glue to, I am adding thin strips of cardboard to the underside of the deck. The arrow points to the added strips. Comparing to the left side of the deck, you can see...
  20. M

    Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

    While the paint dries ( I will paint the hull at least three times, sanding down any rough edges between each layer), I am preparing some of the parts that will be needed later. Here the first deck piece.