OK sports fans, here's my problem (or at least the top one of many).
I work in N-scale, but am posting here because it's a technical question (I think).
I built my layout using PECO turnouts (their MEDIUM #6, code 80), about half insulfrog and half electrofrog. Things went swell until...
Shamus, your excellent photos and description has convinced me that I ought to use the peco motor to operate one or two turnouts near the back of my layout. I'm currently all-manual when it comes to my turnouts.
They are all Peco, N-scale. Carving a pit under the turnout is simple, as the...
I screwed up some how just now and lost the reply I was posting. I'll compose it again here and hope not to have introduced a duplicate message on the forum.....
justind -- Yes, the 220 is the one I have, and I love it.
No, it's not DCC, but I don't currently have a DCC-sized budget...
Justin,
I like it a lot. The thing I had before was one of those el cheapo units sold with Bachmann train sets back in the '60's. It was that old, and whatever fine control it once had has long since bitten the dust. It now supplies control to my turntable motor.
I bought the Tech 4-220...
I bought an MRC Tech-4-220 power pack for my N-scale layout. It's cool, allowing me for the first time to operate my locomotive at less than 100 mph.
Now, the 220 has a "momentum" control and a "brake" control, which supposedly allow more realistic train control.
The brake is a...
Ahhhh! Even better information! :)
I'm saving a copy of your post, because I'm sure I will have a use for it down the line -- not just for the BL-2, but for other purchases.
Bill
Ahhhh! Even better information! :)
I'm saving a copy of your post, because I'm sure I will have a use for it down the line -- not just for the BL-2, but for other purchases.
Bill
Terry,
Thanks for the specifics, it's the type of information I was looking for.
I checked the Microtrains web site catalog, it specified the 1135 as the only conversion for a BL-2 locomotive.
The Walther's catalog on page 118 specifies Microtrains 1135, 1163, 1165 or 1166, depending on...
Thanks, BillK and Charlie.
I'll check the Microtrains web site.
I have a month to play with, because although the loco arrived this past week, my wife is going to surprise me with it for my birthday. That's next month.
I just received a Lifelike EMD-BL-2 in Western Maryland livery. It's one of Lifelike's October releases. I love the locomotive, but it arrived equipped with Rapido couplers.
I want to convert these to Microtrains couplers. Unfortunately, Microtrains offers a bewildering variety of couplers...
Sure, Tyson.
You may be quite right. I use a toothpick for uncoupling in my yard, which is right up front next to me.
But, I have a bad back. This prevents me from leaning way over very much to uncouple cars at the rear of my layout -- where the coal mine is, for example. The layout...
OK, here's the deal.
I posted my initial question hoping that someone was an old hand at this magnetic coupler installation and could magically remove all my fears -- the ones about irrevocably damaging my layout.
Finally, Virginian came along and spurred me to action. If he could try...
Yes, Virginian. I have the Micro-trains 1310 uncouplers, just as you describe. Looks like there's hope for me here.
I have some track laid already, to be retrofitted with magnets, and I wanted just to cut away the ties and insert the things. Perhaps I'll end up purchasing some straight...
Billk -- thanks for the suggestion. No, they're the N-scale ones alright.
Woodie -- Now that's what I want to hear, that cutting the ties (and the little clips) doesn't destabilize the rails to the point where I'll be looking for trouble down the road. So, do you glue down your track before...
No, the magnet is too tall, the ties must be cut away to at least part of their depth. The Micro-trains instruction manual that comes with the ties also says this.
My problem is, that to cut away the ties to any depth (even a shallow cut) removes those little plastic clips that secure the...
Hello,
I bought several Micro-Trains magnets, the type one installs between the rails. I'm using Atlas code 80 flex track, for reasons of price and local availability.
l
My idea was to:
1. glue the ties to the cork roadbed, gluing only the part of the ties that lies outside the rails...
Rory,
Do you have a cat?
My Atlas GP-38 began to run erratically, stalling over turnouts and needing a push, etc. The track and loco wheels were clean as a whistle, rail joints all soldered, etc.
I discovered the problem to be the fine underfur of my cat (who is the only one in the house...
I was cleaning track successfully with the improved design that Rory posted, but I got tired of running my dinner through the blender. Also, my wife wanted her toothbrush back.
Sooooooh...... I bought the diecast Centerline car. (The diecast model was the only one the store had in stock)...