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I had the same problems when I went to update my N5-d rebuild thread last night. First it would not show the two pictures I posted but the attachment number showed up in blue. When I clicked on edit to redo the pictures and tried to save my editing I kept getting the same blank page with the...

Trust me there are times when I wish I was not cursed by my shaky hands. Simple jobs can sometimes become hard ones.:curse: I actually have all the drive train parts painted. Well except for the side rods and valve gear. They will get paint with the wheels slowly turning once the drive is...

Modelflex has a few colors that dry to a shiny finish. Engine black is one I know of. I am not sure which other ones do but I do know CN red #11 does not. As for Polly Scale so far the ATSF red I used and the steam power black dry to a semi gloss finish ( satin ). I have been told water type...

Well my plans to paint the cab numbers and windows got put on hold when my brother who I do not see to often dropped in for a visit on the weekend. The good news is yesterday and today the final painting ( except for side rods and valve gear ) was done. Today I painted the side cab windows...

I thought I had better give a little update on my N-5-d rebuild. Thanks to ending up with a bad case of the flu for just about two weeks I have not had much of a chance to work on it.:cry: Also seeing as winter will be here soon in the north I had a few things to take care of before it gets...

Try the link below for extra pickups on the Proto 0-8-0 tenders. I have used the article to do two 0-8-0 tenders and it works great. The two 0-8-0s I have done have Soundtraxx tsunami sound decoders and they run great. I have a third one waiting for tender pickups and it has a sound decoder as...

I think a little lubricant would be best. Either the dry graphite or some light oil. I am in the process of rebuilding two Van Hobbies CNR N-5-d class 2-8-0s I purchased used. Both had seen a lot of running time and showed signs of wear. Out of the two one had no lubricant on its side rods at...

Wayne you make a good point about it being a difficult spot to see once painted and with the engine coupled to the tender with a proper spacing. I guess my biggest hurdle to over come is not wanting to make a hole in the tender. Most of all since having a nice running accurate model of a CNR...

Wayne thanks for the link. I had actually found that thread awhile back. I was actually hoping to do as you had posted there. Unfortunatly the way my tender shell mounts to the tender floor made making a hole in the front of the tender a no go idea. Right behind the bottom of the front wall of...

Like I said before this is my first brass locomotive rebuild. Before this I had worked on some plastic steam locomotives and plastic diesels. My other model building experience was for the most part remote controlled airplanes, helicopters and some static plastic models. Even though I started...

I would have liked to use micro plugs but two 3 wire plugs were just too hard to hide. The front truck on the tender being so close to the tender front makes it impossible to hide the plugs under the tender. The enclosed cab was another thought as I could hide the plugs inside the back of the...

Now that I got the speaker mounting sorted out I needed to figure out where to have the six wires needed exit the tender. Needed are 2 motor leads, 2 power leads as the front part of the locomotive will be picking up power from both rails and 2 wires for the headlight. I also had to decide if I...

Well unforunatly I was unable to get any painting done this weekend. Other things kept me from working on the N-5-d. The good news is Monday morning the Soundtraxx Tsunami sound decoder, speaker and speaker box showed up in the mail finally. The Tsunami light steam decoder, speaker and...

Wayne Thanks for the info. I have been meaning to check the cab number to see what class he was trying to model but never got there. I am looking forward to your Bachmann Consolidation N-2-b conversion. I have a couple of them and was thinking of doing the same thing to. I am also thinking of...

Below are some more pictures of the second N-5-d I purchased with the first one. This one is going to require a lot more work to restore. Once I get locomotive #1 done this one will be next. These two pictures show the left side. At some time an Elesco feedwater heater system has been...

This morning I took a couple of quick pictures of the locomotive and the clear coated brass tender together. When I took this picture I was playing around with my Digital cameras light settings. I thought this picture was kind of neat as it has an old time look. The following pictures...

The pictures below show the repaired drive with the boiler mounted back on it. When the photos were taken it was being test on DCC and has a Digitrax decoder in the boiler. I had thought about replacing some of the factory details with new details that have a little more detail to them but...

Well still no sound decoder and speaker as of yet. Hopefully it is in tomorrows mail. Once I have it I will be able to drill some holes in the tender floor for the speaker and finish rewiring the drive. After a little test run I will be able to tear down the drive and get the remaining parts...

The new Quarterer II ( the one in my picture ) does not need a drill press. A small vice or a small c-clamp comes in handy for wheels with very tight axle holes. I have a small vice so I used it. If you look at the picture you will see two brass round bump outs ( one on each side piece of the...

While looking at some old photos I found this one. It is a builders shot of #2760. All nice and shiny new with the vanderbilt tender built for it. The vanderbilt tender is nice but it does look a little to big behind a 2-8-0. Now for some pictures of the reassembled drive for my N-5-d. Here...