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Terrific work! :thumb: OK, how did you make the ketchup bottle? What scale is the cafe? George

Shamus, that sounds tedious – maybe that’s why you now model U.S. stuff – we keep things simple. :) I don’t know how they did it, but the Pendon Museum in England has done some beautiful thatched roofs on some of their buildings. Just take a look at their site to see what I mean...

Stu, I have two or three cans of Dull Coat on hand, but when my stock gets low, I'll test the Model Master lusterless flat. George

Stu, What was your reason for making the switch? George

Nice work :thumb: Any pictures of the climax being built? George

As an ex-helicopter pilot, I resemble that comment!:)

Nicely done. Keep us posted on your progress. George

Robin, if it’s was a “learning process” then I’d be a genius by now. :) Unfortunately I still make my fair share of mistakes. George

What point system are you using? ;) George

It fastens under the workbench with Velcro. I've already made the mistake of trying to get up with it fastened, luckily the Velcro popped loose. George

Are those dust monsters the same critters that live in the clothes dryer and steal my socks? I bought an apron from Micro-Mark that does the trick. The top fastens around your neck and the bottom to the underside of your workbench. My problem now is to take the time to put it on. Murphy...

A good simple solution. I opened my CAD program and saw it wouldn't be too hard to design a roof template, then I saw your suggestion to use a contour gauge and it blew my idea right off the board. George

Nice work. :thumb:

Thanks guys. I left out an important step after the Hydrocal is poured. This applies to pouring plaster in any mold. Tap the bottom of the mold with the handle of a screwdriver for a minute or so. This eliminates bubbles in the casting. In fact, you can see the bubbles come to the surface...

Let the Hydrocal sit over night. That way you know it’s strong enough to take the stress of removing it from the mold. Take the four walls off and push up on the two bottom edges of the portal. The casting should come loose and slide out. Using this technique, it’s simple to make...

Here’s a shot of the mold filled with freshly poured Hydrocal.

Here’s a closer shot of the mold with the walls clamped on.

To provide clearance for the clamps under the mold, some scrap wood was glued to the bottom of the mold. I used contact cement for this.

Here’s the mold with the four walls clamped in place.

As I said earlier, the walls of the mold are removable. They are made from scraps of wood I ran through the table saw and they turned out to be 3/4”X7/8”. Like the portal wall piece, they need to be large enough to handle the thickness of the casting. I glued ½” wide strips of styrene to the...