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Don't know about GIMP, but RTS does work well and can be downloaded here. http://www.atlasrr.com/software/welcome.asp

I tried to keep some straight sections in those S curves, but in some cases it just didn't fit...or maybe I just didn't put them in. The only reason for the curves was to keep things interesting. I don't like long lengths of straight track. I like watching long trains wind their way through...

You know....you just might be onto something there. Hmmmm.....keep 'em coming, keep 'em coming. Tonight when I can get back on RTS I may have to make some modifications. Don't stop now...you guys are giving me some good feedback. :D

Simple is what I want....but still interesting to operate and not boring. To clarify on the 20" thing....the highest elevation of track is 3" (with the top of the foam board being 0"). The 20" you're referring to is the radius of the curve. All elevations are noted by "Elev. = X".

I'm modeling modern day BNSF. Would it be prototypical to have a coal loading structure like the one shown below on my layout or have they all gone to flood loaders now?

Good point. I don't really like the look of a triple track anway....maybe I should delete the interchange track and just use the passing siding for interchange cars. Is that prototypical?

Good question. The triple track actually is there for a reason, but I'm not sure that it's necessary. I intended for this area to serve as both the South Passing Siding AND as an interchange yard. The idea was to have the mainline (easternmost track), with a passing siding off of it (middle...

One question too....do today's railroads still use coal tipples like the one seen below or have they all gone to flood loaders? I'm modeling modern day BNSF so I may have to change some things if I can't use one of these.

I have revised the track plan yet again. Please take a look at it and see what you think. I managed to get the mainline minimum radius to 15" instead of 13.75" like it was before. For now I'm leaving the staging on top, but I'm still considering moving to a second deck below. I haven't...

Well...I have all of the materials to start the benchwork...which I may do tomorrow night after work. I'm still debating on the the track plan...but the benchwork isn't changing so I can go ahead and build it and start working on a backdrop and such. I did have one question though....do...

REVISED!! I have revised the track plan yet again. Please take a look at it and see what you think. I managed to get the mainline minimum radius to 15" instead of 13.75" like it was before. For now I'm leaving the staging on top, but I'm still considering moving to a second deck below. I...

In that last picture I noticed your cork wasn't angled on the outsides like most (or at least like the Midwest stuff I use). What kind of cork is it?? You layout looks good though. I like the track plan. :)

I don't plan to have anything as tight as 7-9". In fact, I'm trying to find a way to make my 13.75" radius turns wider. The only place I have it is at the dogbone ends of my turnout where the benchwork is 3' wide. I've got it double tracked at those locations with the outside track at 15"...

That's EXACTLY how I do mine. Piece of cake and works like a charm. :)

I knew Kato advertised that their 6 axle diesels would run on 9-3/4", but I didn't think they actually would! I guess that pretty much answers my question.

I'm in the layout planning stages and I have a couple of curves that are 13.75" radius. Will this cause problems for my Kato Dash 9's and SD70MAC's? If so I'd rather fix it now than after I have track in place. I'll be using easements so that will help, but I still want to know before I start...

So the next question is....will a six axle loco negotiate a 12" radius turnout??

No problem. Just passing along some of the stuff that I've managed to pick up along the way. :) By the way...if you missed that simple calculation to determine track spacing: ( Prototype Distance (ft) x 12 in./ft ) / 160 = N Scale Distance (in.) I'm sure you figured that out....but...

If I remember correctly Atlas turnouts will give you a 1-1/4" centerline to centerline spacing and PECO turnouts will give you 1-1/8" spacing. Of course, you can make it whatever spacing you want by putting track between the turnouts. I believe the N-Trak standard for spacing is 1.5", but I...

I just figured 2 bys because they were better at taking screws in the end. I suppose 1x4's would work too though. Regarding the plywood vs. hardboard....a 1/4" sheet of plywood would work just as well (better actually), but I figured the masonite stuff would be cheaper. My only reason for...