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New picture of the Reliant.

BARREL I started at the front of the barrel with the cone and emitter. The original cone part is laid out back to back so you can fold it and glue both sides together. That gives you the gray texture on both sides. I don’t like doing that with curved parts because the outside needs to be a...

BOTTOM This parts was assembled using the same method as the main body. I used to the desktop as much as possible to keep it level and used Super Glue gel at all the seams to further help it hold its shape.

FORWARD BODY Next up was the forward body of the rifle. Again, all the flat sections were glued to 1mm chipboard (and some that probably shouldn’t have been!). My original plan was to cut all the flat sections apart at the folds and glue them back together to get a clean, strong fit. That was...

IT’S BACK! EYEPIECE Felt it was finally time to put in a little work on this in an effort to finish up some lingering projects. I started with the eyepiece/targeting scope. All flat parts for the the 3 blue sections of the body were glued to 1mm chipboard. I glued the curved outer skin to one...

That sucks, man. People have less and less respect for others and their property every day. You'll pick up that knife again when motivation comes a-callin'. ;)

I sometimes put a very small bead/coat of Super Glue along the edge of a part to help keep it stable. The glue dries clear and acts as a sort of "frame" for the part to hold its shape.

Here's a new entry in the "Broken Mirror" story @spaceagent-9 Thanks for the compliment. The refit dreadnought sounds interesting. I've never seen the one you mentioned. I don't know how to design models but if someone makes one I'm sure I'll try to repaint it. :)

Added a new picture today

Thanks @Rhaven Blaack . Maybe I can put a small version of the band in as is. I'll have to take a look. The triangle/cones originally are intricate little parts with a groove and a good bit of curve. I thought about trying the curves, but the ends on the original parts are solid and that would...

Thanks @Revell-Fan . No, it can't be added later on this model. On the actual studio model, there is a gap between the rear fuselage and the main (narrow) fuselage. The band covers that up and it's fairly wide. You can see in the reference pics how it butts up against the upper rectangle details...

Next up, I attached the boosters to the panel. I thought about holding off until I designed the details that go on the panel between the boosters and the fuselage but decided against it. I wanted to get the orientation of the boosters correct because that’s the most visible way to screw up. With...

With the panel in place, I added all the little triangle-like greeblies around the forward seam. These are dome-like structures on the studio model, kind of like the end of a pen. I couldn’t replicate that, so I went with a somewhat similar flat version. I had to do some creative trimming to the...

I dry fit the panel several times before gluing. On the final fit, I got it in place and used a sharpened toothpick to spread Super Glue gel along the inside front center seam. The Super Glue gel is perfect for this work and gives a solid seam. Using the center as an anchor, I slowly worked my...

The detailed area at the front center took a lot of work. It has a lot of little bits that took a lot of time to draw out. The smallest details (the 4 little rectangles and dual circles on the outside flaps, the small boosters in the center) were almost two small to cut out. As is they aren’t...

BOOSTER PYLONS On the JayBats model, the booster engines are connected to the fuselage by two pylons. On the studio model, the boosters rest on a flat panel that connects to the bottom of the rear main fuselage. This area has a lot of greeblies (lines, tanks, framework, boosters) that are a...

Good to hear, Rick. That's a shiny piece of death-dealing awesome you've built!:fight:

Excellent work @Rhaven Blaack on the build! Love the detailing. And kudos to @Revell-Fan for making a great blaster. If I see any of my neighbors eating mice or wearing old-lady style space sunglasses I'm going to need on of these!:eek:

I added the small white trapezoid on each wing by cutting a piece of 67 lb. white cover to size and gluing them on with Super Glue gel. When I test fit the wings, it was clear the port wing was going to have a really bad slant. The main “box” shape had gotten cantered forward, so if the wing...

WING ASSEMBLY Time to assemble the wings! First, the wing guns are attached. I used regular glue to give myself some positioning leeway. Once set, I used a little Super Glue gel to lock everything in position. The way I made the wings let the guns sit nicely and look a lot closer to the studio...