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To make it stronger, I glued the mounting button to chipboard, added scraps of chipboard to the inside, then glued the other side to chipboard. I scratched the ink away where the button glued to the handle since it’s printed on glossy paper and I wanted the glue to get a good “bite.”

I used the same triangle-cuts method to score the side piece. I cut out the center first, then carefully cut out the outside edges being careful to cut easily and not tear the piece. Once the outside skin was cut and scored I glued it to the edge piece starting one of the folded edges. From...

STOCK I was unsure how the stock was going to turn out since it had such an odd shape, but it’s not too bad. As previously done, all the parts were glued to 1mm chipboard, the edges were trimmed to about a 45 degree angles, scores were done with an angled needle file and everything was edge...

There's always room for more Buck ships! Claphands

Congrats Spaceagent-9!

This is one of the first models I ever built. It's a great little retro design and easy to do.

@THE DC : No Saurian Brandy so I went for the chocolate buzz. Left and Right Twix were consumed with no preferential treatment.

MAIN ASSEMBLY I attached the bottom "U" shaped part of the housing to the front and rear body parts after attaching the cylinders. If I'd done the cylinders last there's no way I could be sure they'd fit in the opening. I used a liberal amount of glue on the bottom piece, positioned it where I...

The last (and easiest) part was to glue the three cylinders in place. I chose to put the red one at the top because that's how it looks when Kirk blasts Gary Mitchell! I positioned all the cylinders so the seams faced inward toward each other so you really can't see them. Now I have lovely...

To create the clear sleeves I used .007 Clear-Lay 8.5 x 11" Film by Grafixarts. I bought it at Hobby Lobby. I thought about .015 clear plastic (too thick) or some overhead projector acetate or office supply sheet protectors (too thin). I even cruised the stores looking for some kind of plastic...

To help the cylinders keep their shape I glued squares of 1mm chipboard to each end using Super Glue gel. I trimmed the extra chipboard off and glued each of those to the white and colored end pieces making sure to matching color to each end.

Have I mentioned I hate making tubes? Well, I do. Since these are big and highly visible I worked extra hard to make them as round as possible. I decided to make a buck by wrapping pieces of newspaper around a dowel rod until I got the right thickness. Next, I put a piece of double-sided tape on...

CYLINDERS Making the power cylinders was a bit of a challenge. I started with the white and colored circles that are the ends of each cylinder. They are all stacks of glued 1mm chipboard. I glued the top (white/colored) pieces to chipboard and trimmed out the circle. Then I glued that piece to...

HANDLE The handle was next and it was pretty straightforward. Again, everything got glued to 1mm chipboard and I used files to score the folds. This time, to help with the sharply curved areas at the top and bottom I used a flat file to remove as much of the chipboard as I could where the...

Thanks guys. I have gotten more done. Updates coming soon.

A company called Funko has recently created Star Trek figures in the old Kenner 3 3/4" scale and style. They call them "Reaction" figures and they are pretty cool. You can find them on the Net and eBay. So far they have 8 figures. I'm going to score a set soon. They have a lot of other cool...

That is an excellent model. Really well done!:Congrats:

I added a little detail by raising the grid on the top rear section. Finally, I glued down the eyepiece and the button housings that go on each side. I had to do a little extra trimming to get the housing to sit flush with the final curve of the rear body.

The side pieces had to curve a lot and I considered using my spares that didn’t have chipboard attached. But, I opted to go ahead and try the originals first. It took some force but I did get them into shape. Looking back I could have tried putting some water on the chipboard to soften it for...

REAR BODY The rear body of the rifle is a combination of straight angles and curved pieces. The original part is designed as one piece, but at this size that was unworkable. I kept the top and the forward cylinder mount wall attached and cut off the rest. I was going to cut off the short angled...