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This is correct information, as far as the NMRA recommenations. There is a school of thought that differs. Let me start by saying that my layout is not to the point where I can pass judgement on these ideas, so just take them for what they are. Here is a link: Hints and Techniques That's...

The length of a set of wheels that does not pivot with respect to each other, like a set of drivers. I would think it was measured from the center of the first to teh center of the last, but I could be wrong there. Jeff

In some ways, you know that power to the track is good based on how you did the job of hooking it up, rather than by trying to measure it. I say that because with no current being drawn (no trains running) the voltage is going to look fine. As soon as you pu a load on it, high resistance...

That would do it! You can get the gausge from the NMRA website, but shipping is a killer. So, I got mine a Model Train Stuff Featuring Exclusive Model Trains and accessories at Discount Prices and bought some other stuff to spread the shipping out. If I save any more money, I'll be broke...

http://www.tcsdcc.com/pdf/Plain%20English%20Guide%20r3.pdf It looks like you just add 1, or subtract if it is already odd. Jeff

That works, as well. But every time I've done it I've ended up getting all twisted around with the directional lighting, and ended up just fixing the motor wires! :mrgreen:

Run you fingers across the joints. I am suspicious of a kink, or a bump. Jeff

Yep, if it runs backwards you just switch the orange and grey. How did it run on DC? IF it is running worse now, I'd try running without the shell, and see if you can see any mechanical binding. Sometimes in taking apart and putting together something can get out of alignment. Also check...

So, he thinks it should be clean!

At least on the N scale locos I've done, there is usually a brass piece that is in contact with the wheels that sticks up and contacts a brass strip that comes down off the frame. the contact strip is a bit like a spring, pushing slightly down to maintain contact. It does sound like you are...

It isn't the whole motor that needs to be isolated, in most cases, it is the brushes, those little spings are the contacts to them. I an still sure someone has done this, I'm still looking for them. If you look some more, I think you'll find that the weight is in two parts, and that each part...

The motor probably has a couple of little clips coming out of it that contact the two halves of the frame. So you 'just' need to snip them so they don't contact the frame, and put the grey and orange wires on them. The red and block can then go to the halves of the frame. Does that engine...

And the 14/2 probably had a ground in it to, another wire you don't need to buy.

I am troubled by this statement. Do they run well on DC? I'm in N scale, I can't imagine getting a decoder into an HO loco being that difficult or complicated!:mrgreen: Pick one, and maybe we can get through it together! We'll learn something, anyway. Jeff

He shimmed up the contacts, and they purr like kittens, or something like that! Jeff

I think most advice with that long a run would be to go with #14, maybe even #12 for the bus. Run it in both directions, so you only have 39' to the far end. Don't connect coplete the loop at the far end. (You'll get lots of debate on that, and for practical purposes it doesn't really matter...

There is going to be a good bit of movement in that much track hooked together. You are going to want to be very meticulous about getting it down right. You also want to make sure every joint is smooth in all directions, a little offset is going to be magnified. In a lot of ways, I'd say...

The lightbulbs should prevent the other areas from shutting down, even though they may be served buy the same booster. Though if the bosster is only capable of 2A, the bulb will use it all up , and there won't be anything left for anyone else.

Even though DC isn't really AC, the 8 V reading doesn't sound good, based on what I've seen. What is the current rating of your power supply? Also, have you looked at Page 16 of the LZV100 Manual on setting the track voltage?

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