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Here is a closeup of the trailing truck. It will have to be fabricated from brass. David

Now, the first banding is the most important because it actually wraps all around the boiler on the model. The others will actually terminate before they hit the chassis. The next step is getting ready for the walkways. These walkways will also serve as a 'guide' for the rest of the...

Next is the first banding around the boiler. This locomotive has a LOT of banding.......here is my reference pic... I used the above drawing as a reference and printed it out in N scale. I wrapped the banding around the boiler and soldered it.

Here is the start to the boiler. Brass tube of the correct diamater butted up against sheet brass and soldered. Here it is rough cut And polished.....sorry bout the fuzzy pics, the camera doesnt like shiny stuff!

And TADAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!! You now have a 2-10-0 LOL.... This is the time where you have to test run this unit looking for binds or hesitations. You may have to run some temporary wires to power the unit while testing. A few things about this picture...... 1. WHERE THE HELL DID...

Now is a good time to dryfit the 2 sides to make sure that the bashing is balanced...lol. Not much more to say about this particular pic. Ahhhhh...the basher's BEST friend...sheet styrene...and CA cement! This is OBVIOUSLY THE MOST IMPORTANT PART.......the new driver pocket has...

This biggest part of this kitbash is obviously the lack of one set of drivers. A Mike has 4 sets and a Selkirk has....5. Hmm...2 Choices here: either we add a driver to the front of the unit or add one to the back. After studying the unit, I decided the best way would be to add a driver to...

And a-bashing we go!!!!! This victim for this project is none other than a Kato Mikado formally decorated for the CNR. I have NO problem bashing this particular unit. It is a good starting point because the drivers are the correct height and the piston/valve assembly is very close to...

Project CPR Selkirk T1 (56k beware) The Goal........ In this thread I will document the process I have taken in my attempt to make a faithful representation of a CPR Selkirk in N scale. David

After seeing the new Kato Zephyr in N scale (and purchased it on impulse with an ABA of PAs), I saw the error of my ways. I will abondon my HO endevors and dedicate myself to N scale. I just hope you can find it in your hearts to welcome me back. I am in the process of planning a new...

Looks great Steve! Looks a little too clean though :) David

Check the gauge of the wheels on your locos. Does your rolling stock go through the turnout without any problems? If they go through without any issues, the fix the gauge of your locos. If they go through with issues, then it is the turnout. Ive had about 15 of these switches and every time...

Looks sweet though :)

Look great steve! Ah...how does one get in that side door?!? David

I thought (and correct me if I am wrong) that the rear numbers just went across the top of the back as opposed to across the middle of the back like the regular sd40-2's. Kinda if the Pyle light was between and below the 2nd and 3rd number. Thats what I remember....and it should be the same...

Ah....Not dirty enough for me.

Yes. Either way.....

AH...the MESSY hand problem...Make a thin solution and dip paper towels in the the mix (carefully...and use brawny towels). Then lay the papertowels on the layout (do atleast 2 layers....expecially if you are going to lay the towels over crumpled news paper and such). It makes life easy. And...

Yup....thats the stuff.......Alot cheaper than woodland scenics...

Not A building supply store like Revy or Home depot...they wont have it....look in the white pages for winrock... here is a link to what I found in Edmonton...