Search results

well, he could go back and edit his earlier posts... Just editting and saving ougth to fix the pixilation problem. Not that I mind, with the pixilation, my layout actually looks better. :D

Right now, the only switcher locomotive I've got is also the cheapest, having come in a $60 set. I've got this one right now, Bachman Standard 0-6-0. Anyhow, it's finally begining to show some of it's limitations on my layout, mostly due to it's relatively short electrical contact area (the...

Well, my latest attempt to get a picture came out a bit differently. I've put in the backdrop, and was playing around with my camera getting just the right motion blur going on.

Illinois central also bounces back and forth between black, or orange and white. *note, Illinois central is extrodinarily difficult to find* Alternatively, if you're willing to make the investment, you could go steam. Then almost any road you run will have black locos! :)

Under a 'standard' steam design, 80-120 MPH, for the same reason as fuel burning steam locos. There is a practicle limit to how much speed you can get by pushing back and forth on a large piece of iron or steel. Using a steam turbine, and possibly electricly coupled, 80-120 MPH, unless you...

It's on my to-do list. I was just pleased enough that I had to get some pics up as it was. To dirty up the road, I think I'll just use a watered down inkwash. That should also help make it look less coarse. Greenie-weenie is a fairly generic term for nylon scrubbing pads. (the plastic...

Very soon I shall need to take all this advice myself, having finally gotten around to adding some roads. My plan involves just simple balsa strips, gouged for multiple-board appearance, glued in place and painted. Sound about right?

I've still never quite understood the need for traction tires. But after reading this thread, it's suddenly occured to me that they'll be real handy when you loose a lot of weight adding in a decoder.

Does the week-end being over mean we have to... My new road came out pretty good (can't tell from that angle though!), but I'm even happier with keeping my little people safe.

Well, all of my track is back up and running properly again! (except that odd spot up the hill, near the trainstation...) That said, I've begun to fill the lake with water, and even built a couple of gravel roads! Now I know why I've never bothered to add too many buildings, it's a largely rural...

You may be able to do better than that. I'd say the above lists are pretty accurate, but considering your needs with a new layout, you don't need to be driven entirely by quality. (I know, I know, heresey.) My two biggest concerns for starting are both driven around compatability. 1) Do all...

That looks about like my switches, except your orange section is made of Plastic. What scale are you working in? Maybe N-scale is built differently. For the most part, I don't even have to wire the switches seperately, I just have to have the adjoining track wired.

I had a lot of space to build my layout in, 11'x5'. What I wanted to capture seems to be the very opposite of NTaghon's intention. Where I wanted some wide open spaces and long runs, he seems more interested in the scale of the train itself.

Resin is pretty easy to use, but I'm still on a bit of a learning curve myself about some of the finer details. So far I've learned that if you cast a good mold, in the right type of latex mold material, it's pretty easy. However, I've also expirimented with some other plastic resin, and...

I'm sorrey, I've never seen a switch layed out like that. Of course, all of mine are Atlas switches, which isolate right at the point of the orange section.

Wiring DCC isn't very much different from wiring DC. In fact, unless you require multiple boosters, it's the same. The only difference is you wind up with far less need for dead-track, and no need for multiple electrical track sections. Edit: well, this is assuming I understood your question...

Not really practical here. I'm relaying previously existing track sections, and soldering them to track that's already in place. Unfortunately, the joints are on curves, which is never a good thing.

Unfortunately, as there are no industry standards to dictate just what "DCC ready" or "DCC Friendly" mean, they can on occasion wind up with the same meaning as "New and Improved". :(

And my railroad is back together again... mostly. All the rail has been re-laid, and most of the problems I was expecting I've already worked through. On the downside, I now seem to be having gremlins attacking the entirety of my layout, and there are problems developing quite far away from...

well, the lake is progressing... or was, untill I ran out of plaster cloth. Meanwhile, about six feet of track had to be isolated, clipped, and rather brutally ripped from my layout. The good news is, I had the foresight to pick up more flextrack to re-lay the lines. The bad news is, well...