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You can find the DZ123 and DH123 decoders for $15-16 each. www.litchfieldstation.com is one source.

:wave: Hi Case! Do you have the NEW Walthers roundhouse that goes with their new TT? I have a friend who fitted a low-rpm motor to a Heljan TT and it works great. Also several folks have gotten the older, smaller Walthers TT to work well with careful assembly (and maybe some re-assembly...

:wave:

Martin, My limited experience is that most locos run better on DCC. You can set the CVs to "tune" the way the loco runs. Even the top speed (Very handy when you have kids operating.) Most (All?) of my locos (steam) are relative inexpensive. If you can spring for the decoders then you'll be...

Nice work TC! Steve, you'll have your "work cut out for you" with this one. I wonder if Steve could expand the corners a bit and let TC broaden the curves some. This looks like it will be a very nice layout and it would be good to have minimum radii greater than 18" if possible since 18"...

You'll LOVE DCC! :)

Steve, You can have a super layout in that space. Just cool it until the TrainClown gets back to you. :thumb: Take it easy and don't let your wife become a "railroad widow". Let her know that this is just a hobby and she's not. :oops: I've been messing around with my layout for...

Duey, Here are a couple of interesting links for the MRC 2000. http://www.tttrains.com/mrc/ http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/dcc/index.html Any DCC is better than no DCC and that's not a criticism of the MRC 2000. If you can get a really good price ($50-60US for a complete system) I...

Shamus was always encouraging with compliments on modeling even though he was light years ahead of many of us. :thumb: His work is an inspiration in detailing. And I hear that he's a cracking good harmonica player too. :cool: :thumb: You can find him if you need him. :)

Jon, Great work on that tower! [:)] I haven't even started mine. But now I've got a lot of great example to look at.

My work this week was pretty mundane (but it HAD to be done sometime). :oops: I added some covers for the accesses on the fascia. They are held in place by Velcro. I got 4 of these: Then I made a "shelf" for my accessory power supplies: I also cleaned up some of the wiring after...

Great looking stuff guys! I thought this might be useful. This week I don't have any modeling to show but I did convert an AXT PC power supply to a nifty MRR power supply using a link that Bill Nanney sent and a donated PS: Here's the PS before any "conversion". Here is is after...

Nice work as usual! :thumb: I finally got back to my culvert project. The High-line grade has some drainage problems and a culvert was badly needed. Here's the ideal site for a culvert. It just took a small hammer to excavate the "bore". I used WS plaster cast culvert pieces...

Here's an interesting link for anyone using the MRC 2000 and wanting more from the system: http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/dcc/index.html

Circuitron mentions that as many as 30 Tortoise switch machines can be powered by a single 9-12 volt 500ma "wall wart". Who knew? :thumb:

Hi, I'm building the Black Bart Mine and the Ore processing plant. These are Suydam kits that I bought over 20 years ago. They will need a lot of extra detail but I have several and thought it would be nice to complete them. The soldered metal construction is pretty rugged. I also have a...

Doc, Here's a very simple structure kit: http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?ID=200303653

Alpha, It's more like assigning one address to the "consist". There are several approaches. Take a look at the manual(s) for the system of your choice. They are available online at the various manuf. web sites. Look under "Consisting" or something similar. Or better yet (maybe) take a...

Alpha, There are several considerations if you want to control more than one loco with a single DCC decoder. You need to be sure that the DCC decoder will handle the total amps of the loco motors that you intend to control. Decoders typically will handle 1 to 1.5 amps. Also you may run...

Floquil Rail Brown or Roof Brown (A little lighter) and some Grimy Black here and there. I used spray cans after the track was down. Then you can add a little rust or grease or whatever here and there with a brush.