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its the new hex drive throw the mounts away and fill the depressions with streyn screw the motor back down on 2 layers of elec. tape and away you go nice and quite

:thumb: I can relate I'm currantly looking foe a basement with a house attached to it!!! sign1

I had the same problem with an athearn gp--38 some body here sent me to this site now I have about 2 DZ plastic athearn motor mounts that i won't use:D http://www.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/F3-F7Project/AthearnChassis.htm

11x14 around the walls 2 walls 3' wide L shaped 2 walls 1'wide above the work bench.:D

:wave: Thanks for the rock island FACTS I just can't get enough of the rock island history :D thanks again

Railroaders call it rail brown the army calls it olive brown:D sign1

with no stand or machine to hold the switch points they could and will move on you in the middel of a train!!!!! just when you are showing of the lay out to somebody

after you cut the track to what ever size u need I remove 2-3 ties so I dont melt them after I'm done I cut the spike heads off with a hobby knife and glue them back under the track.

Put the side of the tip right where the 2 rails meet you want to solder both rails and joiner at the same time.

my 40 watt iron the very tip gets hot but not hot enough, I use the side of the tip on the inside of the track ,let it heat up about 5-10 sec touch the solder to the outside of the rail and it done ,make sure there is no little gap between the rail ends have the iron touching both rails. and...

I need to get a better camara so I can post pics the solder should not blob up on the rail joiner it should flow down inside the joiner to were other than being bright silver you cant see any solder build up but the rail has to be clean for that to happen so I would try to clean the rail ends !

the brass rail oxidies real bad that why its hard to keep clean on a layout! before soldering the brass rail it needs to be clean of the oxidation use some steel wool or sand paper to polish it other than useing the brass rail looks good .

Man that looks good!!!!

If your soldering track feeders use an alligator clip you can pick them up at radio shack .take the plastic insulation off the clip before using.

Im not sure but the atlas wire might be "pre-tined" copper if it solders easy it copper

you need to get solid wire made of copper dont get speaker wire it may be that one of the "strands " is aluminum!

Looking real good like the low relif buildins!

1. yes 2. yes 3. yes 4. yes 5. 1:87 scale athearn,atlas,kato,proto,walthers. 6. yes 7. no 8. no 9. proto 2000 10. yes

:thumb: Did you get the rock island paint scheme :D bounce7

on parallels 2" on your 24r curves 2 1/8" but I've got skinney fingers solder the joints on the curves!