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I went to Home Depot today and looked at martials. They have something there called Lauan.. A very thing sheet of plywood looking martial (moisture resistant).. It looked rather light...

You have any photos of your setup using plugs & jacks?

Well, not really, If I break it up any more, I could probably use the money spent on electric switches for a DCC system.. Not to mention reduce the complexity of operation..

Doesn't that add extra switches (electric) that's not really needed? In my cases, it breaks up those ovals into half sections..

Yea, Electrical switches aren't a biggie.. I can figure that part out no problem.. Was more of a issue on where to hook up the blocks at on the track and where to properly isolate sections.. and the big question was how to properly wire the turnout into a block, and which block it went in, and...

In my last reply, switch = turnout. I'll be using the Atlas Snap-Switch Machines with Atlas turnouts. Only part electrical is why/how to isolate the turnout appropriately. It that colored diagram, I isolated the curved part of the turnout where it meets another turnout. leaving the straight...

I've not built my bench work yet. I was looking at doing a 4x8 layout using a 1x4's for the frame and using 2 2" Thick foam sheets from Home Depot. Was going to put 1 IN the frame so that it's surrounded by the 1x4's and then put the other on top for my valley/mountain scenery. Or I'm going to...

I guess the switch stuff is what's confusing me.. I've been reading a Atlas book on how to wire stuff.. and in my layout, I've got the switches isolated on the frog side on the curve. The straight part of the turnout will be continuous. (I'll be using Atlas Snap-Switches and Turnouts which...

I can render a higher quailty image that'll be easier to see, just couldn't upload it, too large. I'm using the Altas RTS software to render the color's, Took me a while to figure it all out.. I ended up have to disconnect all my track color code it, then re-connect because it wanted to color...

Here is another copy of my layout color coded with multiple lines. This is how I'm thinking of breaking it up..

So the big issue is the wheels shorting out the track as it passes over the insulated joint. Geez, what a waste.. Having to use a special reversing module just to avoid something so simple as a mechanical short.

I'm not a little confused. If the DCC decoder acts as a rectifier, then I wouldn't think you would need a reversing loop modules, I thought those were for normal DC operation, not DCC. I was imagining just isolate both rails on the loop and would be good to go.

theBear, Thanks... I guess the question about DCC with reversing loops is this.. I know the track must be insulated, I'm just wondering if the decoder board will relize a polarity change in the track and keep going it the right dorection.. (or does DCC have polarity, is it AC ??)

Wouldn't it be better to use saddle splices? (Those little blue suit case looking connectors that go over 1 wire and you splice in the second one. I find these very effective and easy to use.

I'm looking to probably have 3 cabs + 1 more for the spurs and reversing loop. Speaking of reversing loops, how does DCC deal with one?

Best way to wire this layout? I've chosen this layout to build, but, there isn't any details on placement for power terminals and insulators, nor any info on how to wire the switches. So, Here's what I'm looking for. I'm looking to wire this system for NON DCC operation with the ability to...