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It's a little out of date, but a start. Probably the best is to check E-bay and various shops reselling brass to see what they are going for.

My friend built one of the MP extended side hoppers years ago from an article I believe in RMJ. Burl Rice http://burlrice.com/TC200/index.php makes resin castings in HO to make a different but somewhat similiar car.

Does anyone know if these were acquired from the Missouri Pacific? I know that some were.

For most, I prefer to do most of the assembly esp parts that will be the same color. Doors and windows are usually best let on the sprue to be painted and attached latter. One problem I have with some Walthers Cornerstone kits is the the windows are cast with the mullions on them. For these like...

There are various layout drawing/planning programs which allow you to set your scale. Atlas makes a freebee as does Xtrack Cad. PlanIt3D and Cadrail are 2 commercial ones (they both offer workable demos on their sites).

Most dryers are propane fired so you might want to include some storage and unloading facilities. You might also consider adding propane or oil to the products sold by your facitily - here's what we added on my friend's layout:

I committed to 2 Walthers bins and dryer along with a Rix grain leg (elevator) but noted that dryers weren't common until mid to late 50's. If I had to do it again, I'd scratchbuild a light leg and omit the dryer for my 50's era layout. I did scratch build a leg and used the Rix bins I...

Although it's my valance, this link should show some bends and curves applied to the Masonite as well as how I formed some http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jerryglow/construction_report/valance.htm

Do you plan to add any grain bins like Walthers or Rix? This structure really crys out for the addition of additional storage and details to make an interesting scene.

From what I've heard there is eventual problems of sag. Used on a protable or moveable layout, I would think that would be even more likely. I'd avoid it's use esp for this application. Rolled aluminum might be a better choice but it might be susibtible to "dings" when moved.

I used to paint commercially and most customers wanted crew in the cabs. In many cases, the figures wouldn't fit requiring some elective surgury usually lopping off legs or at least the feet. I usually threw them in the scrap box and had plenty when I wanted to detail the interior of my...

I got similiar mails and tried to find a place at e-bay to report them but couldn't find one. If they aren't any more interested in policing their customers, I prefer not to be one. I've explained this to a couple people I'd bought from and they have all agreed to accept other means of payment...

Not knowing what system you have and if you have the capability of reading back the CVs, the manufacturer number is one of the first things to display when programing. Not having any Lenz decoders, I don't know what their manuf # is but it should be readily available.

The ties are only joined under 1 rail so I think you can force a little angle here and there or even cut them apart for uneven spacing (but keeping alignment thru the tie plates will become an issue). Also, some people have used a pair of sprue cutters to trim the tie ends occasionally for a...

Yes - they brought them back on the market a few years ago along with switch kits. When they originally came out (early 90s ?) they only commercially offered the tie strips - nothing for turnouts which I think limited the sales. They sold the tie blocks but direct only and it wasn't well known...

Some of the Walther kits I've built present somewhat the same problem in that the mullions are cast into the window "glass". I had a friend with a vinyl cutter so laid out the window pattern(s) to cut vinyl masks for the individual panes. Short of access to a vinyl cutter, I think you could do...

IMO the looks of handlaid track does not justify the work. I happen to think tie plates and proper spikes are more important that a little difference in the look of the ties. Of course, it depends on what scale you work in, but for HO, I don't think you can beat Central Valley tie strips. They...

I don't know if your buyer was a newby to either e-bay or paypal but I can attest to some problems and concerns with paypal the first time or two I used it. Only good communications between myself and the seller averted any problems. Remember YOU are part of the process too and it's up to both...

Metal castings usually have mold release on them that needs to be washed off throughly. After drying, priming with the solvent based Floquil is the usual preferred method. After that is dry, you should be able to paint the details with just about anything.

We all pull dumb stunts at one time or another. Mine was a dilly. I bought my first brass (steam) engine from a guy trying to trade it in at a hobby shop. They didn't want it because he didn't have the original box and had filed the flanges off the center 2 sets of drivers (2-8-4 configuration)...