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Have you removed the brushes from the motor? It is possible that one of the brush springs has lost it's tension. I have found this in a few Bachmann locos. The brush is intended to pass current to the brass brush holder. If they gets dirt and oil build up between them the current passes...

Nice job Glen, looks great.:thumb: :thumb:

Thanks Hobbes. Get well soon Don. You and your family are in our prayers.

I was looking at those a couple of weeks ago. They are sweet.:thumb: I couldn't get approval from the finance department at the time though.:(

I remember an article in one of the MR mags on how to build that circuit. That's how I recognized what it was.

What it does is makes a sound like a mechanical reefer running. Is the black wire from the battery connected? I can't tell from the photo.

I prefer using Floquil paints for base coats and color coats. Then Testors dull coat to seal the decals. For weathering I use a combination of both solvent and water based paints.

Tom's locomotive is a rather rare piece. Built in the early 60s for only a few years. They are hard to find, especially as nice as Tom's locomotive is.

Gee Tom, That sure looks like an Athearn Little Monster to me.

This is an Athearn Hi-F F7 chassis witha Pittman remotor kit installed.

Here's a few more. A Roundhouse #F-103 all metal 200 ton flat car. A Roundhouse #B-200 all metal horizontal rib box car. A Penn Line #452 flat car with trailer. A Central Valley B-91 PRR 34' wood box car. A Silver streak wood caboose.

A PA and PB. A C420. An RSC2 A Lionel and Kusan FA.

A couple of RS11s. An old Tyco C430. A modified Tyco C630 and a TM FA & B.

Hi my name is Ray, I am an Alco-haulic. An S-1 and a few RS3s.

Don, That Minitrix 4-6-2 I repaired for you may be older. They were introduced in 1970 and produced untill 1999. No telling when that paticular locomotive was built but I would guess it saw one of the early ones. As for my oldest, It is a toss up. It may be the clockwork Marx CV or the...

I picked up this Pitman remotor kit for the Athearn belt drive F7s at a show for $2. It runs rather well for a locomotive of that era. The belts are also of the same era. Sold by a company named Perfect.

I tried it.:thumb: I cut the teeth off the bull gear and cut a groove in it. The top opening had to be widened to clear the belt. I also trued the flywheel and resized the shaft. I made some brass bushings for the mounts too. This chassis runs alot better than the stock one but not as...

I may give some a try on Athearn axle bearings. I have been hardwiring the locos from the bearings directly to the motor and the only electrical gap from the wheels to the motor are the axle bearing surfaces.

Great job Don. That's over $200 worth of motive power.

I may just give that a try. Due to the design of the truck mounting, there isn't much play for the trucks to compensate for uneven track. The short drive shafts limit the turning radius. I'll post any remedies to these issues that I come up with.