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Looks liek an early Air control tower to me, or a yard tower. :)

Peter, one of the smilies on the chat shows as a red X and the quick link for it says it's just ("") unlike the others which are like (":)"), it's the third from the right.

Cool, thanks Don, I wouldn't want to encrouch on others prefrences, so was hoping for a multi-customizable format for those of use that prefer standard viewing colors.

I sure hope you plan on implimenting some change to it or let us customize it for ourselves, this new blue is killing my eyes trying to read the sight now. I have a hard time even looking at the screen and I so do love reading the guage. :confused:

Oddest sight, i have no clue what it would be, except maybe it's a new fangled Low profile bumper or maybe it's a derailer!

Bah just use real Concrete, not only is it hefty, it'll look realistic. Justy kidding, if you really want it to look realistic, place a thin (and i mean super thin) layer of very fine (and i mean very fine) sand on the bottom of a pan (make sure you use something the plaster can get released...

Great thanks fred, we're always looking to save a dime :)

I say wow! just Wow! that looks great, as for the chinney, I'd leave it cockeye'd, looks realistic. Seen many of those old stovepipes bent over from wind and snow.

wow, I was thinking mid-late 20's, but decided to post conservativly. Good luck, should sell well. :)

you and me both :cool: Let's see, yea the 0-4-0 would be nice. but you could kitbash one out of a 2-6-0, by removing the ponies and rear drivers, then shortening the boiler and chassis on the front to get a working 0-4-0. the 0-8-0 could be made by taking a 2-8-0 and removing the ponies and...

Do you plan to run more than 2 trains? if you do, you'll soon find the cost is almost as much as doing a DC block system. And most new steam is DCC read as well, some do require some minor adjustments to get the decoder in, but most don't. As for the Original poster, first buy a DCC system...

that is not good fred, you're saying that an engine will have no power when the turntable is not aligned to a track. which means you will have a constant Ligh on, light off, light on as the track rotates around. this is not good for not just the light, but also the fine electronic DCC circuit...

Umm..Fred, polarity still applies in DCC. take the following: +++++ +++++ +++++ Turntable at 0 degress, all rails align properly. ------ ------ ------ +++++ ----- +++++ Turntable at 180 degress, rails no longer aligned properly. ------ +++++ ------ Since you still have a positive and...

Yes it's a reversing loop, wire an auto-reverser into the power leads for the Turntable itself, thus switching the turntables rails as needed.

well, by the kids atire, looks to be sometime in the 20's. can't seem to see the bottom text for an exact date though.

That's just the tip of the iceburg, now add in the hundreds of combinations fot hem and imagine what kind of bridhes you have then. Best bet for Ink, is if he wants to stay railroadish, is to build a Cantilevered through truss bridge with a suspended Howe or Long Truss middle section. This...

try this as a start, should give you some ideas. http://pghbridges.com/basics.htm

try this out for conversions: http://www.urbaneagle.com/data/RRconvcharts.html

try http://www.plastruct.com/ or http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/

1 ft rise over 100 ft equals 1%