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In England we have the same problem, only it's Wales instead of the durango and silverton. Welsh slate railways seem to dominate the UK NG community in terms of popularity. If you go to a UK NG layout exhibition, you see either hundreds of welsh slate railways with shiny red hunslets buzzing...

Not so, the outside frame design has been around since well before 1900.

White glue will glue everything to everything, so long as it's not shiny/smooth plastic or metal. If it's poreous then it will glue.

I think what you mean is that outside frame produces a lower center of gravity, by giving additional weight lower down. This is more of a traction advantage rather than one of stability. It doesn't widen the base in an effective sense, because the wheels are still the same distance apart. The...

That's interesting, I've never actually had to add dynamic brakes as a detail part. That said I've never scratchbuilt a standard gauge locomotive before... although I plan to. It's just getting round to it, know what I mean? Another interesting thing is the high hood SD24 with the "torpedo...

Good lord, I thought I was the only one who thought like that! Some of my preferences are quite limiting, for instance I can't stand steam locomotives unless they're outside framed. That rules out practically every steam locomotive ever made except for those built for narrow gauge! Good job...

This is sad, but I actually really like the GP9 and GP7 when they've got a dynamic brake unit. I don't know why, but I like to have that overhanging shape on the top of the hood. I like the streamlined shape of it and the way that feature blends into the locomotive as a whole. It seems to change...

This locomotive is outside frame. Note that the connecting rods are connected to CRANKS rather than directly to the wheels themselves. Between the cranks and the wheels is the chassis frame. The frame is the part that sits on the axles, and is often where all the suspension is. This...

No I didn't, and every time someone brings this thread back or mentions the project it reminds me that I REALLY need to get on with it! Since I last posted, I've built my own self contained motor unit, which uses a mashima motor to give power to a single axle. I need to get around to finishing...

That is a whole lot better than what you started out with, I really like what you've done! But please please please; if you're going to look on Walthers and you find something you like, GOOGLE IT and see if anyone else stocks it cheaper, because Walthers are SO horribly expensive.

So it's a work in progress then. Good, keep us updated! And if I were you, I'd leave that inside frame engine in pieces. :D

Come to think of it yeah a reversing loop is just where the track turns back on itself. It'll come to me eventually.

Ah right, there is actually a British name for that, however it escapes me at this time. I think it might be "reversing loop", but I'm not sure. Thanks.

For wood I either use white base and a black wash, or faun base and a black wash. White base produces old grey wood, faun base makes brown wood.

You've got to remember though that the only reason why this railway is so fascinating is because we've nothing to compare it to. There's no other real working steam narrow gauge railways out there like it. I'd be willing to bet that if we could turn back the clock by about 100 years, we'd see...

Well it's outside frame, which means that you score bonus points as far as I'm concerned. You see, I hate inside frame with a passion, LOL. :D I take it that this is HOn3?

Pardon my ignorance but, what in the heck is a "wye"?

Of course you realise that now you have the ability to run trains, your layout will stay the way it is forever! :thumb: My suggestion is to get back to doing scenery before it's too late!

Yeah blue bright, I've seen that before. Bachmann's "Branchline" (models of English prototypes) had that problem on their Class 37 locomotive. Again, looked like a squad car! The best thing to look out for is the MCD rating. By the sounds of it I'd say that the MCD rating on your LEDs is...

Yeah you can. I personally never use bulbs (IE grain of wheat) as they tend to melt plastic things! Two issues however; 1. Ultra bright is probably waaay too bright for a model loco, since the prototype often isn't that bright anyway. (however, different manufacturers have differing ideas on...