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The biggest problem with fast train is the amount of air they push in front of them. If you got two high-speed trains in the opposite direction meeting in a tunnel, you need a special design of the cab to guaranty a nice airflow or it will blew all the windows. Roland www.engineshop.org

Here are a few tips I learn over the last year. - After you milled down the frame and cleaned it, assembly the frame with the plastic spacers and check with a ohm meter if you have no short. Little pieces, almost invisible, can bridge the to frame parts. - make sure that all wires that are...

It looks great. I have painted one of them but the paint did not work out. It turn out that my Aztek airbrush gun has a leak and I had to sent it in for repair/exchange. I am out of commison for the next two or three weeks. Bye the way. Did you paint the railings too and did you use the...

I call my layout semi-freelance. San Francisco Bay Area with the Northwestern Pacific that is almost a Class 1 railroad with a modern harbor hub that actually closed down 60 years ago. There are to many rules in this world and I don't won't to put up even more rules and regulations, especially...

The "real" Bates Motel at Universal is scaled smaller than an actual building as well. So it might be 1/87th. Roland www.engineshop.org

Jake I am using the Digitrax DZ123 with two functions (rear and front lights) since the Kato SD45 is not easy for wiring ditch lights and the decoder is only around $16. If you want four functions, the Digitrax DZ143 is a good choice but cost more than double. Roland

Did you try the UP Historical Society? The were really helpful and fast when I had some questions. http://www.uphs.org/ Roland www.engineshop.org

Jake Sorry, I never put the website link in my reply. Here it is: http://www3.telus.net/HarrisFamily/SD45 Sorry for the confusion. Roland www.engineshop.org

I use this web site for my SD45s. He also has some instructions for other engines as well. The only change I made on my Kato SD45s was in step 7. I made the frame changes he only suggests. Click on the two links in the last line of step 7 to see what I mean. Roland www.engineshop.org

It says split frame, which indicates it will be DCC ready, or at least DCC friendly not like the GP20. Roland www.engineshop.org

I got 3 undecorated AC4400 that I will custom paint in SP colors since I really don't care about the small difference between the UP and SP models. Of course Kato could deceide to issue the SP AC4400 next month that's life. Those anybody have an idea where I can get some really "close"...

I just used Badger-16-62 Modelflex, D&RGW Gold for my Geeps and it is a perfect match for the Microscale decal sheet D&RGW yellow . I have not used the second color (BAD-16-61 D&RGW Orange) for the orange decals. I don't know if you have used Modelflex paint before but I believe it is the best...

I spray my model with with 2, 3 coats of gloss, wait for a day and use Micro Set to place the decal. After everything is dry I use Micro Sol (3, 4 times) even on normal surface. Roland www.engineshop.org

MR doesn't want to upset an industry that places ads in their magazine. I bought a lot of items that were well under the best price advertised on-line. A Lot? Actually 80% of my engines and cars are from e-bay.

I am still looking for a DCC decoder that has only one function. On-Off. It could be used for passenger cars or FREDs. Of course it should be around $4 - 5. Roland

I am using Joe's Gel which works great. It takes about 15 minutes to start working and it doesn't destroy the paint. I used the gel to remove numbers on cars and engines and even removed the Southern Pacific lettering on a LL SD9 to change it to a Northwestern Pacific engine. Here is the link...