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Nice pics everyone. VanBee, I really like the nice flowing curve of your platform. Really nicely done. Here is a photo of a T motor, which was pushed out onto the bridge for a photo shoot. No third rail here! Loco was on its way to a museum.

Jeez, I hope he doesn't wind up hooking one of those ladies!

Heh. I've been in this hobby for, well, basically all my life. Let's say 45 years. You'd think I could answer this question! But no. Originally, and up till recently, I could answer. I powered all turnouts. The last industrial area I built (actually the one just before the last) has...

Both the mainline truss bridge and the girder used for access to a small yard are removable, while the nature of the wood trestle made it a captive. This shot shows the truss in place while the girder is out, and shows the abutments for the girder, made of styrene. This is the only pic...

I then spread my ground cover mix (sawdust, yellow glue, earth colored latex paint and water) over the foam to the contours I desired. I sprinkle sifted dirt and foam on this. The fact that I painted the foam earth colors prior to this was not necassary, I had only done it for an idea of...

Here is how I went about installing a trestle on my layout. This is way more modest than the bridges Doc Wayne built (those footings for the steel trestle on your upper level look like they were lots of fun!) First of all, I made the length of the "gully" to accomodate a Central Valley...

Nice shots everyone! Here is one of a NYC Mohawk, taken fro the top of a cut.

Make sure the painter you use will do the repairs, you should not get it painted till it runs right, having to work on it after it is painted risks chipping the paint.

A lot of brass steam usea a plastic type tube for the driveline, and when it gets old it dries up and takes a set if left without moving for a long period of time. Replacing the tube solves thiat problem. Have you looked at the drive yet?

Nice work! That is really nice. I love the finish you put on it. I mean, I really like the model itself, but the finish just grabbed my eye and, well, it's fantastic. Congrats.

Well, another thing that matters is your kids safety, and yours. That kind of current, even at low voltage, can be dangerous. Must be interesting when you have derailments.

Harold, we may be misunderstanding each other. If your situation was identical to Chads, only one leg of a wye needs to be gapped. You mention having to gap both legs. A wye has three legs, so I wonder if we are speaking about the same thing. There needs to be 4 gaps to gap one leg of a wye...

Chad, your diagram in post 4 is spot on. Some answers here are wrong, probably assuming conditions you don't state. You mark one leg of the wye as a tail track. If that means it is a dead end and used for turning locos, then just gap and wire as you have drawn.

If the loco came with the decoder installed, the instuction book should tell you how to reset the decoder.

The instructions are correct. Do you have both rails gapped at each end of the loop? If so I can not think of what may be wrong, other than possibly a defective reversing unit.

by the way, the new bridge cost 7mill and the 9 homes on the road didn't even want the bridge replaced, just wanted a dead end from the other direction. That figures! I went downstairs to take a pic of the bridge from an angle which shows it better, I never thoiught to make it the focal...

slekjr, I built that bridge from a Campbell kit intended for railroad use. Built it as intended (except for skewing it) except I planked over the top surface. So, where is (was) the Y&O, and how did it get it's name?

Here's one of a Lackawanna geep

Nice to hear, way to go CV!

Thanks Roger, Wayne. Wayne, I had reposted some of my shots awhile back, don't like to keep posting the same scenes. I do hope to have a scene finished soon, and will post lots of pics of it, using the gallery so people will be able to see the pics in a size that looks good.