Search results

Ohm y God..!!! This is getting a little cAMPpy...

It's great to help folks out....but you do have to draw the line somewhere, particularly if your health might be at risk....

Naaww...just hoping I don't get a dent in my armature....

Watts you guys talking about...?? :mrgreen:

Would it be "R2E2"...??? :roll1:

Hi...You don't say how many locos you might be converting to DCC...But if it's more than a couple...it'll be a mighty expensive admission ticket to the club. Why not go DCC all the way..AND still use the MRC pack..?? The Digitrax Zephyr offers the feature of being able to use an existing...

Good to hear it's working..!! Did you check the gauge on those wheels..?? If they are narrow the problem might show itself again, and you'll be grinding those points & stock rails forever....

Does this problem happen only when taking the diverging route, or on the straight section as well..?? I had a similar problem with 3-axle trucks on a brass steamer tender I have. Turned out the wheels were too thick and the turnout too sharp for them. They only shorted when taking the diverging...

Hi...Depends on what type of turnouts you have - electrofrog or insulfrog....If insulfrog (also called "power routing"), yes, power will be routed to the track which is selected by the point rails. If electrofrog, you will need to isolate the two rails coming off the frog, and solder power leads...

That Italian contraption is NOT ugly.....It's a mouthful of BARF.....way beyond ugly......

We'll look forward to seeing more of your stuff...If it's half as good as we've seen...It'll be a real treat..!!

Not being familiar with the ditch lights you intend to install...from the picture they seem to be mounted on the inside of the shell with the lens protruding through it. If it's surface mounted...so much the better, although you will still need a hole to pass the wires through. I still say...Go...

Di...We are all afraid of doing something we've never done before...I say...go for it..!! Just a bit of advice of something I learned along the way..DON'T CUT IT TO THE FINAL SIZE REQUIRED. Cut the opening a little undersized and use a small flat jeweler's file to open them up to the right...

561 pieces...???!!! I'd loose my hold on reality if I were to do that....:eek: I love the different shades of staining on that planking...and the whole structure is just AWESOME.... A #1....:thumb:

That Zamac disease is kinda' funny....The little 0-4-0 has just fallen apart...A 4-6-2 - same make, same purchase date, is holding up....Go figure....

Steamers..??...A Y6...It's so monstrous...it's beautiful..!! Diesel...F3's...Beautifully proportioned with just the right dose of "streamlining"....

Doc...I'm dismayed..!! :sad::sad: To think that beautiful railroad is gone just didn't make my day. Sorry to see it go (went...). As for your next project....go to it, and keep us posted....:thumb:

Hi...Generally twin coil switch machines should have four wires coming from the two coils (2 per coil). You should join together one wire from each coil, giving you a total of 3 wires to hook up to. The joined wires will be connected to one of the two wires coming from the power pack. The other...

Tomkat...Nice layout..!! :thumb: What model/make is that green truck with the tarp on it..?? I want one..!!! :eek: And the Buick, Caddy, Thunderbird.....:mrgreen:

Diburning..is right. It's CV2. I mis-read my CV card....:cry: